oil for 2000 328ci

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Hey guys I have a good friend picking up a 2000 328ci (M52B28 dual vanos) with 79k miles on the clock this weekend. The car is a one owner vehicle that has been fed 10w60 (castrol motorsport oil) which is a waste of money i believe but the guy owns an M5 and M coupe which it calls for so he just buys large cases at once, better a good oil then some crap though. So anywho the vehicle will reside in San Diego...It won't see below 50 for the most part year around...basically 60-90 degrees. I have had the `95 m3 S50 motor in a E30 318is which I ran chevron supreme 20w50 and seemed to do fine and i currently have a `95 318ti (m42) which runs the same 20w50, granted both my past bmw and present bmw see redline many times a day w/o any issues. BMW's seem to like the thicker oils in these warm temps or so many bmw shops have told me. My ideas were Castrol Syntec 20w50...Mobil 1 15w50, what do you guys think? Thanks for any inpnut.

[ May 28, 2005, 05:20 AM: Message edited by: windnsea00 ]
 
I would use an oil that is BMW LL-98 or BMW LL-01 rated.

Castrol GC 0W-30 (German) and BC 5w-40 (Belgian) and Mobil 1 0w-40 are probably the one's you are likely to be able to find at Walmart / Autozone etc. The BMW 5w-30 from the dealers is not a bad oil either.
 
quote:

Originally posted by shanneba:
I would use an oil that is BMW LL-98 or BMW LL-01 rated.

Castrol GC 0W-30 (German) and BC 5w-40 (Belgian) and Mobil 1 0w-40 are probably the one's you are likely to be able to find at Walmart / Autozone etc. The BMW 5w-30 from the dealers is not a bad oil either.


Thanks for the quick response but why would i go down to a 0w in such a warm climate? I figured 10w is the least i need to go down to in San Diego.
 
quote:

Originally posted by windnsea00:

quote:

Originally posted by shanneba:
I would use an oil that is BMW LL-98 or BMW LL-01 rated.

Castrol GC 0W-30 (German) and BC 5w-40 (Belgian) and Mobil 1 0w-40 are probably the one's you are likely to be able to find at Walmart / Autozone etc. The BMW 5w-30 from the dealers is not a bad oil either.


Thanks for the quick response but why would i go down to a 0w in such a warm climate? I figured 10w is the least i need to go down to in San Diego.


Apparently the GC 0W-30 is producing excellent results. While it has excellent low-temp performance, it might be thicker than typical 10W-30s at your ambient summer temps. At operating temps, it'll be on the thick end of 30 weight. Just ignore the fact that it's a "0W" oil and concentrate on the results.
 
OK, well i just wanted to make sure since my friend is counting on my advice and the last thing i want to do is put an oil in her car that is too thin for our warm climate.
 
quote:

Originally posted by windnsea00:
OK, well i just wanted to make sure since my friend is counting on my advice and the last thing i want to do is put an oil in her car that is too thin for our warm climate.

Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (must be clearly marked "Made in Germany") specifically meets BMW's LL-01 standard. It would be fine, although the Mobil 1 0W-40 and the Castrol Syntec 5W-40 (made in Belgium) would be fine choices.

That Castrol 10W-60 was a bad idea. It's only supposed to be used for the M engines.
 
quote:

Originally posted by wavinwayne:
Another vote for either Castrol Syntec 0W-30 , M1 0w40, or Castrol Syntec 5w40. Three great oils!

Ah 5w40...at this local auto parts store here for european cars they sell jugs of lubro moly synthetic 5w40...what would be better Lubro Moly or Castrol Syntec? BTW i noticed the Lubro Moly come in 5 liter containers...the M52 takes 7 quarts of oil, so how close is the liter measurement to a quart?
 
Lubro Moly is a good oil (you need their 5W-40 BTW) but I wouldn't say it's better than Syntec 0W-30. At $7/liter you can find much better oils.

60 weight in M52 is a bad idea, I'm surprised previous owner didn't have any Vanos problems, I'm sure he didn't hear any ticking though
wink.gif

Stick to xW-30 or xW-40 oils that meet at least ACEA A3/B3 specs and you'll be fine. Don't get alarmed if the engine starts running louder, it is normal and will get better with time.
My recommendation would be to look for oils in that order: GC, M1 10W-40 EP, M1 5W-40 T&SUV, M1 0W-40, BMW HP 5W-30, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-30, Amsoil Euro and if you still have trouble finding something you like then try some exotics like Motul, Elf, Fuchs, Pentosin.

...and one more thing, you need to buy 7 liters.
 
I'd recommend running Delvac 1, 5w-40 if you want something that is easy to find and cheap. The Mobil 1, 15w-50 is okay too, but unnecessarily thick for a BMW engine that is in good mechanical condition. Other good choices would be the Amsoil 5w-40/10w-40 or the Redline 5w-40/10w-40....

The double vanos, valvetrain design does significantly shear the oil and cause it to thin out, so I'd specifically start with an oil having a high temp, high shear viscosity > 4.0 Cp - AND one like Delvac 1, formulated with little or no polymeric thickener.

Tooslick
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
The double vanos, valvetrain design does significantly shear the oil and cause it to thin out, so I'd specifically start with an oil having a high temp, high shear viscosity > 4.0 Cp - AND one like Delvac 1, formulated with little or no polymeric thickener.

Tooslick


I've actually seen the opposite in my car and to be honest with you I don't remember this to be a problem from UOAs I've seen.
 
quote:

Originally posted by windnsea00:
Thanks for the quick response but why would i go down to a 0w in such a warm climate? I figured 10w is the least i need to go down to in San Diego.

Bugshu puts it very well in the Pennzoil Platinum thread:

QUOTE

Without wanting to offend the elves Ive mused aloud before that perhaps part of the reason that GC posts such wonderful UOA's is that it is a OW (30) oil and that start up wear is reduced. Its pretty rare to see a bad UOA from GC.

Looking down the board on UOA's OW oils seem to do quite well. Its somewhat rare to see a bad UOA from M1 OW (20) oil and Haas's report on his Ferrari was a treat to see. Now Im not claiming to be an expert but Im guessing that his Ferrari puts out more energy and heat than my Honda and still the oil held up well.

Theres a good UOA from a BMW user who went with M1 OW (40) and some smart people are telling him not to change.

There is a Honda Accord that posted up a good UOA with M1 OW (30)and people seemed reasonably impressed.

Quite a few Amsoil OW (30) Uoas have been popping up lately and they have all seemed good except that silicone readings have been a bit high and I dont know if people arent changing filters or if there is something about the oil. Im not enough of an expert to decide what the problem could be.

We had a Saab Turbo running Saab OW (30) oil and Blackstone commented, "Saab engines aren't among the best wearing types we analyze oil from, but your may be the nicest wearing engine we've seen in a week. The level of wear would be normal for a Toyota or Honda, but it is excellent for a Saab. The balance for the metals is perfect for this type and there was nothing found in the wear that would suggest any problems."

Now I could be wrong and perhaps the guy with a spreadsheet would like to comment but it seems that when people use OW oils that generally they get good results. There will always be exceptions to the rule but Im noticing patterns starting to develop.

Those patterns are consistant with what Im reading from Haas and when you add up the numbers you can start getting a feel for the bottom line and that is that OW oils seem to be pretty good at protecting cars.

I think even the Elves would agree though they can get angry when their secrets escape the forest.

Happy Motoring All,



Bugshu

To which I added my $.02: QUOTE The Elves have no "issues" with your analysis or your conclusions...the only thing they were musing out loud as they read your post was, "Too bad that 95% of the world's drivers, even the knowledgeable ones," can't seem to come to grips that a 0W does work in applications for which it is intended, in fact, work very well, and in fact of fact, startup wear is oh so important and at start up a 0W absolutely SHINES." TNX Bugshu for your insights...Happy Holiday!
 
quote:

Originally posted by windnsea00:
[/qb]

Thanks for the quick response but why would i go down to a 0w in such a warm climate? I figured 10w is the least i need to go down to in San Diego. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Windnsea00,

In your warm climate your oil will never see the 0W weight. The CG 0W-30 is a thicker oil at operating temp than most other xW-30 oils. Based on the OUAs on Castrol Syntec 0w-30 "made in Germany" aka GC I am using it in my 330Ci now. I'll post the UOA in about 6 months.
 
I'm now back to using Syntec 5-50 with LC (and FP) for 10k intervals in my BMW as soon as things clean up a bit.

I've tried GC 0-30, BC 5-40 and Syntec 5-50. The 5-50 runs the best. Smooth solid acceleration. No bucking at low speeds. Lowest consumption. No need to change the oil every 3k/3weeks....and hopefully, the lowest wear
smile.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
I'm now back to using Syntec 5-50 with LC (and FP) for 10k intervals in my BMW as soon as things clean up a bit.

I've tried GC 0-30, BC 5-40 and Syntec 5-50. The 5-50 runs the best. Smooth solid acceleration. No bucking at low speeds. Lowest consumption. No need to change the oil every 3k/3weeks....and hopefully, the lowest wear
smile.gif


Syntec 5W-50 is dirt cheap on clearance down here now. Probably means they are going to drop it in this market and GC and BC will be all you can get. Great deals for now and I'm sure AZ can order if asked.
 
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