Oil for New Nissan Note 1.6L

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite

The FIT is Mexican made and DI now for 2015. No more Japanese Honda imported in the US (discounting acura). I don't like small bore and silly-long stroke under 2 litre engines - the silly stroke must be a smog thing.
I wish I fit in the base Impreza 5 door. Best deal out there. I just wasn't comfortable

Small bore plus large stroke is good for low end torque and good MPG in many cases.

Passing smog doesn't require a long stroke and small bore engine, the GM LS series and current Hemi are oversquare and do fine.

 

[fdcg27]

Outside of US designs and those that are horizontally opposed, most of the world's engines are undersquare and have been so for many decades, including those of the eight Hondas we've owned as well as my old BMW.
There's nothing magical about oversquare vs undersquare engines.
The junk Honda engines we've had as well as my junk BMW engine have all had power peaks of around 6K and all seemed and seem to love the redline.
This is a silly and uninformed argument for Arco to have made.

 

[jrustles]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Ahh yes. The highly regarded Heated Spoon Test for Additive Loss. How could I have missed that.

Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I had no idea the oils on that list would lose additives.

But I do ;-) Do simplest test: take a spoon that you don't need anymore, take a lighter and heat oil from this list. You'll see something like this (left is OK, right is not):

 

[CELICA_XX]

The spoon tests are a joke.

Here is my favorite quote from timeau !!!

Originally Posted By: timeau
if you press on a pedal and drive hard thermostat is opened and engine gets colder.

Hard driving - less temperature

 

[RF Overlord]

I would also think the spoon test is irrelevant since there's no flow, as there would be inside an engine/turbo/etc.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
The spoon tests are a joke.

Here is my favorite quote from timeau !!!

Originally Posted By: timeau
if you press on a pedal and drive hard thermostat is opened and engine gets colder.

Hard driving - less temperature

That was mine as well. LOL

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Outside of US designs and those that are horizontally opposed, most of the world's engines are undersquare and have been so for many decades, including those of the eight Hondas we've owned as well as my old BMW.
There's nothing magical about oversquare vs undersquare engines.
The junk Honda engines we've had as well as my junk BMW engine have all had power peaks of around 6K and all seemed and seem to love the redline.
This is a silly and uninformed argument for Arco to have made.
The severe undersquare engines tend to run rougher and noisier in the examples Ive owned. All else equal, a head will flow better with a larger bore as the cyl walls and valve spacing inghibit flow when near a flow obstacle - even if it is another vales outflow.
Ive only owned 3 Hondas and it is true that I "hammer" the car often off the light and don't expect to get 50K miles out of them before the transaxle starts to give way. I was surprised though, that the Fit started showing symptoms early on of a twisted input shaft (clutch sticking unengaged then releasing). I can only blame myself on the engine loosing power after some trying MoS2 additive (dangers of BITOG forum influence when my logic really suggested caution)- the 1.5 Honda was running as designed before the MoS2 - and never quite came back to life after dumping that mixture.
I am professionally qualified to speak about engine design and autos in general being a Mechanical Engineer and an enthusiast for over 40 years and having owned over 65 cars.

 

[Lex94]

It will be interesting to know how your Forester holds up under your severe beatings.....

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I don't drive the forester. And I didnt drive the previous two - The 2009 EJ gave up the ghost at 58K. We have bad gasoline up here then there'sthe factory engine issues constantly.

The new gen is a factor of 10 improved over the last gen. and probably the best overall value in a compact/ mid size SUV out there. Wife is averaging 32mpg 50/50 rural S&G/interstate. Amazing!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

So back to the head subject:

What oil for 1st OCI (after accumulating ~3K miles)

QSGB 5w30

ACDelco Dexos1

or
Pennzoil Brass bottle SS dexos1

I suppose its a toss up.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite

The FIT is Mexican made and DI now for 2015. No more Japanese Honda imported in the US (discounting acura). I don't like small bore and silly-long stroke under 2 litre engines - the silly stroke must be a smog thing.
I wish I fit in the base Impreza 5 door. Best deal out there. I just wasn't comfortable

Small bore plus large stroke is good for low end torque and good MPG in many cases.

Passing smog doesn't require a long stroke and small bore engine, the GM LS series and current Hemi are oversquare and do fine.
I said SILLY long stroke - like the Honda having a longer stroke than a SB chevy 350 V8 but a bore in the high 2in. range. Now That is silly and, btw, this engine is known by owners to be very rough and noisy and aurally challenging.

 

[fdcg27]

I really doubt that a Fit has enough torque or enough traction to damage a pilot shaft.
More likely you had premature wear to either the throwout bearing or the pilot bearing, if the car had such a thing, and every Honda that I've owned and worked on didn't. This might be the result of engaging first at rest and using the clutch rather than using neutral.
I'm an accountant and I've owned a bunch of cars over the past forty years.
I drive pretty spiritedly when the mood strikes and drove very hard in my youth.
I've never broken a car through abusive driving, but then I have a level of mechanical savvy and sympathy that might exceed yours, especially the sympathy part.
I will drive a car hard, but I won't beat on it.
The pity is that as hard as you thrash something like a Fit or your current Note, I don't think we own a single car out of six that would lose to either should I care to engage in a stoplight grand prix with you and our two Subarus would make either FWD car look silly in the wet.
If you really want to go fast, why not buy a track toy and use the street cars as they're intended?
Cheaper and safer for you as well as being safer for everyone sharing the road with you.
How much money have you spent on appliance cars you've thrashed to death over the years?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Good suggestion. I was hoping the lowish power would save the drivetrain. I don't drop the clutch - I usually feather it in fast about 3500 rpm.

 

[CELICA_XX]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Good suggestion. I was hoping the lowish power would save the drivetrain. I don't drop the clutch - I usually feather it in fast about 3500 rpm.


3500 RPM ???

You rev up to 3500 and feather out the clutch ??

WAY too high.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

3500 When Im "hammering" it off a stop light to accelerate quickly.Sometimes higher - but not above 5grand - even when Im REALLT tiffed.
Normal driving clutch engagement is just off-idle, under 1500.

I think I got this "driving" and street racing "thing" figured out after 40+ years