Oil Filter Magnet
- Thread starter tutermoe
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it is a good insurance against metal!
Yes I use a genuine filter mag. I haven't got a chance to cut open a filter with one but of any of the ones that I see cut open using them they all form a metallic paste in the shape of the magnetic field. The magnet is still hard to pull off at changes so I know it's got some force left
I believe ideal placement of magnets would be directly inside the middle of a spin on center tube so it will attract only metal that can fit through the pores of the element. I would be cautious dropping magnets inside your filter but if you get the correct high temperature neodymium magnets and seat it well you can retrieve the magnet without cutting the filter open for inspection purposes.
I believe ideal placement of magnets would be directly inside the middle of a spin on center tube so it will attract only metal that can fit through the pores of the element. I would be cautious dropping magnets inside your filter but if you get the correct high temperature neodymium magnets and seat it well you can retrieve the magnet without cutting the filter open for inspection purposes.
How about the adapter/insert magnet that goes between filter and mounting base? The company that sells Magnefine filters makes them.
Take a look at the picture of this cut open filter using a filter mag:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3386247/Cut_Open_Bosch_D+_D3330_in_use
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3386247/Cut_Open_Bosch_D+_D3330_in_use
Yep you can see the metallic paste in the shape of the magnets
I use a filter magnet that wraps around half the outside of the can. I don't know for certain if it does anything good or not, but it was cheap so I figured I'd throw it on there. I've been using it for about 3-4 years now, but I've never cut a filter open so I don't know what's going on inside the can.
I wonder how a fram ultra steel mesh media is afftectedted indirectly by magnet I mean that would also pretty much suck magneticly affected particule?
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yep you can see the metallic paste in the shape of the magnets
Another as an example-
Found here: Driveworks DW-4459 Cut Open
That one was only ~3,800 miles.
Yep you can see the metallic paste in the shape of the magnets
Another as an example-
Found here: Driveworks DW-4459 Cut Open
That one was only ~3,800 miles.
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Originally Posted By: FetchFar
A strong magnet used as a drain plug works about as good, easier.
Yes and Gold plug makes some of the strongest ones too, its on my to buy list!
A strong magnet used as a drain plug works about as good, easier.
Yes and Gold plug makes some of the strongest ones too, its on my to buy list!
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
A strong magnet used as a drain plug works about as good, easier.
Yes and Gold plug makes some of the strongest ones too, its on my to buy list!
I've got a gold plug. great brand, power. Most of the cheap magnets available at cheap auto parts stores are too weak.
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
A strong magnet used as a drain plug works about as good, easier.
Yes and Gold plug makes some of the strongest ones too, its on my to buy list!
I've got a gold plug. great brand, power. Most of the cheap magnets available at cheap auto parts stores are too weak.
Originally Posted By: yvon_la
I wonder how a fram ultra steel mesh media is afftectedted indirectly by magnet I mean that would also pretty much suck magneticly affected particule?
The magnet would have no effect on the steel mesh on the FU. I have a filtermag on my Ultra right now but it will be quite a while before i cut this one open, probably going to run this filter 20-25k miles.
I wonder how a fram ultra steel mesh media is afftectedted indirectly by magnet I mean that would also pretty much suck magneticly affected particule?
The magnet would have no effect on the steel mesh on the FU. I have a filtermag on my Ultra right now but it will be quite a while before i cut this one open, probably going to run this filter 20-25k miles.
by the look of the picture it seems that magnet omn the filter does actually trap more material then the magnetic plug so I think both are a good idea
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Without the magnet, wouldn't the ferrous material large enough to damage an engine just collect in the filter media anyway?
Filter magnet companies don't want you to think this way.
Without the magnet, wouldn't the ferrous material large enough to damage an engine just collect in the filter media anyway?
Filter magnet companies don't want you to think this way.
Some of the material would be collected by the filter media depending on what size the particles are and what the filter is rated for but trapping it before it goes into the element gives the element a chance to be used on non ferrous particles. This could potentially extend filter life.
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Without the magnet, wouldn't the ferrous material large enough to damage an engine just collect in the filter media anyway?
When I posted the Driveworks cut open above, Jim Allen posted some great details on the topic (copied below). Personally I wouldn't lose sleep not having one.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
What I always wonder about magnets is how much of the stuff that attaches to the filter wall would have been caught in the filter anyway. Plus, the amount of ferrous metal in some engines is a very small part of the total contamination. Is it really worth the money to re-address something the filter is already addressing?
As a group we are generally agreed that within the "normal" threshold of full flow filtration efficiency, the differences in wear between "normal" and "high efficiency" filtration is small. Using that argument, some considering spending more than $5 on a filter a serious waste. They would also say spending the extra money for a Filtermag or somesuch. I essentially agree but will go with the highest efficiency filtration I can find within a reasonable-to-me cost basis. No engine ever died from oil that was too clean, after all.
Filtermag has an interesting analysis posted (go here: Report, showing a big drop in small particles. Note also that when you look at the UOA that went with the really good particle count the wear spectrographic wear metals don't look much different than the others that didn't have the Filtermag. Does that mean the Filtermag had no appreciable effect on wear? I put another magnetic product on two of my tractors and sent the oil thru similar analysis and got similar results. My particle count wasn't nearly as good as the one the Filtermag shows but the UOA wear metals were essentially the same leading to the impression at least that it had little effect on engine wear.
Anyway, two oil analysis and PCs don't prove or disprove the concept. I can see the potential value in it with some engines that normally shed a lot of iron... old school flat tappet, pushrod engines with Morse timing chains mostly. Most iron comes off the cam of a flat tappet engine, the Morse chain and rocker arms. A modern roller cam/rocker engine with a lot of aluminum parts and a belt-type external timing chain would probably NOT be a good ROI candidate for the extra expenditure due to not having these iron shedding parts.
Without the magnet, wouldn't the ferrous material large enough to damage an engine just collect in the filter media anyway?
When I posted the Driveworks cut open above, Jim Allen posted some great details on the topic (copied below). Personally I wouldn't lose sleep not having one.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
What I always wonder about magnets is how much of the stuff that attaches to the filter wall would have been caught in the filter anyway. Plus, the amount of ferrous metal in some engines is a very small part of the total contamination. Is it really worth the money to re-address something the filter is already addressing?
As a group we are generally agreed that within the "normal" threshold of full flow filtration efficiency, the differences in wear between "normal" and "high efficiency" filtration is small. Using that argument, some considering spending more than $5 on a filter a serious waste. They would also say spending the extra money for a Filtermag or somesuch. I essentially agree but will go with the highest efficiency filtration I can find within a reasonable-to-me cost basis. No engine ever died from oil that was too clean, after all.
Filtermag has an interesting analysis posted (go here: Report, showing a big drop in small particles. Note also that when you look at the UOA that went with the really good particle count the wear spectrographic wear metals don't look much different than the others that didn't have the Filtermag. Does that mean the Filtermag had no appreciable effect on wear? I put another magnetic product on two of my tractors and sent the oil thru similar analysis and got similar results. My particle count wasn't nearly as good as the one the Filtermag shows but the UOA wear metals were essentially the same leading to the impression at least that it had little effect on engine wear.
Anyway, two oil analysis and PCs don't prove or disprove the concept. I can see the potential value in it with some engines that normally shed a lot of iron... old school flat tappet, pushrod engines with Morse timing chains mostly. Most iron comes off the cam of a flat tappet engine, the Morse chain and rocker arms. A modern roller cam/rocker engine with a lot of aluminum parts and a belt-type external timing chain would probably NOT be a good ROI candidate for the extra expenditure due to not having these iron shedding parts.
I put a hard drive magnet on the oil pan next to the drain.
When I drain the oil I take the magnet off so most of the sludge is swept away with the draining oil.
When I drain the oil I take the magnet off so most of the sludge is swept away with the draining oil.
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