Oil for a REAL winter, 5w30, gm 3.8

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TmanP

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So I'm starting to think about what oil to use this winter in my 06 Buick with the 3800. Current fill is Motorcraft 5w30, prior to that I used Napa synthetic, before that Mobil 1. (I bought the car a year ago, and don't know what the previous owners used.) Living in Minnesota during the winter is obviously hard on a car, and I want to protect the engine during the cold starts. I am very easy on it until it warms up, but still. During the winter the car is started up in a 45 degree garage and driven 2 miles to school (barely warms up). It cools off for 8 hours and is cold started using the remote starter then driven home, back into the garage. I'll drive it more on the weekends but living in a small town it's hard to get it fully warmed up. I try and get her out on the highway every couple weeks, but if the weather's bad that's hard. We see weather that occasionally hits about -20, once in a while -15, and quite often -10. (the car doesn't sit out overnight, but does from 8-3 and whenever I work) So, here are my thoughts:

Chevron Supreme 5w30 (they say it's a synblend)

Motorcraft 5w30

PP 5w30

German Castrol 5w30

QSUD 5w30

PYB 5w30

All GM says is to use an oil that meets GM6094M, and I know that is all I NEED.
However, I, probably like many of you on here, want the BEST for my car.

So which one, or another of your suggestion, would you use in a GM 3800 during a pretty harsh winter? I'll use a Wix filter and am not interested in extended drains. I'm more than happy to buy a synthetic if you all think I should. Sorry to get you thinking about winter...
shocked.gif


Thanks for all the help.
 
Well to be honest I would run a 0w30 if you are concerned about harsh winters. I often switch to 0 weight in the cold months and back to 5 for the summer.
 
Nope, I don't have a way to monitor the oil temps. And the link was for 0w20, is that what you are saying to use, or 0w30? (as it's spec'd for 5w30)

And I'm definitely good with using 0w30
 
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Originally Posted By: TmanP
And the link was for 0w20, is that what you are saying to use, or 0w30? (as it's spec'd for 5w30)

Link is correct.

Why? SAE 30-weight is anything from 9.3 to 12.5 cSt. Magnatec 0w-20 comes in at 9.1 cSt @ 100C. In other words, you're 0.2 cSt from being a 30-weight.

Your L26 3.8L is lightly stressed, and easy on oil. Bulk temperature during such operation as you're encountering will be low. No need for anything thicker.
 
Owned many a 3800 and lived in MN my whole life. With a good battery, a 3800 will start just fine with any 5w30-syn or conv. Never had one not start even on a -20 day. My son's 07 Grand Prix starts in Grand Forks ND with 5w30 Napa syn sitting outside all winter at college.

If the battery is 3 years or older, replace it now and sleep well. If your coolant elbows are still original plastic, replace them with the new metal ones. Best motor ever made in my opinion.

Dave
 
Pick a good 5w-30 synthetic... Easier starts, better protection, and will handle the engine not getting up to operating temps better. PP or M1.
 
40F isn't anything too concerning. My mother used to do five block commutes multiple times a day, in winter weather.

Id run a sun you can get on sale and not worry much. I hear NAPA is now on sale for $2.99/qt. If the cold weather characteristics are half decent, Id run with that...
 
Many GM cars would have a "Use 5w30" written on the oil cap, but somewhere in the middle of the user's manual, there would be a recommendation for 0w30 synthetic in harsh winter.

I think M1 0w30 AFE would be ideal.
 
I have an '03 GM 3800 in a Lesabre. I run 5W30 full synthetic Amsoil year round; spent last winter working construction in Wisconsin. Per Amsoil's technical data on the oil, 5W30 has a low pour point of -60 F; http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf which is sufficient for anywhere in the US except Alaska. I do UOA every 4K and I may change my oil at 20 or 30K. (I'm also running bypass filtration), but my point is that I know what my wear metals are and the internal condition of my engine....Yes, I'm a synthetic fan and firmly of the belief that synthetic is best for real cold and real hot...It doesn't break down like dino oil because it is NOT dino oil.

For what it's worth, (Amsoil) 0W30 has the same low temp pour point as 5W30; and the technical data states that GM6094M has been superceded by GM dexos1.

My 2 cents worth thoughts are that any 5W30 or 0W30 oil you choose that meets spec is OK; you just need to take that car up on the highway every couple weeks and put the hammer down for 20 minutes or so PAST when the engine is at equiliriuum temp.
 
Seeing is believing.

A while back I had conventional 5W30 and full synthetic, I put equal amounts in identical plastic cups then put them in the freezer!

I compared room temperature and freezer temperature pour speeds, conventional poured like molasses even though it's a multi grade! Full synthetic, thickened just a little, but was a clear winner for cold weather !!

I'll never go back to conventional oil again even for free! I also use a pair of FilterMags on the outside of the oil filter, wear metals stick to the inside of the filter, oil stays cleaner much longer, 6,000 miles and still barely dark yet! UOA results show it works.
 
With 140,000 miles i say dino although the winters are really cold a synthetic may be better. A syn blend may be the better choice here.. The motorcraft or the chevron supreme are good oils and also have the inner tamper proof seal.
 
QSUD 5W30 has served me well in cold climates and short trips on my wifes Freestyle , my 3800 in my buick gets parked for the winter , but it has been known to come out of the garage on a clear dry cold day in January just to spin the fluids up and around it has run QSUD 5W30 since I owned it
 
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Sump/block heater on a timer. Probably no good for the return trip, but at least its likely to get to full temperature once a day.

Skinny oil will help starting but it'll do nothing for water accumulation.
 
If you're looking at Castrol 5w-30 A3/B4, I'd substitute that with Castrol 0w-30 A3/B4, which should be the same price. From a cost perspective, though, you're looking at individual quarts for either option, which does get costly.
 
If the engine never gets up to full operating temp, a 5W20 will be more than sufficient for the winter months.

A luke warm 5W20 is still thicker than a fully warmed up 5W30.
 
M1 AFE 0W-30 will be the best in winter.

AFAIK, has the lowest CCS and MRV values of any 0W-30 on the market.
 
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