Oil for my new car?

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quote:

Originally posted by OutlawTitan:
I appreciate everyone's opinion. If the new owner's manual says change the oil every 10K regular and 5K severe, then I am going to change at 5K and put in Schaeffers Supreme 7000 5W-30, wait another 5K and change again.
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Sounds good. Schaeffers should go 5K easily!

Enjoy your new car...

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quote:

Originally posted by quadrun1:
Don't change the Honda factory fill until at least 5,000 miles because they use a special break-in oil with a lot (1,000 ppm) of moly.

Show us some PROOF. No one outside of Honda really has a clue where the moly's coming from. All we know from UOAs is that there's lots of moly draining out with Honda's initial fill oil, but it could just as easily be sourced from the slathered-on assembly lube.
 
I can't help myself, I just have to stir the pot a little. In warm weather I use a CF-2 SAE30 (max SA 1.0) in everything that specifies a xxW30 or lighter weight engine oil. Last month I used up over a pail of it in the following vehicles: 00 2.5 24 valve Cougar, 03 Focus, 95 3.8 Windstar, 96 3.0 Taurus, 94 Intrepid 3.3, 77 Chev PU 350. As I mentioned before, in the USA I'd look at Mobil's 1330 or the stuff BITOG sells, in Canada P-C Duron 30. Unless an engine has a highly loaded valve train, I can't see the purpose of using boundary additives like moly or bariumSulf. Moly oil additive for Honda break-in? Somebody else will have to explain the logic behind that, I'm just a railroad junkie.
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Who wants an oil sample from the Windstar in Oct? Just for fun in testing, I'll change the filter only at 5000 miles, add one litre, and drain the oil at 8,000 miles. (95 with 118,000 miles on it now)
 
I was ordering some oil analysis kits from Tim Mills today and we got to talking about this Honda break-in oil and I decided to take a sample after about 1,000 miles and send it in for analysis. Then we will just see how much moly is in there.
 
the moly that is found in a UOA from the first 5K miles of a new honda engines life is not so much in the oil-to begin with at least.

Certain Honda engines use Molybdenum as afriction coating on the skirt of the pistons (and other places as well) and this is esp. true on the B16A2 DOHC VTEC engines (as well as all other B-series VTEC engines). Inital wear causes an elevated level in the first oil change and there is some moly in the break-in oil too.

THis is not a miracle oil that will determine whether or not your engine will last 20K miles longer, but it may make a difference whether or not the piston rings seat well.

I had a 99' Civic Si(r) w/ the B16A2 160hp engine (redlined and made power all the way to 8000rpms:
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) and i changed my oil at 600mi. and noticed at high revs some black puffs of smoke. My friend tried to tell me that it was from not elaving in the break0in oil longer but, her had it too as these engines have a lot of valve overlap and thus, causes some blck puffs at 7000+rpms.

however, i did have allot of consumption w/ this engine and would lose up to 1.5 quarts in 3K miles. After this started to happen I believed my friend and still kinda do. Id leave it in until 3K miles and youll be okay. Heck, even 1500miles, but not 600miles. nope.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Chris Jefferson:


THis is not a miracle oil that will determine whether or not your engine will last 20K miles longer, but it may make a difference whether or not the piston rings seat well.


With new production engines, the rings are seated long before you even take delivery of the car. For sure they are seated by 500 miles, so you can do whatever you wish with your oil change after this point and won't have a problem.
 
quote:

Originally posted by OutlawTitan:
timzak - what oversized filter do you plan to use. I have considered using one myself but the **** filters are such a pain in the *** to get to it pisses me off every time I change one. It is one of the few things about Honda's in general that I don't like.

Outlaw,

I was going to have the dealer do the first change with a free coupon, but couldn't schedule a Saturday to get down there...I'm mostly free on Sundays lately, so I did the first change myself this afternoon.

I bought 3 filters, a 7317 (stock size for the '03 Accord), a 3593A, and a 3985. Good news, all three can go in easily with a little creative weaving through the clutter (one arm from below, the other coming in from the passenger side), but the 3985's gasket is *right on the edge* of the gasket-mating area, so I declined to use it out of caution. The 3593A fits comfortably, and that's what I used. It took 5.125 qts (Pennzoil 5w20) to get to the full level on the dipstick.

Hope this helps!

Tim
 
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