If you meant me, then yeah here you go.Got a picture?
If you meant me, then yeah here you go.Got a picture?
Nice one Thanks for the help all.20W-50 is fine. And nice car.
Ok, then 5w50 instead if 20w50There is no good reason to use a monograde or obsolete specification oil in this old car.
Oil was terrible back in 1953*.
That does not mean you must use terrible oil in a 1953 engine.
A modern, detergent, multi grade, even a synthetic, is a much better choice than “what it came with”.
A diesel spec Xw40 will handle the fuel dilution and carbon/soot that results from the inefficiency of carburetor fuel mixing while meeting the original viscosity specification.
Further, the lower cold viscosity of a multi grade will help on cold starts. A monograde 40, for example, is awfully hard on the starter when the temp is below about 70F.
When you’re cranking a carburetor engine with a 6V Lucas starter - this old engine needs all the help it can get.
* It was worse in 1932. And I’m amused by all the recommendations from people who don’t own a carbureted engine, and have never heard of 6V electrics.
I would have no problem with a synthetic in this. It specified a 20 for cold temps, 30 for normal temps, 40 for hot temps. Probably specified a 10 for arctic conditions
So, a 0W40 sounds about perfect.
But whatever is chosen, cold start performance matters in this, and in most, older engines. That’s why the specific viscosities were mentioned with precise temperature ranges for each.
A modern oil is a godsend for older engines. It’s so much better than what came before.
Depends on the engine.Most older engines DON'T need ZDDP, would that be correct?
Perhaps not every engine “needs” ZDDP but every engine can benefit from it. It’s probably the single most significant additive present in modern motor oils.
Most older engines DON'T need ZDDP, would that be correct?
No they did not get rid of most or all of it. Lower treat levels are just as effective for most engines. You can still purchase oils with higher (1000 to 1200 ppm) levels from ExxonMobil and others.Though they got rid of it mostly/all because it poisoned catalytic converters, maybe only downside?
No they did not get rid of most or all of it. Lower treat levels are just as effective for most engines. You can still purchase oils with higher (1000 to 1200 ppm) levels from ExxonMobil and others.
The phosphorus only poisons the catalyst if it reaches the substrate. If your engine is not consuming a lot of oil then it won’t matter much what oil you use.
What approval, specification or API license does your engine require?So the appropriate amount is in any API SN Plus or API SP oil, no additional thought needed? (*as to the formulation of the oil)
What approval, specification or API license does your engine require?
If you meant me, then yeah here you go.