What is recommended? I heard Mobil 1 5w-30 isn't good for these cars, and I don't want to use a 5w-40 for warranty purposes. Any suggestions?
Oil for brand new 2012 Subaru WRX
- Thread starter Josh8519
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Why is M1 5w30 not good?
Use what the manufacturer calls for since you are under warranty. Unless the car is heavily modified or taken to the track every weekend, any of the off-the-shelf oils will do fine.
Use what the manufacturer calls for since you are under warranty. Unless the car is heavily modified or taken to the track every weekend, any of the off-the-shelf oils will do fine.
For some reason it isn't good in subarus, from what I've read on subaru forums. And it shears down to 20 pretty quickly.
+1 FOR 5w30 PP. I run it in my DI turbo Mazda and get very good UOA results. M1 also gets good reviews for turbo engines.
Castrol Edge w/ Titanium. Or GC 0w-30 will perform a lot like 5w-40 oils while meeting specs and weight for warranty requirements.
Also, your choice of oil should not affect your warranty unless the damage is caused by your choice of oil, which is on them to prove. Google Magnuson–Moss warranty act for more about your rights when it comes to warranties.
Also, your choice of oil should not affect your warranty unless the damage is caused by your choice of oil, which is on them to prove. Google Magnuson–Moss warranty act for more about your rights when it comes to warranties.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Why is M1 5w30 not good?..........
Because at some of the Subaru forums, especially nasioc, some have had spun bearings using M1 5W30, and some have had no bearing issues using it. And from this, it has become "fact" that M1 5W30 causes spun bearings in turbocharged Subarus.
Why is M1 5w30 not good?..........
Because at some of the Subaru forums, especially nasioc, some have had spun bearings using M1 5W30, and some have had no bearing issues using it. And from this, it has become "fact" that M1 5W30 causes spun bearings in turbocharged Subarus.
No, it asks for 5w-30 but a lot of subaru owners use 5w-40. I don't want to use 40.
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
For some reason it isn't good in subarus, from what I've read on subaru forums. And it shears down to 20 pretty quickly.
"From what you've read"...is that just anecdotal evidence of person X saying "I didn't like it"? Any objective analyses to back that up? I don't buy it.
It carries the Honda HTO-06 approval, meaning it is okay for use in their turbo-2.3. It's also FF for the Corvette. It is not going to shear down to a 20 unless the car is modified or raced, and even then we've seen Corvettes with this oil hit the track without any serious dilution or viscosity drop.
For some reason it isn't good in subarus, from what I've read on subaru forums. And it shears down to 20 pretty quickly.
"From what you've read"...is that just anecdotal evidence of person X saying "I didn't like it"? Any objective analyses to back that up? I don't buy it.
It carries the Honda HTO-06 approval, meaning it is okay for use in their turbo-2.3. It's also FF for the Corvette. It is not going to shear down to a 20 unless the car is modified or raced, and even then we've seen Corvettes with this oil hit the track without any serious dilution or viscosity drop.
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
No, it asks for 5w-30 but a lot of subaru owners use 5w-40. I don't want to use 40.
Got it, remind me what happened to s2000 reported by many owners, they say the engine tends to burn more oil when using M1, I guess if this is in fact statistically true, one can only assume that certain engine "like" certain oil.
I support what has been suggested above, Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5W30.
Reasonable price and easy to find. What's the oil change interval suggested in the manual? 3750, 5000?
I remember back in 2002 when I was to buy my 1st car, I was between the WRX, Acura CL or IS300... I know they are very different car. Lots of driving pleasure with WRX especially considering the price point, but the interior is not that great back then, I'm sure they have improved after 10 years.
Nice car~
No, it asks for 5w-30 but a lot of subaru owners use 5w-40. I don't want to use 40.
Got it, remind me what happened to s2000 reported by many owners, they say the engine tends to burn more oil when using M1, I guess if this is in fact statistically true, one can only assume that certain engine "like" certain oil.
I support what has been suggested above, Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5W30.
Reasonable price and easy to find. What's the oil change interval suggested in the manual? 3750, 5000?
I remember back in 2002 when I was to buy my 1st car, I was between the WRX, Acura CL or IS300... I know they are very different car. Lots of driving pleasure with WRX especially considering the price point, but the interior is not that great back then, I'm sure they have improved after 10 years.
Nice car~
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
For some reason it isn't good in subarus, from what I've read on subaru forums. And it shears down to 20 pretty quickly.
"From what you've read"...is that just anecdotal evidence of person X saying "I didn't like it"? Any objective analyses to back that up? I don't buy it.
It carries the Honda HTO-06 approval, meaning it is okay for use in their turbo-2.3. It's also FF for the Corvette. It is not going to shear down to a 20 unless the car is modified or raced, and even then we've seen Corvettes with this oil hit the track without any serious dilution or viscosity drop.
I agree.
M1 5W-30 in particular has gotten a lot of flack in the past including higher than average Fe in UOA but that certainly doesn't apply to the current formulation.
Any 5W-30 syn' that meets the HTO-06 spec' is a good choice.
In an OTC choice I like PP 5W-30 for it's higher than average VI and known shear resistance.
Of course the Idemitsu made Subaru 5W-30 is a no-brainer option.
My current 5W-30 oil of interest is the new Sustina 5W-30.
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
For some reason it isn't good in subarus, from what I've read on subaru forums. And it shears down to 20 pretty quickly.
"From what you've read"...is that just anecdotal evidence of person X saying "I didn't like it"? Any objective analyses to back that up? I don't buy it.
It carries the Honda HTO-06 approval, meaning it is okay for use in their turbo-2.3. It's also FF for the Corvette. It is not going to shear down to a 20 unless the car is modified or raced, and even then we've seen Corvettes with this oil hit the track without any serious dilution or viscosity drop.
I agree.
M1 5W-30 in particular has gotten a lot of flack in the past including higher than average Fe in UOA but that certainly doesn't apply to the current formulation.
Any 5W-30 syn' that meets the HTO-06 spec' is a good choice.
In an OTC choice I like PP 5W-30 for it's higher than average VI and known shear resistance.
Of course the Idemitsu made Subaru 5W-30 is a no-brainer option.
My current 5W-30 oil of interest is the new Sustina 5W-30.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
....M1 5W-30 in particular has gotten a lot of flack in the past including higher than average Fe in UOA but that certainly doesn't apply to the current formulation....
I had high iron in a sample done last year. Did M1 have a formulation change since mid 2011?
....M1 5W-30 in particular has gotten a lot of flack in the past including higher than average Fe in UOA but that certainly doesn't apply to the current formulation....
I had high iron in a sample done last year. Did M1 have a formulation change since mid 2011?
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We just had this discussion. Click here.
Most Resource Conserving oils will shear in a Subaru turbo. Other than one uoa on the EP, I haven't seen any other Mobil1 5W-30 uoa's in Subaru turbo's. And the Honda HTO-06 spec will only keep your turbo clean when you spin a bearing.
Look for a 5W-30 that meets Euro ACEA A3 specs. Good luck finding the three oils that do.
Otherwise, it doesn't matter what you run.
-Dennis
ZOMG - I'm running Mobil1!
Most Resource Conserving oils will shear in a Subaru turbo. Other than one uoa on the EP, I haven't seen any other Mobil1 5W-30 uoa's in Subaru turbo's. And the Honda HTO-06 spec will only keep your turbo clean when you spin a bearing.
Look for a 5W-30 that meets Euro ACEA A3 specs. Good luck finding the three oils that do.
-Dennis
ZOMG - I'm running Mobil1!
I'm kinda thinking about having the dealership change my oil. This is my first brand new car and it would be nice to have complete service records if I ever need warranty work done.
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
I'm kinda thinking about having the dealership change my oil. This is my first brand new car and it would be nice to have complete service records if I ever need warranty work done.
If you:
a) don't drive the car hard on a routine basis
b) plan on trading the car in at some point and are not concerned about engine longevity in the LONG term
c) aren't 100% intent on having the best wear protection available
If those above statements don't apply to you, go with dealer oil changes or use whatever 5w-30 synthetic oil that your manual recommends.
The service records is a moot point as you can keep receipts for your oil changes just as well as you can keep service receipts from the dealership.
The old adage that "manufacturer knows best, use what they recommend" is something I don't agree with. The manufacturers have a long list of different attributes they have to work with with, some more important than others that ultimately lead up to one thing: a compromise!
Among these are CAFE, emissions, price, availability, engine protection, the list goes on. I can tell you with certainty that engine protection is well down on the list of importance. What good is the best protected engine if the dealer is replacing catalytic converters at 50k? That right there is a compromise.
I'm not suggesting manufacturers load up their oils with a substance that is going to kill their cats prematurely with the goal of increasing engine longevity, but that example serves to make a point. Emissions dictate an oil low in ZDDP to prevent catalytic converter poisoning, a trend which all oils and manufacturers adhere to. That's something we don't have control of.
What we do have control of is choosing an oil that perhaps fares better in engine longevity, but maybe something that doesn't fare as well in some of the other categories such as price or availability, or maybe fuel mileage.
The OEM has to find an oil spec which any Tom, **** or Harry can find on any store shelve. The average customer does not want to pay a mint for an oil change, nor does he want to visit fifteen places trying to find it. The OEM has fuel economy as a major interest too. All these things are why Subaru has settled on a 5w-30 synthetic: Common grade, easy to find, not TOO terribly expensive, great engine protection from today's oils.
Just because they recommend 5w-30 doesn't mean it's the BEST for your engine. If you're willing to sacrifice a tiny margin of fuel economy (think 0.5 - 1.0%), or looking a little harder to find it (ACEA A3 spec for example), and maybe pay a fraction more, you will come away with an oil that protects better than what the manufacturer recommends.
That said, if you drive the car hard at times, I would go with the above recommendation of a ACEA A3 rated oil. There's only a handful of xW-30 out there, the rest are 40 weights or greater. Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is one, a lot of the high mileage synthetic 10w-30's are options (Mobil 1 and Valvoline I know for sure). There may be others. But I think in a turbo application the HTHS rating is something to look out for, and the ACEA A3 spec has a minimum that a lot of 5w-30 and 10w-30's don't make.
If you HAVE to stick with a xw-30 and you want the best, I think Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is a fabulous choice.
I'm kinda thinking about having the dealership change my oil. This is my first brand new car and it would be nice to have complete service records if I ever need warranty work done.
If you:
a) don't drive the car hard on a routine basis
b) plan on trading the car in at some point and are not concerned about engine longevity in the LONG term
c) aren't 100% intent on having the best wear protection available
If those above statements don't apply to you, go with dealer oil changes or use whatever 5w-30 synthetic oil that your manual recommends.
The service records is a moot point as you can keep receipts for your oil changes just as well as you can keep service receipts from the dealership.
The old adage that "manufacturer knows best, use what they recommend" is something I don't agree with. The manufacturers have a long list of different attributes they have to work with with, some more important than others that ultimately lead up to one thing: a compromise!
Among these are CAFE, emissions, price, availability, engine protection, the list goes on. I can tell you with certainty that engine protection is well down on the list of importance. What good is the best protected engine if the dealer is replacing catalytic converters at 50k? That right there is a compromise.
I'm not suggesting manufacturers load up their oils with a substance that is going to kill their cats prematurely with the goal of increasing engine longevity, but that example serves to make a point. Emissions dictate an oil low in ZDDP to prevent catalytic converter poisoning, a trend which all oils and manufacturers adhere to. That's something we don't have control of.
What we do have control of is choosing an oil that perhaps fares better in engine longevity, but maybe something that doesn't fare as well in some of the other categories such as price or availability, or maybe fuel mileage.
The OEM has to find an oil spec which any Tom, **** or Harry can find on any store shelve. The average customer does not want to pay a mint for an oil change, nor does he want to visit fifteen places trying to find it. The OEM has fuel economy as a major interest too. All these things are why Subaru has settled on a 5w-30 synthetic: Common grade, easy to find, not TOO terribly expensive, great engine protection from today's oils.
Just because they recommend 5w-30 doesn't mean it's the BEST for your engine. If you're willing to sacrifice a tiny margin of fuel economy (think 0.5 - 1.0%), or looking a little harder to find it (ACEA A3 spec for example), and maybe pay a fraction more, you will come away with an oil that protects better than what the manufacturer recommends.
That said, if you drive the car hard at times, I would go with the above recommendation of a ACEA A3 rated oil. There's only a handful of xW-30 out there, the rest are 40 weights or greater. Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is one, a lot of the high mileage synthetic 10w-30's are options (Mobil 1 and Valvoline I know for sure). There may be others. But I think in a turbo application the HTHS rating is something to look out for, and the ACEA A3 spec has a minimum that a lot of 5w-30 and 10w-30's don't make.
If you HAVE to stick with a xw-30 and you want the best, I think Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is a fabulous choice.
I meant to say above that I haven't seen any SN uoa's on the regular M1 5W-30 in a Subaru turbo. M1 0W-40, which buster linked, is what Mobil1 recommended to me for my application. I'm out of warranty though and my car allows 40 grades. I change my own oil and never had a problem with warranty work (even getting a turbo replaced because of the turbo seals).
Actually, the early MY2011 WRX's allowed 5W-40 and even 50 grades in severe conditions. I'll stand by while someone posts differences in the EJ25x between MY2010 and MY2012.
-Dennis
Actually, the early MY2011 WRX's allowed 5W-40 and even 50 grades in severe conditions. I'll stand by while someone posts differences in the EJ25x between MY2010 and MY2012.
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
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Most Resource Conserving oils will shear in a Subaru turbo. And the Honda HTO-06 spec will only keep your turbo clean when you spin a bearing.
Most oils shear some in all applications.
Suggesting possible engine damage in running the spec' oil for even enthusiastic street use is of course nonsense.
Most OEMs today have fail safe systems in place to protect the engine in the event of dangerously high oil or coolant temp's (vehicle will go into limp mode until things cool down).
I would be surprised if 2012 Subie turbo engined cars don't have this feature.
Aside from this, if one is still concerned that the spec' oil may possibly be too light in the way they use their car, do the proper thing and install an oil pressure gauge. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have continuously when your engine is running.
This makes a lot more sense than blindly running a heavier oil just because someone says your turbo engine needs it.
[/url]
Most Resource Conserving oils will shear in a Subaru turbo. And the Honda HTO-06 spec will only keep your turbo clean when you spin a bearing.
Most oils shear some in all applications.
Suggesting possible engine damage in running the spec' oil for even enthusiastic street use is of course nonsense.
Most OEMs today have fail safe systems in place to protect the engine in the event of dangerously high oil or coolant temp's (vehicle will go into limp mode until things cool down).
I would be surprised if 2012 Subie turbo engined cars don't have this feature.
Aside from this, if one is still concerned that the spec' oil may possibly be too light in the way they use their car, do the proper thing and install an oil pressure gauge. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have continuously when your engine is running.
This makes a lot more sense than blindly running a heavier oil just because someone says your turbo engine needs it.
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