I'm not sure it matters - - what is more important is both surfaces it seals against are perfect.
I never liked copper washers on oil plugs.
They are the hardest to keep from weeping.
The side with the cutout half circle (shown in the picture) goes against the drain plug. It will screw onto the plug. They work fine, but a torque wrench will make sure it crushes properly. Nissan uses this type of washer.
What if you're the kind of person that's really bad at making decisions ? Especially those 50/50 decisions like this drain plug washer. It's nice when somebody can make that decision for you.
The side with the cutout half circle (shown in the picture) goes against the drain plug. It will screw onto the plug. They work fine, but a torque wrench will make sure it crushes properly. Nissan uses this type of washer.
^^This^^ I just replaced one on my Frontier. I reused the one that came on it for the last three OCIs. I didn't think it mattered, but it only went on completely one way. The notched side goes toward the plug. It was a bear to get off the old one too. I would go a different route but it came with the OEM Nissan filter.
Sound like a Nissan washer, I have to snip the thing off with cutters when doing an OC; tried the rotate off and that didn't happen. You don't need a torque wrench to put a drain plug on with a new soft metal crush washer - just tighten until the load spikes and then stop. The washer does the sealing. Same thing with plugs and why you should use new washers on plugs if you pull them.
I think my 07 Chevy Silverado Vortec V6 had a rubber insert on the flange of the drain plug. No washer per se. Nice!
Cast pan.
I think the Honda 1.5 was this way too, but I cant really say.
I use these every time I change the oil on a Nissan. the side with the "cutout" goes towards the plug, but I've used it either way with no leaks. I always torque Nissan plugs to 25 ft lbs, but they give you a range of 22 to 29 ft lbs