Oil for 2015 Yukon XL Denali 6.2

Thanks for all the responses and that's espcially interesting on the trans temp because I have noticed that despite driving it easy and having new synthetic fluid in it, the trans runs quite a bit warmer than my 2011 Tahoe does
 
5W30 Mobil 1 in my wife's 2017 6.2 for the last few changes. Has 54k on it now, may do an oil analysis at the next change. I follow the oil life monitor which is 7,500 miles and it's been great so far. [Linked Image]
 
A modern SAE 40 will pass 25W40. Some refer SAE 30 as 20W30. Basically you are asking if it is ok to use SAE 40 in your 6.2L. Yes, weather permitting. Always above 5C or 40F. If you want to try a 40, maybe start with a 15W40 CK-4/SN, and go from there.
 
Originally Posted by Strjock81
Thanks for all the responses and that's espcially interesting on the trans temp because I have noticed that despite driving it easy and having new synthetic fluid in it, the trans runs quite a bit warmer than my 2011 Tahoe does
2014 & up have a Thermostat Cooler Bypass, It can be deleted.
 
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Thanks for posting great info Falcon_LS. Learned something. What was posted on the oil fill cap on the vehicles you are referencing?
I know for a fact there's Dexos1 on it, but I can't remember if there was a viscosity printed on the cap. It wouldn't surprise me if it says 0W-20 though; I don't see GM making special oil fill caps for the Middle East. Ford didn't back in 2001, when they switched all Modular V8s to 5W-20. Middle East dealers got TSB to continue using 10W-30, which was also recommended in the supplemental service manual. Unlike GM, Ford did not print separate manuals for export, which was stupid. The English language version was basically what was available in the United States, along with a regional version translated and printed in Arabic. Then you had two supplemental service manuals in English and Arabic, contradicting recommendations in the owner's manual, causing a lot of confusion. Going back to the 2000's, a lot of export GM vehicles had viscosity/temperature charts in their owners manuals, ranging from 0W-30 to 20W-50 based on anticipated ambient temperatures. This was when dealers used 20W-50 as service fill. ACEA A3 was generally the recommended specification, allowing you to use API SL in a pinch, but no mention or recommendation of ILSAC, 6094M and 4718M. Oil caps back then had 5W-30 on them, no different than USDM vehicles.
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
Nice information and description of the severe duty in the ME and the service recomendations. I like that they run out the filters to zero on the OLM.
Glad it was helpful! Many folks still follow the old 5,000 km/3,000 mile rule, although instead of 3 months, they change oil every month if they don't drive that much. Others, who are more technically minded, follow the OLM and do additional oil changes in between, which is what I do personally. Those using synthetics often do a drain and refill once the OLM hits 50%, while others running conventional do a drain and refill every 25%. Regular oil changes, even without the filter, are essential here because of fuel and air quality.
 
Originally Posted by Strjock81
Thanks for all the responses and that's espcially interesting on the trans temp because I have noticed that despite driving it easy and having new synthetic fluid in it, the trans runs quite a bit warmer than my 2011 Tahoe does
If you go to Page 50 in Trailer Life Magazine's February 2011 issue:
Originally Posted by Trailer Life Magazine
General Motors' in-house towing expert provided me with this statement: The maximum allowable automatic-transmission fluid temperature is dictated by the transmission oil itself. The oil begins to degrade significantly above 270°F, so we design vehicles so that in all but the most extreme conditions, the fluid temperature in the transmission sump stays below 270°F. We allow for up to 285°F in extreme conditions (i.e., towing a trailer with combination loaded at gcwr in Death Valley). But for customer usage anywhere else in the country, even at GCWR, transmission-sump temperature should stay below 270°F. Above this point, certain internal components such as seals begin to disintegrate rather quickly. Although newer synthetic fluids can withstand higher temps, we still recommend this as a maximum temperature.
Although that very well may be the case, from a transmission longevity perspective, I take that with a grain of salt. A lot of folks here run an air-to-oil cooler, usually made by Long Manufacturing, to tackle the ATF temperature problem. Additional measures include a higher capacity aluminum transmission pan with a drain plug and LubeGard red. Those following the OLM with aftermarket transmission pans often do a simple drain and refill at every oil and filter change once the OLM zeros out.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
2014 & up have a Thermostat Cooler Bypass, It can be deleted.
That is super useful information! Thank you, Clinebarger! thumbsup
 
Seeing the posting from Falcon_LS has changed my mind regarding the need for the 0w20 from a manufacturing design aspect. Next oil change will be 5w30. I do tow my boat occasionally. Now to figure out the transmission cooler bypass issue. Is this a "programming " thing or is there a valve that needs to be removed? The cooler a transmission is the longer it lives.
 
Lots of great info and thanks everyone for giving me some stuff to research to pass the time during this mess.
 
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I believe both engines were designed with 0w-20 in mind. Not sure anything heavier is necessary, unless you are in death valley pulling up the steepest inclines with the maximum load, then I think I would move up to a Xw-30.
Just wanted to chime in and say that you are correct; the service info in Mitchell (which as far as I know pertains to US-market stuff) specifically says to only run 0W-20 in the Gen V truck engines.
 
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I wouldn't get all worked up about it, use whatever makes you sleep better. Heck, you could even use whatever you're running in your Cummins. Friend of mine's running Petro-Canada Duron HP 15W-40 in his '18 Tahoe since he did the first oil/filter change at 500 km (313 miles). It has since had an oil change at 1,000 km (625 miles), 1,500 km (938 miles) and 3,000 km (1,875 miles) before switching to the OLM, with a drain/refill for every 25% decrease in oil life given its operating conditions. The truck now has a little over 127,000 miles on it with zero issues, even occasionally towing a 25 foot boat. I wouldn't run 15W-40 in winter where you are, but you could probably consolidate and use one synthetic HDEO for both trucks along with what you use for the two VAGs, or use what you're using in the VAGs for the Yukon.
 
Originally Posted by Falcon_LS
I wouldn't get all worked up about it, use whatever makes you sleep better. Heck, you could even use whatever you're running in your Cummins. Friend of mine's running Petro-Canada Duron HP 15W-40 in his '18 Tahoe since he did the first oil/filter change at 500 km (313 miles). It has since had an oil change at 1,000 km (625 miles), 1,500 km (938 miles) and 3,000 km (1,875 miles) before switching to the OLM, with a drain/refill for every 25% decrease in oil life given its operating conditions. The truck now has a little over 127,000 miles on it with zero issues, even occasionally towing a 25 foot boat. I wouldn't run 15W-40 in winter where you are, but you could probably consolidate and use one synthetic HDEO for both trucks along with what you use for the two VAGs, or use what you're using in the VAGs for the Yukon.
Your friend has a 2018 Tahoe with 127,000 miles on it?.......... and has time for boating? When does he sleep?
 
Originally Posted by Strjock81
what about a 0w-30 or 5W-30 that's on the thinner side maybe the best of both worlds?
My understanding is the AFM hardware has been the same for 0w20 and 5w30 spec'd engines. Those are the two common Dexos 1.2 approved motor oils that are easy to find and up to the job. These motors move lots of oil at startup and when you step on it. Between coolers, advanced pumps, piston jets, and a stiff six bolt basement … 5w30 is your "thick" in most places.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Your friend has a 2018 Tahoe with 127,000 miles on it?.......... and has time for boating? When does he sleep?
That's roughly 4,000 miles a month since he bought it in November '17. He puts on about 200 miles a day to commute, give or take, five days a week. His '14 had 190,000 miles on it when he sold it.
 
At what pressure do these engines bypass oil directly from the oil pump and back to the sump? Or is that an old design that's no longer valid? The old ideas of installing high volume/pressure oil pumps just to see higher pressure readings on the gauge used to create comfort that engines were being "protected" by a strong flood of oil. In reality most of that high volume/pressure was being bypassed back to the sump. Circa first gen SBC & BBC.
 
Holy cow this reminded me I hadn't changed my signature in like 11+ years or more ...‚
 
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