Oil for New engine. COULD NOT MAKE THIS UP. All comments welcome

4WD

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17,479
Location
Texas
Seems this thread drew some assumptions because the OP (TS) did not ask clear questions
Hopefully the TS will add some comments …
 
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769
I believe the OP meant to post this:

Ok Folks I have rebuilt more than a few engines over the years. This is what I was taught: As part of the rebuild you hone the cylinder walls until you have a crosshatch pattern. That indicates they are somewhat rough. Then you thoroughly clean and flush the to remove all the grit your honing stone left. Reinstall the the pistons making sure the ring gaps are not line up. Fill the engine with a low to medium grade oil or one that is made for engine break-lin. Crank the engine until you get oil flowing at the topend to the valves. Starter up, idle for a while. Start driving it easy then up to normal driving for a few 100 miles, up to 500 if yu want. Change oil and filter to a good grade. Drive 1000-1500 Then change to synthetic if you choose. I TIRED to be smart one time: Put in a quart of Synthetic with the cheap stuff for startup. I never got the rings to seal, I was putting in a quart ever 100-150 miles. At 600miles we tore the engine down, rehoned and started over without the synthetic. It worked that time, added 1 qt during 500 mile breakin. From my experience No Synthetic for breakin of an engine. Please tell me how you seat the rings to the engine bore using a synthetic oil. You gotta have some wear between the rings and bore.


To which I would ask: “How do the millions of cars that are delivered from the factory with synthetic oil, every year, break in their engines?”

E.g. my Tundra, which was delivered with a synthetic 0w20, and which consumes zero oil. It’s had only synthetic it’s whole life. Broke in just fine. There are millions of cars every year just like it. They don’t have a problem. Why should this crate engine?

The engines are broken in before the are installed in new vehicles. They aren't even manufactured in the same plant most of the time. At the end of the break-in process they are drained and filled with whatever the factory fill is. That's what when you look at an UOA for factory fill the oils look very ordinary. Yep, it's that simple.
 
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596
Location
Jupiter, FL
Maybe what he is getting at is using an off the shelf Pennzoil high detergent oil will be too aggressive in "cleaning" power not allowing a "tribu-film" to quickly grow on the fresh new metals of the engine. Dnewton I believe was talking about something similar with new oil with fresh detergents removing a coating from an engine resulting in a little boost of wear. He recommend to run longer OCI's closer to 15K miles because testing showed wear begins to taper off the longer the OCI, of course to a point.. You would have to find that sweet spot for your situation. Either way, I hope my point was understood.
 
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