I would just keep a $6-8K back-up fund for a reman long block in case the camshaft and lifters failed. In the meantime, use your favorite API SP oil and change it often, and avoid excessive idling.
Oil for a hard working Hemi
- Thread starter BC Guy
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What kind of coolant, oil and trans temps are you seeing pulling the grades? What elevation are you at?
i am selfishly asking for my own personal reasons. Trying to compare to my 2014 Ecoboost which gets very hot in the summer towing here in utah.
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Grades range from 7 to 8 percent with air temps between 90 too 100 degrees. Grades are long with little cresting to ease off the load of the engine. I dont push it but oil temps are at 110 degrees celcius and tranny temps are at 90.
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You Hemi haters!!!! I think that the issues with the cams and lifters stems from the OLM....way to generous. I change mine at 5000 kms and the outgoing lube is trashed. Extending past this will lead to accelerated wear. These Hemis are really tough on oil requiring high quality oil at a short interval.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
That's not very high (that oil temp). I see 104C during the summer (coolant is around 100C at that point, trans 87C).
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
No. It (a surficant) is primarily beneficial when used with straight water in racing applications. It is less effective when mixed with coolant and I've never had cooling issues. I did use it "back in the day" in my 5.0L at one point.
i run it in my Ecoboost with a 40%/60% coolant/water mixture.
i may go 30%/70% this summer when I install my Mishimoto radiator but I am worried its going to suppress the boiling point to much. I can hit 240+ coolant temps with ease.
I’m not a hater - I have one myself. Just cognizant of the reality that cam/lifter failure can happen and to be financially prepared.
Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 would be my choice. I wait for the NAPA sales and load up. ESP is their very best imo.
Tough on oil? That’s a joke, right? Hemi runs fine with any API Oil, with any approvals- including the phony MS 6395 - for up to 7-10K miles without issues, as long as the oil is suitable for the long drain. The CL failure seems to be related to poor metallurgic not oil. Lots of information about that on here.
I was just talking to the owner of the forming company yesterday (pulled up next to me in his 14ish ram) and it had a pretty significant lifter tap (did not sound like exhaust manifold). I do not know about the maintenance history but judging by the age and condition of several of their other vehicles (a mid 90s Cummins flat bed in mint condition) I'd guess it's good.
My understanding on this cam and lifter issue is bad quality parts. Some last and some don't.
My understanding on this cam and lifter issue is bad quality parts. Some last and some don't.
It is a pathetic failure not fixable with a “better” motor oil.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
It's bad QC on the lifters, seems to be the general conclusion. GM has been plagued with the same issue, guess this can happen when you outsource/offshore your lifter manufacturing. I assume they likely share a supplier (FCA and GM). I think both have had several revisions at this point, supposedly they are "fixed" now, but that's been the case several times over.
The vast majority of the engines never experience the failure, but the main difference is that with the GM engines, the cam is often saveable, since it uses a billet core, whereas with the HEMI cams being SADI, the cam is usually a write-off too.
FCA has a TSB regarding the cam/lifter issue. You are supposed to inspect the oil control valves for evidence of metal debris. If there is, the engine must be replaced.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10187058-9999.pdf
That's always an option. Point is, I don't know if a cam/lifter job is even a viable option in many situations. When the failure happens, you're looking at a complete engine replacement.So? Send the used filters to @53' Stude ?
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