Oil consumption on my Toyota 22r only at full thro

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Yes it's true after running Auto-Rx in my Toyota 22r powered truck the oil consumption has stabilized as long as I'm not pulling my enclosed trailer. However pulling my 6 x 12 enclosed trailer for my business especially on the freeway requires full throttle in all the gears [I try to avoid the freeway for this reason] oil is consumed at an very high rate. 3/4 of a quart per tank of gas. If I spend more time on the freeway it can be as high as 1.5 quart per tank of gas. So where is the oil escaping to? Leaky valve seals?
 
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 Originally Posted By: addyguy
Lots of engines burn more oil under hard highway use. Not realy anything to worry about.
Really? You wouldn't worry about burning 1.5 quarts of oil every tank of gas? I had a Toyota with the 22r engine and it never used any oil, that engine was bulletproof. I'd be very worried if it had started using that much oil.
 
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Very hard used engines typically run very hot, thinning the oil where it becomes more volitile. Mix that with having some issues wether they are sticky rings, or leaky whatever, and you lose a bunch of oil. You could do alot of things, from switch to a thicker oil, adding an oil cooler (greater volume of oil at cooler temp may or may not slow things down), or taking it to the shop. To doing nothing but continuing your routine.
 

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 Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Could also be a PCV issue. Check the valve and the hoses.
PCV is in good working order. Truck used very little oil over the winter months when I did snow blowing [no trailer pulling] when I used Pen Plat 5w-30. As soon as the 22r gets hammered with full throttle pulling the enclosed trailer at highway speeds [wind drag] then the oil consumption goes up dramatically. Truck is basically hammered to keep up with faster traffic. Been pouring in Delo 400 15w-40 to keep it full. Truck does not leak any oil but I am getting concerned about the catalytic converter with amount of oil being burnt. I'm thinking of switching to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-40 to see if that will help. I have one bottle of Auto-Rx left but I'm beginning to wonder if Pen Platinum and or Mobil 1 High Mileage cleans sludge out just as well as Auto-Rx? Truck has less than 150,000 miles and is a 1985 but many of those miles are in town. I really should get a beefier truck for my business but I need more confidence inspiring $$$ numbers to justify a more stout tow vehicle.
 
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How about the vent that goes from the air cleaner to the engine block or valve cover? If anything restricts flow there, sometimes it has a dramatic effect on the PCV system.
 
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Continuous full throttle operation is very hard on the engine due to the elevated temperature. In track conditions, many people keep a very close watch on oil temps. You might see better results with a straight 40 weight oil in your application, if you do not require the cold flow of a multigrade oil.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Chris142
I'd step it up to 20w50. Those 20/22r's love it.
+1 I put 335000 miles on a 22R with nothing but dino 20w-50 and it never burned a drop.
 
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That's a big trailer to pull with 115hp, when I tow high drag loads with my tracker(127hp) I sometimes have to run it in 4th at 55mph to keep the throttle somewhere near 1/2. I think its better to bump the revs with a downshift or two instead of full throttle at low rpms. I also won't run it near full throttle for more than a minute or two, I'd rather run the 4 ways for a hill especially if people can easily pass me like on a freeway.
 
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At that rate of consumption, you should be seeing the evidence somewhere. If there's no smoke or you don't have an air cleaner full of oil (going out the vent) ..then I'd wager that your oil temps are so high that it's pre-burned before it ever hits the combustion chamber to be rehashed. It's just unusual to have it not show everywhere. If your cooling system is up to snuff, I too would throw on a laminar cooler (sandwich between the block and the oil filter). It should bring the temps down a good bit.
 

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 Originally Posted By: IndyIan
That's a big trailer to pull with 115hp, when I tow high drag loads with my tracker(127hp) I sometimes have to run it in 4th at 55mph to keep the throttle somewhere near 1/2. I think its better to bump the revs with a downshift or two instead of full throttle at low rpms. I also won't run it near full throttle for more than a minute or two, I'd rather run the 4 ways for a hill especially if people can easily pass me like on a freeway.
The truck is actually only 105 or 107 hp since it has the carb not fuel injection. The wind drag is the biggest factor. Trailer rarely gets over #2200 in weight. Even my 91 4runner with a V6 150 hp struggles with this same trailer. I have driven it full throttle for as long as 15 min or so. What is odd I have never noticed any white smoke when driving full throttle. Since I'm driving its tough to tell for sure. Many years ago the truck used to puff white smoke on cold startup but I believe that has disappeared. I did run Auto-Rx a few years back but I wasn't pulling this trailer back then. The laminar oil cooler that just spins on sounds like a plan. Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-40 just might be the ticket since this oil just might be fairly close to a 20w-50 wt on the high end. But has the advantage of the lofty cleaning of sludge claim. But maybe just using a 20w-50 dino oil with my last bottle of Auto-Rx will do wonders with all the extra heat produced and put a hold on the cooler until the Auto-Rx run is over? Over the winter [no trailer pulling] I added a little extra Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 to top off it original fill of the same. I specifically ran this oil to help continue the internal cleanup. "46% sludge reduction" ....? I have been torn on this whole Auto-Rx vs. the sludge fighting motor oils debate like PP and Mobil 1 HM.
 
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I would be a bit hesitant to do your full throttle trailer towing with auto rx in. Probably wouldn't matter but just to be safe... Also I think the oil cooler Gary is talking about actually uses engine coolant to cool the oil so it would add a bit more load to your cooling system.
 

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 Originally Posted By: IndyIan
I would be a bit hesitant to do your full throttle trailer towing with auto rx in. Probably wouldn't matter but just to be safe.........
Why would this be so?
 
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I'm no auto rx expert but its not engine oil, the MSDS say fatty acids and lanolin esters? Maybe its just flax seed oil? Obviouisly you can get away with diluting engine oil 16:1 with autorx driving normally but WO for minutes at a time makes me want to run just engine oil, and good oil at that.
 
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The flow differential makes it pretty invisible. It's surely there, but you can lower oil temps (probably) 20+F ..while maybe adding 2-3F to the coolant. On my 2.5 ..it lowered coolant temps in hot weather with the air on. I'd normally push 210F ..195f after install. I can't intelligently explain it.
 
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That is a bit strange about dropping the coolant temps that much... I could see the oil never really warming up idling in traffic but that's alot of heat to dissipate into the oil. I'm actually thinking about getting one of those laminar oil coolers for its ability to heat the oil, especially in winter. My Neon usually never gets above 185F on the highway in the winter so I wonder what the oil ever gets to? I'll have to get an oil temp gauge to know for sure but I suspect the oil is a bit cooler. I'd think bringing it equal to the water temp would be good idea.
 

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Looks like I'm going to switch over to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-40 this weekend and I will chart the oil consumption closely. I don't expect it to stop but I hope it does slow down. If consumption doesn't slow down I will begin adding Mobil 1 15w-50 for the rest of the warmer months. If in fact oil temps are extremely high I'm having doubts about running a dino 20w-50.
 
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