Oil for my tired and scored 4.0 (pics inside)

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I decied to swap a head from my 87 cherokee to a High Output head from a 93, got the head off only to find this Heres what was on the valves of the old head before it came off javascript:void(0) This I belive was due to either penziol or some sort of detergant the previous owner may have put in. It scared the [censored] out of me to think what the bottom end might look like if this is what was smuthering the rockers and springs. My oil pressure shoots straight to 80 upon start-up and takes a couple minutes to get below 60. Idles at 40 and cruises at 45-50 on the freeway going 65mph. The top end was rebuilt and the bottom was left alone as I did not have the capitol to complete the rebuild. I am hoping to run this rig for another 25-35,000 miles before I buid a stroker. Its not my dd, right now it acts only as a trail rig so the milage it does see is harsh. It is not trailered so the occasional road trip is necessary to get to a desired spot. As you can see i am in fear of loosing compression soon in the first few cylinders (not all of them were scored) I'm guessing I should stick to the thicker weights to keep it from flowing past the rings but what would you folks suggest?
 
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"This I belive was due to either penziol or some sort of detergant the previous owner may have put in" i think it was the lack of what the previous owner put in. doesn't look like did much maintenance
 
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I used Pennzoil in the past and it put this stain on the rockers just like this engine. I don't think it does any harm. I never used it again however.
 
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What in G0D's name does this have to do with Pennzoil? ("penziol")
Penzoil is paraffin base, its liquid wax
NOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo it's nooooooooooooooooottttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!! Do you even know if the previous owner use this oil?
 
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Bottom ends are very stout on these engines. Very hard to take out, even when neglected. Do a double dose of Auto-Rx to clean stuff up/out. I'd probably buy a few cheap filters for the cleaning phase. That residue/sludge/build up is just from too many miles and not enough oil changes. Probably a diet too heavy in 5w-30 when 10w-30 should have been used. You're probably (actually, I'd say assuredly) going to have some blow-by management issues. There are a few techniques that are quite effective at keeping it tidy above the throttle plates (or your air cleaner housing dry). You'll be going heavy most likely. We don't know your location ..hence your climate is a mystery . I would expect more blow-by to be apparent due to (probably) better sealing valves on the alternate head. Usually engines decay as a unit. Sometimes when you redo the head ..you end up sending the combustion process out the only available door (the rings). Kinda like when one of two sloppy U-joints takes a [censored]. You replace it...now the other lame one takes up all the shock. If your power level is decent enough, then it just comes down to consumption and blow-by management. Not a biggie if it performs as you desire and you're not changing plugs every 100 miles.
 

Mike_Pennock

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Looks like coolant(water) got in....
I have once sucked in some water from a creek crossing I couldn't avoid but it was very little and drained alomst immediatly redrained and drained again.
 

Mike_Pennock

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Spot-on with the blow-by fine sir. I have done everything I should have done to fix this. I cleaned bottom end of valve cover took off both chambers attatched to the valve comer cleaned and unplugged, put a 125psi shot of air through the back tube going to the intake manifold and replace the front one with this And I still have blow-by No need for original system as I have eliminated the egr and replaced the air box with a conical filter.
 
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Looks like coolant(water) got in....
I have once sucked in some water from a creek crossing I couldn't avoid but it was very little and drained alomst immediatly redrained and drained again.
it looks like my valve covers when my LIM gasket went,that yellowesh milky [censored]..
 
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Myth #1 Paraffinic oils cause engine sludge. Oils from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge. Paraffin base stocks cause sludge. "x" Brand of motor oil causes sludge, varnish and/or engine deposits. “Paraffinic” motor oils cause wax-like deposits on the underside of the oil fill cap. Fact There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending its engine oil products. Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Most people relate the word paraffin to candle wax. This is a correct association, BUT one of the most incorrect and widely circulated misconceptions about sludge is that it forms more easily in paraffin-based motor oils. This couldn't be further from the truth. All major motor oils, in fact, are formulated using a paraffin-based crude oil. Naphthenic-based crude oils are actually more likely to form sludge in an engine than oils formulated with paraffin-based crude oils. This is due to the higher breakdown resistance of paraffin-based crude oils.
 

Mike_Pennock

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Oops forgot to mention I'm in california so my winter might get down to the high 30's. Right now its about 82 out and I'm at 500feet ubove sea level but often take it up into the 8-10,000 foot range. She still has plenty of power. Any suggestions on oil weight?
 
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MarkC As far as oil weight, a 5w-xx should be fine for you. But if you are concerned, i see no harm in going with a 0w-xx. I don't know what to recommend for the second number as i'm not familiar with the Jeep engines, but i believe a lot of people say they like heavier weights like 40's. There are many excellent 5w-40's on the market that would probably work great.
 
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Look at the crud around the piston in the first pic. And not to mention you sucked in water and no telling what else into your engine! And what's that in the second pic? It looks to be RTV. And the PENNZOIL thing that gets brought up every week. ABSOLUTLEY no current rated oil will cause sludge if changed on time every time, NONE PERIOD. .
 
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