Oil for a street/strip engine?

Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Hi everyone, I tried searching, and found alot of stuff on my engine, but not for my purposes. I'm building up a roller cam Vortec 350 engine, fuel injected - likely going to set the rev limiter at 6k (maybe 6200). Manual transmission, for any difference that may make. The car will likely see less than 5k miles a year, occassionally driving it around on small errands once a week or every two weeks or to car meets and such, but really hammering on it at the track (1/4 mile racing). On a GM performance forum there's a few guys that add superfine molybdenum to their oil about every 40-50k miles, and have seen huge reductions in part wear. One guy who has been doing it for about 20 years adds a tablespoon of it in with dino oil with a fresh engine, runs it a few thousand miles, drains it, tosses in synthetic with a teaspoon of the stuff, and then just does normal oil changes, adding a teaspoon more, as I mentioned, ever 40-50k miles. I'll be doing the same, but as I've seen in alot of threads here, some engines like certain oils more than others (even if they have identical weights). Does anyone have any recommendations for me on oil and weight? It's been suggested that I use 5w-30 (after reading some stuff here, I'm wondering if that guy was messing with me or not... especially in some of the thick vs. thin threads). The builder and I are figuring that the engine will be putting out about 550HP at the crank, using 100 shot of nitrous - again I'm mentioning it just in case it has any impact on recommendations. Filter wise I was just going to go with the Mobil 1 unit, again unless anyone has some better recommendations. Thanks everyone! And I apologize if I did miss a thread covering a similiar setup to mine with the same question.
 
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Messages
11,184
Location
Bad Axe, MI
use a good oil and you shouldn't need to use any additives,i'd throw in some HDEO like RTS or M1 TDT 5w40,it has boosted levels of ZInc,phos and cal to aid in your concerns about wear and would do your 5k OC easly and still be good for the winter use if your planning on using it in the winter. good choice on filters too can't go wrong there.
 
Messages
1
Location
OREGON,USA
I HAVE A NEW RAMJET 502 IN MY 93 K3500. I USED STD 10-30 WT DURING HE FIRST 600 MI. NOW I AM USING SYNTHETIK MOBILE 1 10-30 EXT. PERF OIL. IS IT NORMAL FOR A NEW ENGINE TO USE 1 QT EVERY 150 MI OF FREEWAY DRIVING. SOME SAY THAT IT IS NORMAL, OTHERS SAY USE A 15-50 WT SYNTHETIC. I AM TIRED OF PUTTING AN ADDITIONAL $5.00 EVERY 150 MILES.
 

Trinten

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Hey guys! Thanks for the replies, and I'm sorry I haven't responded sooner! The engine is still being built and some things have changed... and for some reason I wasn't notified when replies were made (I made sure to check the "Watched thread" box. To give some updates, we're getting rid of the Vortec heads and going with AFR 195cc heads. It's still going to be a hydraulic roller. The fuel injection system when it's done will be MAF based, modified TPI (using a FIRST intake to overcome the small runner issue in stock TPI). In the short term the engine will be running a carb (nothing major, 650 holley, and probably an air gap lower intake). Most of the driving in the car will be on the highway, and of course the hard runs at the 1/4 mile track, probably 90% highway, 5% track, 5% around town. I live in North Carolina, so while it does get cold in the winter, I can't remember it ever getting below zero. I probably won't drive it as much in the winter, maybe for thirty minutes or so on the highway once or twice a week. Again - I apologize for the late reply, and thank you guys for the input, any other suggestions or questions are welcome! *EDIT* - in case it plays a part, the cam that is going is is Comp Camps 280XFI, which has a 230/238 duration at 0.50 (IIRC). It's a fairly agressive cam, though we'll be using 1.5 rockers instead of 1.6 to help tame down the lift just a touch).
 
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Messages
18,449
Location
East of IGO
Originally Posted By: daman
use a good oil and you shouldn't need to use any additives,i'd throw in some HDEO like RTS or M1 TDT 5w40,it has boosted levels of ZInc,phos and cal to aid in your concerns about wear and would do your 5k OC easly and still be good for the winter use if your planning on using it in the winter. good choice on filters too can't go wrong there.
+1 there couldn't have been a better recommendation . HDEOs work great .
 
Messages
18,449
Location
East of IGO
Originally Posted By: RIVERRUNNER
I HAVE A NEW RAMJET 502 IN MY 93 K3500. I USED STD 10-30 WT DURING HE FIRST 600 MI. NOW I AM USING SYNTHETIK MOBILE 1 10-30 EXT. PERF OIL. IS IT NORMAL FOR A NEW ENGINE TO USE 1 QT EVERY 150 MI OF FREEWAY DRIVING. SOME SAY THAT IT IS NORMAL, OTHERS SAY USE A 15-50 WT SYNTHETIC. I AM TIRED OF PUTTING AN ADDITIONAL $5.00 EVERY 150 MILES. RIVERRUNDAD@AOL.COM
Run a non syn oil.
 

Trinten

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Alright! Thanks for the reiteration and assurances Steve! I'm looking at the Mobil Delvac 1 ESP. That *seems* to meet all the requirements you folks suggested. Am I correct?
 
Messages
392
Location
OR
Mobil 15w-50. Trust me, look at the UOA's on this board. Plenty of Z & P. Good move with the AFR's, best SBC 23 degree heads out there. (the mobil delvac will be sufficient as well)
 
Messages
1,859
Location
USA
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Redline 10w-40 has worked out very well in my 355 LT1
+1, this is my recommendation also.
 
Messages
15,056
Location
Canada
Apparently, GM Performance Parts ships it's high-performance engines from the shop with 20W-50 in them, and they rec. sticking with 20W-50 in them. For an engine that sees 90% track time, maybe 20W-50 is the way to go...I'd probably go with Valvoline VR-1 20W-50, OR Brad-Penn 'Penngrade 1' 20W-50 race oil.
 

Trinten

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
North Carolina
Thanks for the additional suggestions and info guys! I'm using hydraulic rollers, instead of flat tappets, so I *thought* that meant I didn't need to worry about the zinc and phosphorous as much - or am I mistaken on that? I figured I'll go ahead and try Mobil's Devlac 1 ESP 5w-40 stuff first, then after a few oil changes try out the Redline 10w-40 and see if there's any differences. Thanks again everyone!!
 

JT1

Messages
589
Location
Michigan
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Apparently, GM Performance Parts ships it's high-performance engines from the shop with 20W-50 in them, and they rec. sticking with 20W-50 in them. .
Not according to the instruction manual that comes with the zz502(502 hp/502tq) they recommend conv. 5w30 for the first 1000 mi, then either syn or conv. 5w30 after that. I use Valvoline Premium Conventional 10w40 in my 355, works just fine.
 
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JT1

Messages
589
Location
Michigan
From GMPP ramjet 502 engine installation and break-in instructions: Caution: Before the engine is installed in a vehicle, it needs to be filled with oil and primed. You should add GM Goodwrench 5W30 or equivalent motor oil to your new engine. Check the engine oil level on the dipstick and add accordingly. I feel this is closer to what he is building though. From the fastburn 385 instr.: Change the oil and filter. Replace with 10w30 (non synthetic) and a PF25 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. The ZZ572 does recommend non-syn 20w50 though.
 
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Messages
2,434
Location
Oconomowoc Wi
Just use Mobil 1 15W/50. People spend a ton of money building an engine then get cheap with the oil. If you plan on driving the car during temps higher then 0 degrees, I would just go with the heavier oil.
 
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Messages
9
Location
United States
Originally Posted By: Trinten
Thanks for the additional suggestions and info guys! I'm using hydraulic rollers, instead of flat tappets, so I *thought* that meant I didn't need to worry about the zinc and phosphorous as much - or am I mistaken on that? I figured I'll go ahead and try Mobil's Devlac 1 ESP 5w-40 stuff first, then after a few oil changes try out the Redline 10w-40 and see if there's any differences. Thanks again everyone!!
You need to still have a fair amount of ZDDP IMO. Even though you don't have a flat tappet cam, there are still a lot of other parts in the engine that benefit from it. Top rings, pushrod tips, needle bearings in lifters and rockers, etc. Also, those XFI lobes have worked well for me. They can be run with a solid lifter, not sure if you knew that. I lash them at .002" cold. By using solid lifters I can run a little more spring pressure and keep the valvetrain under control. I normally run 150-175 pounds of seat pressure on a hydraulic roller, but with the XFI lobes and a solid lifter I use 200 pounds. One oil I like a lot for street use is the Gibbs Hotrod oil.
 
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