Oil consumption 1997 LX450 and Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

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Andrewsreef

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Jacksonville, FL
I just had the headgasket replaced (somewhat common problem with these trucks) and now have 1600 miles on the oil. The shop put in Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. When I checked the oil at 1000 miles I was still full. At 1,600 miles, I was about 1.2 quarts low. Would switching to Rotella T full synthetic help with the burning issue? I have no leaks anymore and the truck does not smoke (even at startup).

I was hoping this truck would not burn oil as I plan on doing 5k OCIs. Having to add 3 quarts during this time would be a pain.

Thanks

ANdrew

Thanks for the help.
 
Give it some time. It may take a few thousand miles for the consumption to level off. A new oil with different chemistry may have that consumption problem you see. It will revert back to the engine's original consumption or maybe less.

Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W-40 is an excellent oil that may be good for 10,000 mile ODI if your engine is relatively tight. If you want 5,000 mile ODI, why not use a good 15W-40? It'll do the job and save you money.


Ken
 
Yeah ..what he said
grin.gif
M1 T&SUV is about the most potent package available in its class ...at probably just about any reasonable price. It should handle 10k without breathing heavy.
 
First things first. I would run a botle or two of Auto-Rx through it first! If you head gasket let loose your engine needs this! What type of oil and OCI has this vechile seen up to this point? How many miles on the vechile. The oil burning is new to me! I have never known this engine to burn any oil between oil changes with a decent oil. A cheap 5W30 will burn in almost anything and will also stick up thee rings. A blown head gasket will cause sludeing and can also stick your rings up. This is eespecialy true if their was ever an over heat situation.

Now the old stovebolt six knock off used early on in the FJ40's was oil burner.
 
The heasgasket is fairly common on this year truck (as I have researched and on 4 4unner pre-1996 as I have seen several of these). The engine was very clean inside (except for carbon buildup which was cleaned) so I do not want to run the Auto RX (I will let the Mobil 1 do the cleaning over time if it needs any).

I will give the Truck & SUV some more time and will increase the drain intervals if I can get the consumption to go down. If the consumption remains a problem, I will proably change to chevron Delo 15W-40 to save $.

I have heard from others on a Landcruiser forum that the Rotella Synthetic was very good and helped some with consumption issues. I was wondering if it was a better choice than the Truck and SUV for this issue or if they would be about the same. I would rather use the Mobil 1 I have a choice.

Thanks

Andrew
 
The 4.5L Toyota Six has some comsuption issues when run hard. We have seen several people on the landcruiser group who have experienced high consumption when using M1 0w-40 (1 quart every 500-1000 miles) when the motor is run hard. However, the same people when running Shell Rotella Syntb 5w-40 don't have the consumption issue.

I know with my landcruiser and M1 0w-40, it burns no oil most of the time, but when driven from San Franciso to LA at 85mph-90mph and run full throttle over the grapevine, it will burn 1 quart during the 1000 mile trip. I continue to use the M1 because the wear numbers on the UOA have been great and there seem to be no adverse effects from the conumption under hard running.

I will second the issue that you can have initial consumption problems when switching oils. My wifes BMW 525i, burned about 1 quart of M1 15w-50 per 1500 miles, and when I switched to M1 0w-40 it burned 1 quart in 500 miles. Since then, it has not burned any (over a year and 5000 miles).

Cary
 
quote:
Originally posted by Cary:
The 4.5L Toyota Six has some comsuption issues when run hard. We have seen several people on the landcruiser group who have experienced high consumption when using M1 0w-40 (1 quart every 500-1000 miles) when the motor is run hard. However, the same people when running Shell Rotella Syntb 5w-40 don't have the consumption issue. .....

I will second the issue that you can have initial consumption problems when switching oils. My wifes BMW 525i, burned about 1 quart of M1 15w-50 per 1500 miles, and when I switched to M1 0w-40 it burned 1 quart in 500 miles. Since then, it has not burned any (over a year and 5000 miles).
Click to expand...
The first instance is, I am reasonably sure, 100% a function of viscosity. Mobil places the viscosity of its motor oils at the low end of a given rating. This is a result of two things: since the PAO base stock of its motor oils don't shear back, there's no need to have a cushion by making it at the high end of a viscosity rating.

And long experience with fleets and field experience demonstrate that most vehicles use a heavier viscosity than they really need.

The second issue involves "seating".

Something Mobil noted in its test and field experience was that when the Mobil 1 formula changed, vehicles that had been run on the previous formula experienced a temporary increase in oil consumption.

In 1 or 2 thousand miles things sort out and oil consumption returns to normal.
 
Cary, thanks. I tried to PM you on the other board but I guess I did not do it right. I want to stick it out with the Mobil 1 (I bought 2 cases of it). If the consumption issue still remains, I may try the Rotella T Synthetic but I really want to avoid a lot of switching. If that does not work, I will proably go back to Dino.

Thanks
 
Having just run 3,000 miles with M1 0w-40 and having just done 4,000 miles with Rotella T Syn before that through my '95 Saturn SL1, I'd like to report that the Rotella did better with oil consumption. I know the M1 isn't Truck & SUV formula, but I thought it was an interesting result. The M1 after 3k miles is down to the add line, approximately 1 quart of consumption, whereas Rotella T only used 1/2 quart, not to mention it looked like it held up better. Not very scientific I'm afraid, but the results are interesting.
 
Andrew,
I'd change the oil filter and top it off.

Not unusual for the synthetic to clean out stuff and partly clog the filter. Then you are circulating diry oil, and dirty oil doesn't seal as well as clean oil.
 
quote:
When I checked the oil at 1000 miles I was still full. At 1,600 miles, I was about 1.2 quarts low.
Click to expand...
That means you lost 1.2 quarts of synthetic oil in 600 miles. I would think something else is wrong as a leak..It don't sound correct?!?!...
 
Andrewsreef, You can not compare pre 1996 3.0V6 4Runner's with head gasket issues and or oil consuption issues to your LandCruiser. Theses vechile have nothing in common in the power train or chasis!!! The I6 engine in your Land Cruiser is one of the most sophisicated and well designed engines to ever be put in a production vechile! If it burning oil it is either due to abuse or the wrong viscosity of oil for ambient temps. and driveing style.

In temp.'s above 10-20 degrees F I would be running M1 15W50 in that engine. In all temps lower then that that you would see in FL. I would run a good 5W40 or a thicker 30wt like GC or Amsoil 10W30. If most of your driveing is short trips around town ignore the 15W50 once temps drop to 32F. If this engine has seen a lot of cheap dino 5W30 and or 10W30 and 5000-7500 mile OCI in FL. heat your ring packs need cleaning and so do your seals. M1 is not going to clean the ring back and no oil will. The most you expect from a really good synthetic oil is that it will not leave alot of deposits behind in the ring area the same is true of CI-4 rated dino oils.

Delo,Delvac 1300 15W40 are good oils and will give you good starting down to about 10F but I like to cut them off sooner then that just for a cushion.

How many miles are on this engine?
 
John,

Some observations that we have seen with the LC:

1) As you suggest, they seem to like an A3 30 weight-40 weight oil.

2) UOA's have been fabulous with M1 40 weight oils.

3) In Austrialia they recommend heavier than 30 weight, up to 20w-50 for temps above 38f.

4) Those that have run 15w-50 have reported very high oil pressure, with it barely dropping from the max mark. It appears that 50weight is overkill for these motors unless they are running a blower or turbo kit.

Cary
 
"The I6 engine in your Land Cruiser is one of the most sophisicated and well designed engines to ever be put in a production vechile!"

John, is this not the same engine that has been in the 80 series cruiser since the early 90s? They are very good engines but I do not think they were built to the tollerences of the newer motors (like the Toyota V8). I know several people who has had some oil consumption issues in these trucks (around my year up to 1997). I agree with you completely, I do not have any idea what the prior owner did for the first 67k. My luck it was 7,500 with the cheapest oil they could find. My wife's 1998 Toyota Sieanna does not use any 10W-30 Mobil 1 even at 5-6k which is where I change it. I totally agree it is not normal but seems to happen somewhat often.

On a good note, the truck really runs good and is smooth with good power so I really do not want to do anything more at this point but to find the best oil for the truck in its present condition.

Thanks again.

Andrew
 
No it is not the same motor used in early 1980's. That would be like compareing an early 20R to the 22RE or better yet the most recent 2.7I4. Toyota continualy refines it's designs. The I6 in your LC is every bit as good as the newer V8's.

I will agree with Cary with reguard to 15W50 being over kill. The problem is that M1 does not make a 40Wt. that I would recomend in you application at this point besides Delvac-1 wich is diffacult to find. I still have my doubts about 5W40 SUV? The I6's in all of the various LC absouletly do not do well with 5W30 and in most cases 10W30! This is especialy true if have etened high speed driveing or high loads low speed driveing mixed in with some heat,sand and humidity. I think that an HTHS of 3.8 or higher and good detergent package is going to be critical in this engine!

I know you are opposed to Auto-Rx. With an unknown track record of OCI and the replacement cost of oil dureing OCI at $4.99 a quart per 600-1000 miles Auto-Rx is a bargin. I suspect that if this engine is a low millage grocery getter and highway queen that the rings are probably dirty and your valve guide seals are proably dirty and dry. If it does nothing for you you are out nothing as it has a money back gurantee!

If all it does is clean your seals, ring pack and pickup screen it will be money well spent!The very syptoms you report have been solved probably 7 out of 10 times on this board with AUto-Rx.

Carey is the guy to talk to on specific LC questions. Not only is he a LC owner but he is also well versed in all things LC!

P.S. How many miles are on this 50,000; 150,000; 200,000 ????????
 
quote:
Originally posted by Mickey_M:
The first instance is, I am reasonably sure, 100% a function of viscosity. Mobil places the viscosity of its motor oils at the low end of a given rating. This is a result of two things: since the PAO base stock of its motor oils don't shear back, there's no need to have a cushion by making it at the high end of a viscosity rating.
Click to expand...
In this case it does not appear to be viscosity related. It appears to be sensativity to certain oils. Many of these same people do not have consumption issues with 10w-30. Also, Mobil 1 0w-40 @ 14.3 cst @100c is right in the middle of the 40 weight range while Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 is 15.0 cst at the same temp. No a whole lot of difference.
 
John, the truck now has 80k on it and I purchased it with 67K. I think it was a grocery getter as it is in near perfact shape inside and out, just had some maintance issues (or lack of I assume).

Thanks

Andrew
 
Check out my 8000 mile UOA with M1 0w-40, it looked great.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001765#000000

Another guy on the Landcruiser group who is a member here posted a UOA of the M1 5w-40 and it looked good, but not quite as good as the 0w-40. It appears that this motor is very easy on oils when they are the proper weight (8quart capacity helps), and like Johnbrowning, I agree if temps are above 40f and you change every 5000 miles or less, go with a good HDEO like Delo 400 15w-40.
 
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