Oil / filter suggestions for 2012 Hyundai Elantra
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Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Here Hyundai states a leaf spring is better than a coil spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEfmPFRaoNo
Wow......fake oil filters. That is awful. And a quick way to lose an engine.
Here Hyundai states a leaf spring is better than a coil spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEfmPFRaoNo
Wow......fake oil filters. That is awful. And a quick way to lose an engine.
Hey milehigh,
Where do you get the filters online? I drive 40K per year and my wife's car uses the same filter and my two civics so I'm interested. Is it from a dealer? Don't want the fake filter dealeo. Thanks.
Where do you get the filters online? I drive 40K per year and my wife's car uses the same filter and my two civics so I'm interested. Is it from a dealer? Don't want the fake filter dealeo. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
Hey milehigh,
Where do you get the filters online? I drive 40K per year and my wife's car uses the same filter and my two civics so I'm interested. Is it from a dealer? Don't want the fake filter dealeo. Thanks.
I bought mine from this place last year- they are the real deal as far as I can tell. I always keep the part# from the box and write the OCI on it and toss it in the file... just in case!
http://www.hyundaiaccessorystore.com/
Be sure to register with them first- get 11% off. They do send emails usually around the holidays for free shipping, etc.
Hey milehigh,
Where do you get the filters online? I drive 40K per year and my wife's car uses the same filter and my two civics so I'm interested. Is it from a dealer? Don't want the fake filter dealeo. Thanks.
I bought mine from this place last year- they are the real deal as far as I can tell. I always keep the part# from the box and write the OCI on it and toss it in the file... just in case!
http://www.hyundaiaccessorystore.com/
Be sure to register with them first- get 11% off. They do send emails usually around the holidays for free shipping, etc.
With this heatwave I decided to go to synthetic early, put in M1 5w-20 with a Hyundai filter at 4800 mi., will do a 7500 OCI and get an analysis and post it and see what you all think.
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
With this heatwave I decided to go to synthetic early, put in M1 5w-20 with a Hyundai filter at 4800 mi., will do a 7500 OCI and get an analysis and post it and see what you all think.
Usually a uoa on a new engine just shows higher than normal wear metals. I doubt the heat makes syn oil necessary. I live outside of Redding Calif and I like the heat though 99% of the time the killer humidity isn't a problem. Today was 97* nice temps to do yard work and then split firewood.
With this heatwave I decided to go to synthetic early, put in M1 5w-20 with a Hyundai filter at 4800 mi., will do a 7500 OCI and get an analysis and post it and see what you all think.
Usually a uoa on a new engine just shows higher than normal wear metals. I doubt the heat makes syn oil necessary. I live outside of Redding Calif and I like the heat though 99% of the time the killer humidity isn't a problem. Today was 97* nice temps to do yard work and then split firewood.
The new Hyundais seem so impressive. A bypass filter will shine when greatly extending oil change intervals.
Hey Steve S so do you think uoa would be wasting $ now? I lean towards periodic compulsive disorders dealing with my cars, so I probably won't be using best deal synthetic but will stick with one and I was concerned with excessive wear with M1. I returned QSUD and bought the M1. And if it works out and it gets there Amsoil 0w-20 or M1E and bypass and extended oci after 100k may be the way to go and uoa then? Yesterday I got 54.5 mpg on the 80 mile commute to work and 50.4 coming home with a few shopping stops. FE is sick with this car.
So rather than getting any noticeable increase in mpg with M1 5w-20 I seem to now have a slight decrease in mpg. I know there are many factors which may make this not necessarily so but I drive a lot of miles and it takes little time in similar conditions to notice a difference. I don't want to mess with the warranty and use 0w-20 yet BUT I will try another synthetic next change and would like to know what to look for in a synthetic that may make it more mpg friendly. Or is it simply by trial?
Patman
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Originally Posted By: schuylkill
I don't want to mess with the warranty and use 0w-20 yet BUT I will try another synthetic next change and would like to know what to look for in a synthetic that may make it more mpg friendly. Or is it simply by trial?
I would start by comparing the viscosity at 40c and try to find the one with the lowest number. You lose a lot of MPG in the first few miles after you start a cold engine, so the thinner your oil is during this time, the greater your gains are going to be.
I don't want to mess with the warranty and use 0w-20 yet BUT I will try another synthetic next change and would like to know what to look for in a synthetic that may make it more mpg friendly. Or is it simply by trial?
I would start by comparing the viscosity at 40c and try to find the one with the lowest number. You lose a lot of MPG in the first few miles after you start a cold engine, so the thinner your oil is during this time, the greater your gains are going to be.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Here Hyundai states a leaf spring is better than a coil spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEfmPFRaoNo
I believe the video is referring fake Hyundai oil filters, ie., a something like a Chinese knock off of the oem Hyundai filter. I also do not believe a detent coil spring is inferior to a leaf spring design.
Imo, there are many good aftermarket filters that will work just as well as the Hyundai filter, but if the OEM can be had for a low price, they appear well made.
As for the oil, the dealer I go to uses a bulk 5w20 syn blend, I believe it is a Kendall/Conoco oil, like GT-1 or Motorcraft Syn Blend. IMO, any 5w20 that meets specs like QS Green or others, will work just fine for owners manual OCI's. Which under warranty, you should follow.
Here Hyundai states a leaf spring is better than a coil spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEfmPFRaoNo
I believe the video is referring fake Hyundai oil filters, ie., a something like a Chinese knock off of the oem Hyundai filter. I also do not believe a detent coil spring is inferior to a leaf spring design.
Imo, there are many good aftermarket filters that will work just as well as the Hyundai filter, but if the OEM can be had for a low price, they appear well made.
As for the oil, the dealer I go to uses a bulk 5w20 syn blend, I believe it is a Kendall/Conoco oil, like GT-1 or Motorcraft Syn Blend. IMO, any 5w20 that meets specs like QS Green or others, will work just fine for owners manual OCI's. Which under warranty, you should follow.
Hate to contradict but I just ordered a 2012 Elantra for a family member and it is a 1.8 GDI engine. I believe that only the Elantra touring station wagon retains the 2.0 MFI engine for 2012.
I do want to bump this thread and piggyback with my own question I have heard that there many be the POSSIBILITY of fuel dilution issues and intake valve build-up with GDI engines.
I wonder if an ester based oil maybe the way to go, perhaps Mobil 1 0w-40. Any thoughts from the BITOG faithful?
Originally Posted By: cmf
Originally Posted By: Gene K
I would get a UOA simply because some of the Direct Injection Engines (Not Hyundai specifically) are having issues with fuel dilution. If that occurs you may want to shorten the drain interval to 5000 or 3750 miles depending on how severe it is.
The 2012 Elantra that is sold in North America is a MPI engine, not DI. I think people assume it's DI because the gas mileage is amazing for a compact (beats the sub-compacts). I test drove an Elantra and I really liked it, it was peppy for a compact (even with the AC on).
The Hyundai filter is a good filter, there will be no issue using it.
I wouldn't use QS just because the manual recommends it, those recommendations are.. silly. I personally would use a synthetic for 7,500, that's what I do with my Sonata. That's just my opinion though, I'm sure you could use a conventional for 7,500 with similar results.
My opinion on the bypass is that if you can uninstall it without the dealer knowing it was ever there, go for it. If not, I would wait until the warranty was over. While I would not expect you to have any issues during the warranty period, it would be awful if you did have an issue and could not get it taken care of. Plus that 100k warranty is a huge selling point for a lot of people, it'd be a shame to waste it!
I do want to bump this thread and piggyback with my own question I have heard that there many be the POSSIBILITY of fuel dilution issues and intake valve build-up with GDI engines.
I wonder if an ester based oil maybe the way to go, perhaps Mobil 1 0w-40. Any thoughts from the BITOG faithful?
Originally Posted By: cmf
Originally Posted By: Gene K
I would get a UOA simply because some of the Direct Injection Engines (Not Hyundai specifically) are having issues with fuel dilution. If that occurs you may want to shorten the drain interval to 5000 or 3750 miles depending on how severe it is.
The 2012 Elantra that is sold in North America is a MPI engine, not DI. I think people assume it's DI because the gas mileage is amazing for a compact (beats the sub-compacts). I test drove an Elantra and I really liked it, it was peppy for a compact (even with the AC on).
The Hyundai filter is a good filter, there will be no issue using it.
I wouldn't use QS just because the manual recommends it, those recommendations are.. silly. I personally would use a synthetic for 7,500, that's what I do with my Sonata. That's just my opinion though, I'm sure you could use a conventional for 7,500 with similar results.
My opinion on the bypass is that if you can uninstall it without the dealer knowing it was ever there, go for it. If not, I would wait until the warranty was over. While I would not expect you to have any issues during the warranty period, it would be awful if you did have an issue and could not get it taken care of. Plus that 100k warranty is a huge selling point for a lot of people, it'd be a shame to waste it!
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sorry meant to say an ester based oil ...OR... perhaps Mobil 1 0w-40
The 2011/12 Elantra does not have a GDI engine, the 2012 Accent has a 1.6L GDI engine though perhaps you got confused
edit SEBZX79 beat me to it
edit SEBZX79 beat me to it
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As Rosanne Rosanadana would say "Never Mind!"
Although I will say that the 29/40 EPA MPG is quite impressive considering that it isn't a GDI.
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Yes I am very happy with the mileage on my 2011 so far. No complaints about power for normal driving either.
Quote:
So rather than getting any noticeable increase in mpg with M1 5w-20 I seem to now have a slight decrease in mpg. I know there are many factors which may make this not necessarily so but I drive a lot of miles and it takes little time in similar conditions to notice a difference. I don't want to mess with the warranty and use 0w-20 yet BUT I will try another synthetic next change and would like to know what to look for in a synthetic that may make it more mpg friendly. Or is it simply by trial?
I am still seeing a drop off in mpg, having to work much harder to try and maintain my average (which is vg @ 46 mpg but I am wanting more.) I feel I was doing better with PYB then I am now with M1. Have put 1300 miles on M1. I think I will try a Pennzoil synthetic next change, maybe just go 5K with M1. What are thoughts on getting UOA at this stage?
So rather than getting any noticeable increase in mpg with M1 5w-20 I seem to now have a slight decrease in mpg. I know there are many factors which may make this not necessarily so but I drive a lot of miles and it takes little time in similar conditions to notice a difference. I don't want to mess with the warranty and use 0w-20 yet BUT I will try another synthetic next change and would like to know what to look for in a synthetic that may make it more mpg friendly. Or is it simply by trial?
I am still seeing a drop off in mpg, having to work much harder to try and maintain my average (which is vg @ 46 mpg but I am wanting more.) I feel I was doing better with PYB then I am now with M1. Have put 1300 miles on M1. I think I will try a Pennzoil synthetic next change, maybe just go 5K with M1. What are thoughts on getting UOA at this stage?
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schuylkill I'm not sure what a UOA would tell you anything that would help mpg. Would you get it just out of curiosity or are you planning to extend oil life to its max? Most people seem to wait until their 2nd or 3rd fill of an oil before getting a UOA if they switch brands.
Stopped by WM and got some prices on the jugs:
QSUD $20.57
PP $24.97
PU $27.57
So I'll pick one and give it a go. Hopefully there will be a sale which will help me decide. Perhaps I'll start with the QSUD and if that gets me back where I want to be with mpg I'll run it and use PU occasionally for its cleansing. Maybe there are other factors at work but I am consistently 1-3 mpg lower than I was with PYB. I want to go for 7500k oci and will feel better with a synthetic. Maybe after a couple or so 7500k changes I'll get the UOA to see how goes it.
QSUD $20.57
PP $24.97
PU $27.57
So I'll pick one and give it a go. Hopefully there will be a sale which will help me decide. Perhaps I'll start with the QSUD and if that gets me back where I want to be with mpg I'll run it and use PU occasionally for its cleansing. Maybe there are other factors at work but I am consistently 1-3 mpg lower than I was with PYB. I want to go for 7500k oci and will feel better with a synthetic. Maybe after a couple or so 7500k changes I'll get the UOA to see how goes it.
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