I believe the OP meant to post this:
Ok Folks I have rebuilt more than a few engines over the years. This is what I was taught: As part of the rebuild you hone the cylinder walls until you have a crosshatch pattern. That indicates they are somewhat rough. Then you thoroughly clean and flush the to remove all the grit your honing stone left. Reinstall the the pistons making sure the ring gaps are not line up. Fill the engine with a low to medium grade oil or one that is made for engine break-lin. Crank the engine until you get oil flowing at the topend to the valves. Starter up, idle for a while. Start driving it easy then up to normal driving for a few 100 miles, up to 500 if yu want. Change oil and filter to a good grade. Drive 1000-1500 Then change to synthetic if you choose. I TIRED to be smart one time: Put in a quart of Synthetic with the cheap stuff for startup. I never got the rings to seal, I was putting in a quart ever 100-150 miles. At 600miles we tore the engine down, rehoned and started over without the synthetic. It worked that time, added 1 qt during 500 mile breakin. From my experience No Synthetic for breakin of an engine. Please tell me how you seat the rings to the engine bore using a synthetic oil. You gotta have some wear between the rings and bore.
To which I would ask: “How do the millions of cars that are delivered from the factory with synthetic oil, every year, break in their engines?”
E.g. my Tundra, which was delivered with a synthetic 0w20, and which consumes zero oil. It’s had only synthetic it’s whole life. Broke in just fine. There are millions of cars every year just like it. They don’t have a problem. Why should this crate engine?
Ok Folks I have rebuilt more than a few engines over the years. This is what I was taught: As part of the rebuild you hone the cylinder walls until you have a crosshatch pattern. That indicates they are somewhat rough. Then you thoroughly clean and flush the to remove all the grit your honing stone left. Reinstall the the pistons making sure the ring gaps are not line up. Fill the engine with a low to medium grade oil or one that is made for engine break-lin. Crank the engine until you get oil flowing at the topend to the valves. Starter up, idle for a while. Start driving it easy then up to normal driving for a few 100 miles, up to 500 if yu want. Change oil and filter to a good grade. Drive 1000-1500 Then change to synthetic if you choose. I TIRED to be smart one time: Put in a quart of Synthetic with the cheap stuff for startup. I never got the rings to seal, I was putting in a quart ever 100-150 miles. At 600miles we tore the engine down, rehoned and started over without the synthetic. It worked that time, added 1 qt during 500 mile breakin. From my experience No Synthetic for breakin of an engine. Please tell me how you seat the rings to the engine bore using a synthetic oil. You gotta have some wear between the rings and bore.
To which I would ask: “How do the millions of cars that are delivered from the factory with synthetic oil, every year, break in their engines?”
E.g. my Tundra, which was delivered with a synthetic 0w20, and which consumes zero oil. It’s had only synthetic it’s whole life. Broke in just fine. There are millions of cars every year just like it. They don’t have a problem. Why should this crate engine?
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