Oil for my new car?

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I am buying a 2003 Accord LX Coupe with M/T this weekend. I was wondering what some of you "oil gurus" would recommend for my regimen. I am pretty sure that 5W-20 will be recommended but I plan on using either 5W-30 or 10W-30. I have both Chevron Supreme dino and Schaeffers Supreme 7000 10W-30 on the shelf. I have been using SuperTech filters and MAY continue to use them pending results of my first couple of oil analysis....thinking that if I am able to extend oil drain intervals I may want to change filters.

My thinking (which is dangerous and very limited in knowledge) is to change to Schaeffers at 3K, change again at 8k, change again at 13k and run an analysis each oil change until I determine the optimum extended drain for my engine.

I would appreciate any comments or suggestions on this regimen. I really want to treat this car as if I plan to keep it forever. Thanks.
 
Don't change the Honda factory fill until at least 5,000 miles because they use a special break-in oil with a lot (1,000 ppm) of moly.

Thereafter I'd run any good synth oil for the longest duration allowed by Honda (7,500 miles?) while under warranty. Any good synth oil should last for 7,500 miles easily. No real need to do analyses at this point unless you're really curious.

Then when you're out of warranty, and if want to extend your drain intervals beyond 7,500 mi, do this with the help of oil analysis.

Jason
 
I've also got an '03 Accord i-4, and will be doing its first change soon, probably at around 4000 mi. I have a free oil change coupon from the dealer that expires before I'll hit 5000, so I'll push it as far as I can, based on their recommendation of leaving the factory fluid in for 5000.

Honda does recommend 5w-20. I'm going to stick with it when I start doing my own changes. The current plan is to use an oversized filter and probably Pennzoil 5w-20 (it's gotten good comments here). I also plan on 3000 mile intervals, regardless of what Honda says (they recommend 5000 mi intervals for severe conditions and 10000 mi intervals under normal conditions!).

Personally, if I were to consider going the synthetic route with this car, I'd extend my drain intervals to 5000-6000 miles, no more. That's just me, maybe my notions are flawed, but I just feel better with fresh fluid in the car, regardless of its quality.

Good luck!
 
5w20..... **** , that scares me, but maybe that is just my old way of thinking. And I am only 36. I have heard good things also about Motorcraft's 5w20 part synthetic. ONly about $1.77 a qt at walmart. Were using this in the new police fords...

**** well believe that if we could keep our car and take it home, I would be using 15w50 Mobil 1. But since we get new cars 1 a year and they rotate, there is no sence.
 
timzak - what oversized filter do you plan to use. I have considered using one myself but the **** filters are such a pain in the *** to get to it pisses me off every time I change one. It is one of the few things about Honda's in general that I don't like.
 
Got the 02 Accord V6 and went through the same dilema or craziness. Leave Honda oil in for a while. I went with Pennz. because they were about the only ones, at that time, with 5W-20. This past year I got switched to Quaker State 5W-20 without my knowledge. Was going to switch back at next change but Quaker State sent me a warranty card, with my VIN and serial number on it giving me a 250K/10 year warranty for oil related engine failures. I thought that was pretty cool but others on this post thought it was all hype and BS, see my older post on "Quaker State and Warranty." This weekend, went to Pennz. 5W-30, based on the opinons of some of the brethrens here that a 5w-20 is really thin and they are not comfortable with that. Tend to agree with them. However, I didn't tell my wife and she claims the engine "feels" different and she knows nada about cars or engines except to put gas in them. I may jump back to 5W-20. I did take a sample of the Quaker State 5W-20 that I just drained and mailed it off yesterday, so hopefully by next week I can post results.
The Motorcraft has no moly in it. Would not recommend it. Castrol GTX (dino) 5W-20 has done pretty good in UAO's. This what I'd pick:
1. Pennz. 5W-20
2. Castrol 5W-20
3. Mobil 0W-20 for synthetics.
 
quote:

Originally posted by OutlawTitan:
timzak - what oversized filter do you plan to use. I have considered using one myself but the **** filters are such a pain in the *** to get to it pisses me off every time I change one. It is one of the few things about Honda's in general that I don't like.

There seem to be doubts if any oversize filters will have enough clearance to go in. But, I have three possibilities: PH2849A, PH3593A, PH3985. They all have the correct thread and hole size and same bypass settings, just have to see if they can be shoehorned in between all the clutter. I haven't had a chance yet to check it out.
 
I thought the 3593A was the same size as the OEM filter. I have been using the SuperTech 2808 filters that I understand were replaced with the 3593A filter to consolidate some of their different sizes.
 
quote:

Originally posted by OutlawTitan:
I thought the 3593A was the same size as the OEM filter. I have been using the SuperTech 2808 filters that I understand were replaced with the 3593A filter to consolidate some of their different sizes.

I use the 3593A on another car, and when I got under the Accord, it was definitely a smaller-looking filter than the 3593A. Looking it up, it appears to be a 7317. This is the factory Honda filter.

Let me know if you end up trying any oversize and if they work. I won't be doing my own oil change for awhile since the dealer is paying for the first change.
 
There is no way I'd leave factory fill in for 5000 miles!!!. Get it out of there at 500-1000 miles but refill with the same break in oil and go to 5000 miles or so.

New engines have contaminants from the manufacturing process (ie shavings, metal dust, dirt, leftover nuts and bolts!!) that should be drained within the first 500-1000 miles.


quote:

Originally posted by quadrun1:
Don't change the Honda factory fill until at least 5,000 miles because they use a special break-in oil with a lot (1,000 ppm) of moly.

Thereafter I'd run any good synth oil for the longest duration allowed by Honda (7,500 miles?) while under warranty. Any good synth oil should last for 7,500 miles easily. No real need to do analyses at this point unless you're really curious.

Then when you're out of warranty, and if want to extend your drain intervals beyond 7,500 mi, do this with the help of oil analysis.

Jason


 
quote:

Originally posted by davefr:
There is no way I'd leave factory fill in for 5000 miles!!!

Lots of Honda people would disagree with you, as would many from the VW TDi camp.

And non-"M" BMWs? Thousands and thousands of non-"M" BMWs get their first oil change at 15,000 (!) miles, running a group III fake synthetic.

Besides, you ain't gonna find that break-in oil anywhere.

Listen to the people who built the car... one poor fellow on this board thought he was doing his Honda a favor by changing out the oil filter early with an Amsoil part--turned out to be a mistake!

Now, some cars need special attention, like Toyota sludge monsters, and BMW M3s... but for the vast majority of cars these days, a normal interval for the first oil change is what's called for.
 
quote:

Originally posted by quadrun1:

quote:

Originally posted by davefr:
There is no way I'd leave factory fill in for 5000 miles!!!

Lots of Honda people would disagree with you, as would many from the VW TDi camp.


I bought a 2000 Honda Civic Si new in June of 2000. Honda does not specify any special break in or first oil change procedure. You just change it at the interval you normally would. Since I drive 50 miles each way to work, I am on the NORMAL schedule. I changed the oil and filter at 7,500 miles. Car now has 60,000 miles on it. It all worked out fine. Honda has all kinds of strange maintenance requirements, so I have no doubt if there was a benefit to changing it a 3,000, 4,000 or 5,000, they would tell you to do that.

I don't know where these ideas come from. Oil wives tales...but how many old wives change the oil? Not mine!
 
quote:

Originally posted by quadrun1:
Originally posted by davefr:
There is no way I'd leave factory fill in for 5000 miles!!!

Lots of Honda people would disagree with you, as would many from the VW TDi camp.

And non-"M" BMWs? Thousands and thousands of non-"M" BMWs get their first oil change at 15,000 (!) miles, running a group III fake synthetic.

Besides, you ain't gonna find that break-in oil anywhere.

"Listen to the people who built the car... one poor fellow on this board thought he was doing his Honda a favor by changing out the oil filter early with an Amsoil part--turned out to be a mistake!"


"Now, some cars need special attention, like Toyota sludge monsters, and BMW M3s... but for the vast majority of cars these days, a normal interval for the first oil change is what's called for.
[/QUOTE"]"


First of all was the filter the mistake or the gentleman changing the oil? If he changed his dino oil at 5000 miles and the filter did the same thing would that still be a mistake?
dunno.gif


Whats with the "toyota sludge monster"? If you are talking about a specific year model complete your sentence. I have 2 toyotas and they are great! I have had toyotas for over 18 years and have been pleased. As long as you maintain your vehicles they will last.

[ June 12, 2003, 10:53 PM: Message edited by: Amkeer ]
 
Sorry, I don't know the exact years; do a search for "Toyota sludge" either on this board or on Google, and you'll find lots of info. It involves mainly the Toyota/Lexus 3.0L V6 and some of the four bangers.
 
Quadrun,

No need to apologize. I have the 1995 4-Runner with the 3.0 V6 and it is by no means a sludge monster.

I have seen other vehicles with sludge that don't have the Toyota emblem on them. I have yet to see a Toyota motor with sludge "personally". I see people on this site worried because of the term "sludge monster" and they are running additives in there oil because of this label. I think its rediculous and wasteful!
mad.gif
People should not run beta additives or cleaners in there nearly new $20000.00 vehicles!
 
A correction is in order sorry!
shocked.gif

The gentleman changed his filter only and not the oil! Sorry again!

As a side note there is synthetic run from the factory in Corvettes and some other vehicles. Most manufacturers don't run special break in oils.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Amkeer:
Quadrun,

No need to apologize. I have the 1995 4-Runner with the 3.0 V6 and it is by no means a sludge monster.

I have seen other vehicles with sludge that don't have the Toyota emblem on them. I have yet to see a Toyota motor with sludge "personally". I see people on this site worried because of the term "sludge monster" and they are running additives in there oil because of this label. I think its rediculous and wasteful!
mad.gif
People should not run beta additives or cleaners in there nearly new $20000.00 vehicles!


From your tone, I can tell that you do not believe there is a sludge problem with certain Toyota engines. Let me tell you it is quite real and well documented. I think there is even something on Toyota's web site about it.

Dodge Durango also has sludge problems. A woman who sits next to me at work said there was a recall on hers to put some kind of device inside the oil fill cap to collect moisture.
 
I appreciate everyone's opinion. If the new owner's manual says change the oil every 10K regular and 5K severe, then I am going to change at 5K and put in Schaeffers Supreme 7000 5W-30, wait another 5K and change again. After 15K and two changes with Schaeffers I will run an analysis and have Terry interpret what is happening to help me determine what filter might be best and what my drain interval should be. At this point of my knowledge level I don't think that there is any more that I can do unless I run an analysis after each oil change.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Amkeer:
Quadrun,

No need to apologize. I have the 1995 4-Runner with the 3.0 V6 and it is by no means a sludge monster.


If I'm not mistaken, the 4Runner is not included. It's certain Camry models and ES300s... do a search, lots of info out there about this.
 
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