Oil for 2009 Honda Civic SI?

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Hello guys,

I'm kinda stumped here... I'm looking to do my first oil change from the factory oil that is currently in it. I'm planning on switching to synthetic, due to the fact that I just want to baby it, and get the best performance, economy, and engine life out of it. I'm pretty unsure of what to use. I have heard nothing but good things about Royal Purple, which is what I was planning on going with, but it is pretty pricey... And I've heard claims that the K20 engine wouldn't benefit from it too much more than a cheaper brand of synthetic.
I've also heard that the oil life of Royal Purple isn't too high, someone somewhere, albeit possibly retarded, said 2000 miles. I find this hard to believe as the RP website claims 12000. If it's really actually worth it, the price isn't really an issue. I just want to make sure that I couldn't be getting basically the same results from something a bit cheaper, and if so, some recommendations would be fantastic. I've heard good things about Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline and the such. My local Advanced has a pretty awesome deal going on now, which is what the dude there recommended... Castrol Syntec 5w30? 5 Quarts + a K&N filter for $30. But from what I hear Castrol Syntec isn't even fully synthetic. So, I just don't know! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I do tend to run it hard at times, and since it's a high revving engine, I'm sure this has some impact on what I should choose. Regardless of what I choose, I'm probably going want to change it every 6,000 miles or so.


1. What kind of vehicle you have:
2009 Honda Civic SI, currently stock, planning on a cold air intake soon... But other than that, no further upgrades in the near future.

2. What your owner's manual says:
It doesn't say too much... Basically just the API certification seal, 5w-30, may use 10w-30 if the temperature is never below 20 degrees F.

3. Where you live:
Richmond, Virginia. The weather here is extremely random, the summer brought temps in the 100's. I'm unsure what the winter will bring.

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Generally I go for economy, but I still drive pretty fast... And I definitely get on it pretty regularly.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
I'd say I drive about 60 miles a day, between work, and just being out and about. I'd say about 50/50 city/highway.

6. Whether your car has any known problems
Nope, Just got it... It's a 2009, but it only had 2600 miles. Still on the factory oil.


Thanks in advance.
 
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to BITOG!

Would you like a point-by-point discussion of everything you've presented, or just some advice? I don't know about anyone else but I could write an essay from your first paragraph.
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Here's my advice in a nutshell: Any API SN rated 5w-30. Synthetic or not, if it carries that approval (with the API logo etc.), it should handle your 6,000 mile OCIs like a champ. All-in-all, your driving habits sound like a cakewalk for your engine, and Honda engines are generally very easy on oil. Any difference between oils will be very slight and probably not noticeable over the life of the engine.

Once you're out of warranty, come on back and we'll talk about the "boutique" stuff. That's a whole 'nother discussion.
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I have the simular engine in 06 RSX. My top choices would be (no particular order of preference):

5W-30/10W-30 (top of the line):
- Mobil 1 EP
- Pennzoil Ultra
- Castrol Edge

5W-30/10W-30 mainstream
- Mobil 1
- Pennzoil Platinum
- Castrol Syntec

I wouldn't worry to much about 10W-30 synthetic as it can be used well below 20F.

It might sound weird but I mostly choose my oils on the basis of how engine sounds with them and normally go with the quietest one. My other car (ecotec 2.2) never liked thinner oils and I've been using synthetic 10W-30 exclusively since about 15k miles (now almost 110k miles). Some cars don't seem to notice any difference between 5W-30 and 10W-30 at all.

I heard that Pennzoil gives the quietest engine, but i have yet to try Pennzoil Ultra. Currently using M1 EP 5W-30 and RSX engines seems to like it.

In your place I would probably start with 5W-30 which might give you a slightly better fuel economy.

6-8k miles sound reasonable, but with top of the line oils you can probably extend it to 10k easy.

K&N filter is also great so I would think that you're on the right track from the start!

Regards,
 
I would not be adverse to a point-by-point discussion, but it's probably not necessary.

Basically, if RP is overrated... Best bang for my buck for my new toy and it's engine. :D If there won't be much difference in longevity of the engine between oils, how about the most suitable for 'perfomance/economy'?
 
I prefer M1 EP in my 02 Accord V6. 108k runs like new. Forget the AM air filter,the oems are very good. Keep your warranty intact. If you must play,do it after the warranty expires. Good luck with it.
 
Hondas are well designed motors that last hundreds of thousands of miles with jiffy lube oil and filters .So what are you actually asking? If you run syn oil, run 10,000 mile oil change intervals at least, if you run dino do less there really isn't any reason to run syn oil unless you are needing the advantages that syn oil can have. cold air intake ? don't waste your money. Driving 60 miles a day would put you into the value of a syn oil at 10,000 mile oil change intervals . 6,000 mile oil change intervals dino oil. You are really not getting any more protection for you engine with syn oil if you change it at shorter intervals because the engine design doesn't put a load on the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Phoetad
Basically, if RP is overrated... Best bang for my buck for my new toy and it's engine. :D If there won't be much difference in longevity of the engine between oils, how about the most suitable for 'perfomance/economy'?

I would hesitate to say that RP is overrated in general, but IMO it definitely is for your engine and driving.

If you're looking at quality oils, you're highly unlikely to see any performance or MPG gain from one vs. another, and even if you do, it will be very very small for the money.
 
Just change oil 2x a year, once w/5w-30 and once with 10w-30. If you need synth to make it to 6 months, then get it. If you only drive 5000-6000 miles in 6 months, then use dino oil.
 
You say about 60 miles per day with 1/2 highway. I would go PYB for the 6K oil change. 6K on an expensive synthetic is a waste. That engine vehicle combo is easy on oil. JMO. Ed
 
I'd definitely would skip conventional if you plan stay in vtec and or shift in high RPMS regularly.

Friend's 05 rsx sees redline at least once a day and shifts all day at 4-5k on Valvoline Synpower 5w-30. He does 5k oil changes and the oil comes out pure. The camshafts looks to be in excellent condition with no varnish. I run synpower in my k24 engine as well. Smooth as can be. the only oil my friends and i would disagree upon is m1 products. 3 friends including myself have k series engine where we noticed rougher engines:

k24a2
k20z1
k20a3

Other oils to mention:
quakerstate hp
pennzoil platinum
castrol edge
 
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Phoetad, welcome to BITOG.

All Honda engines don't demand much from motor oil so you can run virtually anything and enjoy a long engine life so a 5W-30 mineral oil is fine.
If you want to use a synthetic oil for the increased cleanliness and overall higher performance I wouldn't bother with some of the expensive synthetics you've mentioned but would use any syn' that you can get on sale.
If you can get Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 on sale I'd snap it up, because it's the lightest 30wt syn I know off with a HTHS vis of only 2.9 cP. You'll be maximizing your cars fuel economy and performance.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
Friend's 05 rsx sees redline at least once a day and shifts all day at 4-5k on Valvoline Synpower 5w-30. He does 5k oil changes and the oil comes out pure. The camshafts looks to be in excellent condition with no varnish. I run synpower in my k24 engine as well. Smooth as can be. the only oil my friends and i would disagree upon is m1 products. 3 friends including myself have k series engine where we noticed rougher engines:

Oil appearance, lack of varnish with 5k intervals in a modern engine, and perceptions of NVH are all classic examples of things that tell you virtually nothing about how the oil is working.
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Hi good luck with the 09 Honda as I understand there is a special ff with tons of moly and you are suppose to keep the ff in till olm hits 15 % the Advance deal for $30 is for Edge not Syntec I think it might be better if you go along with convential for break in. Just look further search other threads re. this subject ff and moly.
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Originally Posted By: Phoetad
Hello guys,

I'm kinda stumped here... I'm looking to do my first oil change from the factory oil that is currently in it. I'm planning on switching to synthetic, due to the fact that I just want to baby it, and get the best performance, economy, and engine life out of it. I'm pretty unsure of what to use. I have heard nothing but good things about Royal Purple, which is what I was planning on going with, but it is pretty pricey... And I've heard claims that the K20 engine wouldn't benefit from it too much more than a cheaper brand of synthetic.
I've also heard that the oil life of Royal Purple isn't too high, someone somewhere, albeit possibly retarded, said 2000 miles. I find this hard to believe as the RP website claims 12000. If it's really actually worth it, the price isn't really an issue. I just want to make sure that I couldn't be getting basically the same results from something a bit cheaper, and if so, some recommendations would be fantastic. I've heard good things about Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline and the such. My local Advanced has a pretty awesome deal going on now, which is what the dude there recommended... Castrol Syntec 5w30? 5 Quarts + a K&N filter for $30. But from what I hear Castrol Syntec isn't even fully synthetic. So, I just don't know! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I do tend to run it hard at times, and since it's a high revving engine, I'm sure this has some impact on what I should choose. Regardless of what I choose, I'm probably going want to change it every 6,000 miles or so.


1. What kind of vehicle you have:
2009 Honda Civic SI, currently stock, planning on a cold air intake soon... But other than that, no further upgrades in the near future.

2. What your owner's manual says:
It doesn't say too much... Basically just the API certification seal, 5w-30, may use 10w-30 if the temperature is never below 20 degrees F.

3. Where you live:
Richmond, Virginia. The weather here is extremely random, the summer brought temps in the 100's. I'm unsure what the winter will bring.

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Generally I go for economy, but I still drive pretty fast... And I definitely get on it pretty regularly.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
I'd say I drive about 60 miles a day, between work, and just being out and about. I'd say about 50/50 city/highway.

6. Whether your car has any known problems
Nope, Just got it... It's a 2009, but it only had 2600 miles. Still on the factory oil.


Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: Phoetad
2. What your owner's manual says:
It doesn't say too much... Basically just the API certification seal, 5w-30, may use 10w-30 if the temperature is never below 20 degrees F.


I'm a Royal Purple fan, but point two may be cause for concern. RP oils are all rated SL, except for 0w-40 and 5w-40, which meet SM and a bunch of European specs. If you want to use the manual specified viscosity, you'll get SL. If you want to use the manual specified SM, you'll get 0w-40 or 5w-40.

If you're worried about warranty, RP may not be the way to go, unless you are confident you can get coverage from RP if something goes wrong. We do know that 99% of the time, they'll never be an issue, but it is something to consider.
 
from a few of these current body style si's i have pulled the valve covers off of i'll say they tend to have cam wear, so chose an oil that will help in this respect, i've heard german castrol is good with cam wear but i'm sure others out there will be good as well.
 
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