oil filter tightning

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Wipe off old oil from filter base plate on engine, smear a LIGHT coating of motor oil on the new filter o'ring, hand turn until the filter is snug tight (not over doing it), then go another 1/4 turn. I never had a problem with it being loose or removing it.
 
Don't most filters say oil the gasket and then tighten 2/3 or 3/4 of a turn after the gasket contacts the base plate? Has anybody had trouble after following the directions? Duh? I never have, although I must admit I may not quite make the 2/3 by hand sometimes and call it good enough. I have tried taking them off by hand, but it is easier and quicker to grab my 16'' Channellocks. Great tool, 1,000 other uses a filter wrench would never manage.
 
Hand tight. Most manufacturers say 3/4 turns after the gasket contacts the block. I honestly have no idea when that happens, and I am sure hand tight is more than that specified.
 
I always feel contact, then turn another 3/4 to maybe 1 full turn. Every week when I check the oil, I always feel around the gasket for leaks (never have any) and make sure I can still turn the filter a little bit by hand. Have been doing that ever since the time it took me until 3 or 4 in the morning to get a filter to budge.
 
Rather than getting a hand cramp installing from an awkward position, I use a strap wrench. That's what tools are for! Once it contacts the base (I have no trouble telling when that happens), I simply follow directions and tighten it to specification, usually 3/4 turn. I see no ambiguity in this procedure.

I like to lightly butter the rubber gasket on the oil filter with silicone. This makes installation and removal a breeze.
 
cool i just wanted to make sure that most people did it the same way i do.id hate to have on ecome loose and fly off on me.even if the engine didnt blow up before i realized i have no oil pressure it would still make a big mess
 
Even at hand tight, the most you'll probably get is a slow leak. When a filter flies off suddenly, there was a much greater problem than just the tightness. I just don't like oil all over the underside of my truck and on my driveway, so I give it an extra 1/4 turn to keep leaks at bay.
 
Tighten with a breaker bar until the nipple's threads strip. Then stop just short thereafter on the replacement nipple. What is it about "hand tighten" people can't grasp? (yeah, there's a pun there)
 
Hand tight is good for most filters. However hand tighten is relative to the tighteners hand.

I usually follow the instructions on my filter box to tighten 3/4 of 1 turn after gasket contacts base. I've tested and my "hand tight" is approx 1/2 to 5/8 turn after filter contact base. Likely plenty good, with no leaks. I do need a wrench to get it off though, regardless of installation method.

I use a cap-style wrench on my socket drive and never have a problem with removal.

I also use mechanics surgical gloves i bought at pep-boys. It's nice to finish the oil change, take the gloves off and my hands are still nice and clean. They also help a great deal with grabbing a hot filter.
 
What often limits me on the 'hand tightening' is I've owned a few cars that had oil filters in very unfortunate locations....a cap wrench was needed to get it to a legitimate 'hand tight'.

I bought a set of mechanic's gloves at Pep Boys for my last oil change....rubber palms and a stretchy-mesh on the back side. Nice for grabbing (and tightening) slippery oil filters. I did get some oil on the mesh, which quickly soaked in, but I washed them in the sink and hung to dry...good as new...too bad they're not rubberized all over.
 
For the cans, hand tighten, typically 1/2-3/4 turn after contact. For the cartridge types, the tightening torque is often embossed on the canister. I suspect most dealers are using the five-digit torque wrench on those, too.

These aren't seeing high PSIs as hydraulic systems go, so there's no need to make it into rocket science. But for those who must, I suggest a torque angle gauge at exactly 304 degrees.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ray H:
Tighten with a breaker bar until the nipple's threads strip. Then stop just short thereafter on the replacement nipple. What is it about "hand tighten" people can't grasp? (yeah, there's a pun there)

I thought it was "tighten until it gets loose, then back off 1/4 turn"
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Seriously, what's wrong with the instructions on the box? I don't understand what's so hard about following them...
 
realdeal, I get the impression you're a novice. Don't be afraid to have some confidence in yourself. You'll probably do a much better job than some oil jockey at a quicky lube place. Search "jiffy lube" and you'll get hours of reading some horror stories.
 
i probably over-tighten. 3/4 of a turn after the gasket makes contact with the block just doesnt feel secure to me. so, for peace of mind i just hand tighten until it feels snug.
 
Forget about oil filter..how about drain plug...
Holy c r a p.. my friends was air wrenched on so tight, I had to bang on the rachet with a hammer just to losen it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by labman:
Don't most filters say oil the gasket and then tighten 2/3 or 3/4 of a turn after the gasket contacts the base plate? Has anybody had trouble after following the directions? Duh? I never have, although I must admit I may not quite make the 2/3 by hand sometimes and call it good enough. I have tried taking them off by hand, but it is easier and quicker to grab my 16'' Channellocks. Great tool, 1,000 other uses a filter wrench would never manage.

Thats pretty much what I do, just to contact than 2/3 further (3/4 if it was an easy 2/3). I have a little piece of cushion gum I use for traction when taking them off by hand...
 
3/4 turn for me (after the filter first contacts the base). I use a smooth filter wrench to tighten 'cause I don't have the hand strength I used to. Just make sure your wrench doesn't gouge into the filter while tightening.
 
Well, just how tight is "hand tight"?
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Not everyone has the same strength, so the manufacturers use "turn __ turn after gasket contact" instructions. I just changed my oil a few minutes ago, used a Texaco Havoline T-35 filter(appears to be a restenciled Purolator Premium Plus L14670). The instructions on the box said to tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contact- so I went one full turn , & used the old reliable hinged Lisle strap wrench for the last 1/2 turn.

Of course, your decision may vary.
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