Oil Newby - Looking for help deciding if this oil is good for making my GDI engine last

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Nov 2, 2020
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Quick back story: Bought a Kia Telluride which uses an Atkinson Cycle 3.8L V6. Ive got experience working on older cars (have a 1971 BMW 2002) and am not afraid to change my own oil. What I am afraid of is new GDI engines and all the scary things I hear on the internet about carbon build up...

My goal is to have this engine last as long as possible. That being said, I bought some Kirkland 5w-30 as it seems like its a good oil for what i need but im hoping you bright folks on this forum can help me answer two questions below.

Firstly, here is what Kia says I should use:
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1. I bought this Kirkland oil, does it conform to the requirements Kia is requiring? ( I see the "For Gasoline Engines" label but no mention of an ACEA A5 rating):
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2. Is this an oil I can reliably use for a GDI engine or should I fork out more cash for oils that are marketed for GDI engines (like this one from Castrol which has a ACEA A5 rating:)
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Thank you in advance!
 

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I would base a lot of your oci time on your driving length. GDI engines can put some fuel in the oil if you really short trip in cold weather.
I'm going way heavier in winter on my mazda , due to fuel dilution.

M1 0w-30 in summer
M1 0w-40 in winter

I won't go more than 2k in the winter due to short trips and fuel dilution.
 
I would base a lot of your oci time on your driving length. GDI engines can put some fuel in the oil if you really short trip in cold weather.
I'm going way heavier in winter on my mazda , due to fuel dilution.

M1 0w-30 in summer
M1 0w-40 in winter

I won't go more than 2k in the winter due to short trips and fuel dilution.

Sorry, whats OCI time?

I live in Northern California (San Francisco Bay Area) so the winters here are mild. However, we have some family up in Southern Oregon and plan a trip up every few months.
 
dexos rated and i also see the sp rating, should have no issues with the kirkland oil.
@hemitom does the lack of a ACEA rating still mean this oil meets that requirement? As a newby, I think of it as "no mention of a rating, this doesn't meet the requirement" (I know that's probably wrong)
 
Sorry, whats OCI time?

I live in Northern California (San Francisco Bay Area) so the winters here are mild. However, we have some family up in Southern Oregon and plan a trip up every few months.

Perhaps after the first oil change, run the oil for the number of miles you feel comfortable, and after a typical drive, take a sample and send it in for oil analysis. That will give you and idea how long or short to run the oil.

Winter here for me is mild. rarely down below 15f. But on short trips the mazda puts fuel in the oil. Confirmed it with oil analysis when i saw the oil level going up on the dipstick.
 
@hemitom does the lack of a ACEA rating still mean this oil meets that requirement? As a newby, I think of it as "no mention of a rating, this doesn't meet the requirement" (I know that's probably wrong)
ACEA is a european spec which i think is for extended drain interval.
Dexos developed for general motors and GDI engines and to help with LSPI events in these engines . (in a nutshell)
 
The owners manual gives the recommended oil specs, pick any major brand oil that meets the specs ,

ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

Any SN+ or better SP and the DEXOs as mentioned will meet the A5 duty.
 
The owners manual gives the recommended oil specs, pick any major brand oil that meets the specs ,

ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

Any SN+ or better SP and the DEXOs as mentioned will meet the A5 duty.
Thanks @wpod however, does that mean I should or shouldn't use the Kirkland oil which doesn't state it's ACEA?

Thanks in advance
 
Do an oil analysis at 3500 if all checks out push it to 5k intervals then do another analysis if you get a clean report stick with the 5k.

Northern Cali you can get away with 5 or 10w30.
 
Another Kia owner here (see sig).

FWIW, I've been using 5w30 Valvoline Advanced Synthetic (VAS for short) in my 2020 Soul with good results. Hyundai/Kia prefer you use their oil filter (well made, inexpensive, and available online), so I do, just to adhere to their warranty requirements. I probably don't legally have to, but that's just my preference, and it's a good quality filter generally available for around $6 -- $8.

Hope this helps a bit. Congrats on the new wheels -- I hear lots of good things about the Telluride. Enjoy.
 
Another Kia owner here (see sig).

FWIW, I've been using 5w30 Valvoline Advanced Synthetic (VAS for short) in my 2020 Soul with good results. Hyundai/Kia prefer you use their oil filter (well made, inexpensive, and available online), so I do, just to adhere to their warranty requirements. I probably don't legally have to, but that's just my preference, and it's a good quality filter generally available for around $6 -- $8.

Hope this helps a bit. Congrats on the new wheels -- I hear lots of good things about the Telluride. Enjoy.
@Hoot_r thanks so much for the reply. As far as following their warranty requirements, what does that entail? Just using their filter and recommend oil?
 
I apologize if I missed it, but how is the car driven? Lots of freeway? City driving? Short trips? It might give some of us better info to work with.

If it’s mostly freeway, pretty much synthetic rated SP will do. If there is a lot of stop and go traffic I like the advanced synthetic option.....
 
@Hoot_r thanks so much for the reply. As far as following their warranty requirements, what does that entail? Just using their filter and recommend oil?
As I understand it, the letter of the law used to be to maintain a paper trail on all work done to the vehicle, just in case warranty claims were ever pursued. I don't know if this is still the case; others may have better/more current information.

At any rate, I do use their filter, not just because of warranty concerns, but because it's a darn good filter, made in Korea by Mann+Hummel. At an average over-the-counter price of between $6-$8, there's no real reason not to, in my opinion. I can sometimes find them in lots of three via a dealership in AZ through eBay for less than $19 shipped.
 
I apologize if I missed it, but how is the car driven? Lots of freeway? City driving? Short trips? It might give some of us better info to work with.

If it’s mostly freeway, pretty much synthetic rated SP will do. If there is a lot of stop and go traffic I like the advanced synthetic option.....
Yeah thanks for asking, when commuting to work, it's gonna be mostly freeway with some street traffic to get onto/from the freeway to my destination. Is there additives I should see about adding if I do start driving more in the street but I have Kirkland oil in there?
 
As I understand it, the letter of the law used to be to maintain a paper trail on all work done to the vehicle, just in case warranty claims were ever pursued. I don't know if this is still the case; others may have better/more current information.

At any rate, I do use their filter, not just because of warranty concerns, but because it's a darn good filter, made in Korea by Mann+Hummel. At an average over-the-counter price of between $6-$8, there's no real reason not to, in my opinion. I can sometimes find them in lots of three via a dealership in AZ through eBay for less than $19 shipped.
Thanks! I appreciate the input.
 
Is this particular Kia engine known to carbon up the intake valves?

If it's an engine known to load the engine oil with soot and/or fuel, I'd try for a low NOAC oil and not extend drain interval too far.
 
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