Oil for an Infiniti G20 beater

[dx92beater]

I was using 0w-20 M1 in my 1994 G20 (SR20DE engine) for the last 20 miles and everything was fine. The engine has about 100-120 k miles on it (that is another story). The compression is still between 180-185 in all cylinders (stock is 185).

Oil consumption has always been a bit higher than I like in this vehicle, but it has no visible leaks and never visibly burns oil at any point from what I can see. I have never actually monitored oil useage.

It is now going to be a seldom driven backup/beater/emergency car for the wife. It will never be driven hard and anticipate it will only be driven in rural/suburban areas.

Gas mileage is not paramount either.

I would estimate that this vehicle will get used no more than 3600 miles per year. That would be with me driving it once per week to the commuter lot just to make sure it gets run.

I would like to get your opinion on what oil to use and how often to change it.

I would prefer the cheapest option, but would also like the option where I am adding oil the least.

Then again, I don't know if I can let Dino sit there all year and change it once per year @3600 miles.

I was thinking of some Castol GTX HM since it seems to address most of the issues/thoughts I have pretty neatly.

Recap: 1) Don't care about fuel economy 2) Want to reduce consumption because I have 3 other beaters to think about 3)

I am just concerned that I couldn't leave it in there all year. I believe that is a no no for a dino oil? Not sure if it still is.

Any suggestions on brand/oil weight?

I wouldn't be opposed to a 5w30 or a 10w30.

I wouldn't even mind some supertech 10w30 and a cheapo filter to save money and reduce the consumption (which again isn't all that bad...just haven't measured it).

Anyone bored?

looool

Thanks!

 

[saberz]

The oils now a days are more stable for time changes than previously. Given that its a HM car and you stated there was some burn off(which can be normal) I'd go with a really good conventional or synthetic. Go with the oil weight recommended by your car manual.

Pennzoil YB
Valv: Maxlife
Valv: Synpower
Pennzoil Platinum

Mind you PP and Syn typically run 20 bucks a 5qt jug at walmart which is pretty cheap insurance if your not sure about letting conventional oil sit. But I had my Jeep sit for 8 months and it cranked up and drove fine with dino oil, granted it needs to be changed but no harm no foul so long as you do it at least twice a year IMO.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I would go with Maxlife 10W30, it has good add pack and it is a thick 30 so that it would slow down the consumption.

 

[ADFD1]

I would think sticking to a synthetic oil would be a good idea, since the car will sit, and the synthetic will flow better especially during that first cold start. A 5W30 synthetic the least expensive you can find will probably work well, and last 1 full year. The key is if you run it once a week be sure its run at least 30 minutes before you shut it off. The 30wt should burn less than the 0W20 you were using.

AD

 

[dx92beater]

I like your mentality on the Synthetic...price vs. insurance in letting it sit for a yr.

I don't think it will sit for extended periods of time because I am worried about other components namely the battery...but you never know.

I have had the best luck with Castrol GTX HM over Valvoline HM when I was getting my Protege DX beater not to smoke.

I actually have a bit of it in my basement come to think of it lol!

 

[dx92beater]

All good suggestions so far thanks! I know how fast you guys can be on this board. I will just kick back and watch lol!

 

[saberz]

Its why this is my favorite forum, I can literally hit "refresh" and there can be a dozen new posts!

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted By: Anies
Its why this is my favorite forum, I can literally hit "refresh" and there can be a dozen new posts!


Yes, loooool!

 

[Drivebelt]

I would just run any brand name SM rated conventional 5W-30. Conventional SM 5W-30 oils these days are Group II/II+ based motor oils. I year 3600 miles should be no problem for these oils.

 

[demarpaint]

I like the synthetic oil for this application simply because the car will be sitting. Most good synthetics (polar in nature) cling better and longer than conventional oils do, and will aid in cold starts better.

 

[Mr Nice]

^^^

Yep, if its a beater then dino will keep that car on the road for another 10 years no problem.

 

[daves87rs]

Supertech 10-30.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
^^^

Yep, if its a beater then dino will keep that car on the road for another 10 years no problem.


Free Peak+Proline filter at Pep Boys is what I would use in that car. I have a beater too, '94 LS400 with more than 200k miles and free Peak+Proline filter will be in that car on the next OC.

 

[RD400]

Nice Beater; that engine loves to rev. Light consumption is nothing to worry about, but also check the PCV system and clean/replace the valve regularly. I'd also go with a HM oil like Maxlife and as long as it gets up to temp for 20+ minutes during the commute, change it yearly.