My wife doesn't/won't drive her 03 Civic EX more than 5k miles a year.
Right now it has the break-in oil but after the first change, I quite frankly don't know which oil to put in. I've always used M1 but I don't know if there are any adverse effects (compared with any other quality syn) from just having it sit in an engine that isn't frequently used e.g., oxidation.
Once I change it out should I just go with M1 or is there something else that'll be more satisfiying? I've also looked at RL as a possibility too including MTL for the tranny. BTW, I will change the oil at 1 year regardless of the mileage.
[ August 29, 2003, 12:20 AM: Message edited by: Flashlightboy ]
Oil changed once a year - suggestions?
- Thread starter Flashlightboy
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Personally I'd change the oil every 6 months regardless of miles, but that's just me.
In any case, I'd use the best oil I could find. Maybe Redline, maybe Amsoil Series 2000. Hard to say what the best oil is, but I would spare no expense. Sounds like your wife's situation is hard on oil, with short trips and infrequent use.
I bet M1 would be fine.
Cheers, 3MP
Flashlightboy,
I have a 1984 Honda CRX that gets driven only occasionally. I change the oil out each spring with Mobil 1 10w30 and a new filter. This last year I only drove it a few hundred miles. I'm waiting to purchase new flex lines for the brakes as the old ones are all cracked and I believe, the source of my spongy brake pedal.
But, because of the few miles I put on her, the oil always comes out as clean as when I put it in...gonna do a UOA one of these days and check for coolant contamination as something seems awry with the temp when running under load...
Bogatyr
Mobil 1 or Amsoil will be perfect. If in doubt do an analysis.
Once a year with M1 or twice a year with dino - your choice. Myself I'd go with dino twice a year (spring & fall).
Hi,
I run a Porsche - they have recommended annual ( or 20000kms) oil changes for twenty odd years
On Mineral oil too! Do it - M1 is great stuff but use the Euro spec 0w-40
I will soon post the results of my car's last oil sample ( last of 4 ) taken at the twelve months point. I am currently running Shell Helix Ultra 15w-50 ( SJ/CF A3-96/B3-96 )synthetic in it
Regards
Hi,
Pscholte - the second of the four UOAs on the Shell Helix Ultra was posted in the UOA area on June 5
I will try and post the third UOA today - it was done at the nine months point - in July
Regards
What about Rotella T Synth? 5w-40 might get a lil heavy, but it will protect well. This is a great oil for $12.83 a gallon. It might be (one of) the best long-life oils widely available. (Wal*Mart)
Hi,
Harrydog - well I'm not "getting cheap" with oil. The money is actually of no import to me.
I offered to do the test ( see under UOA )to see if the Porsche recommended change intervals are for real. We now know that they are!!
Older Porsche dry sumped air cooled engines are another issue. Without oil coolers the oil temps can go up to 230-240F or so - and beyond - in these engines
Oil coolers can reduce this by about 20-30F
In Australia an oil change with a synthetic is about $A180 or so
IMHO there is also no point in trashing a perfectly good and scarce resource if there is no need to
Regards
quote:But Porsches (at least the ones I'm familiar with) have a dry sump system that holds 12 quarts of oil. Big difference from the 4 quarts in Civic engine. I'd even change the Porsche oil more than once a year. Not because it's absolutely necessary, but because it offers some additional protection and added piece of mind for relatively few bucks. A $50K to $120K+ sports car, and your going to get cheap over a $50 oil change? Not me.
Originally posted by Doug Hillary: Hi, I run a Porsche - they have recommended annual ( or 20000kms) oil changes for twenty odd years On Mineral oil too! Do it - M1 is great stuff but use the Euro spec 0w-40
quote:Yowiee!! That is a lot of loot for just one oil change!
originally posted by Doug Hillary: In Australia an oil change with a synthetic is about $A180 or so IMHO there is also no point in trashing a perfectly good and scarce resource if there is no need to
![[Eek!]](images/icons/shocked.gif){kind=icon}
Ok, agreed it's good not to be wasteful, but are we really doing our engines any favors by subjecting the same batch of oil to extremes in hot and cold temperatures for 4 entire seasons? Let's face it, this oil is going to get beat to a pulp by the time a full year is up, and quite possibly sheared down out of grade.
Plus, going that long, there is a good chance the oil could see contamination from a number of different sources: fuel, water condensation, coolant seepage, dirt particles--for some engines, maybe all four of these!
If the contamination occurs early on, then it really is "Good-Night-Irene"--you are stuck with carrying this crud in your engine for the whole year until the next change! ![[Freak]](/forums/graemlins/freak2.gif)
Unless the owner is doing an awful lot of topping up during the year or using a by-pass filter, I'd get the oil out of there every six months at the latest, especially for our limited-duty Civic here.
The Porsches do have a larger oil capacity, and they say you can go 15K, but Porsche is still in the business of selling cars. They want the cars to last long enough to keep the customer happy, but not so long that they never sell you another one, so I'd take that 15k with a grain of salt.
Then too, these are also very special cars--often with collector car potential ![[Cool]](images/icons/cool.gif){kind=icon}
--having owned a couple myself, I think that's another reason to change the oil out earlier regardless of manufacturer specs (and even if my wallet thinks otherwise.) ![[Wink]](images/icons/wink.gif){kind=icon}
[ August 31, 2003, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: Rexman ]I would say it is more of does the oil get hot enouge to evaporate the moisture in the oil? when the car is used .IMO .If it does the oil will hold up and if in doubt do an oil anaylsis at intervals of your choice that is the most foolproof method then let us know so we all can learn.
Hi,
Rexman - I note your comments.
If you look in the UOA section of this Board, the third Oil Condition Report on my Porsche tells its own story. Look at the trends there - this is what it is all about
If I had not embarked on UOAs in the 1960's and changed to synthetics when possible (in the 1960's) and where needed to I would be a lot worse off today
In my trucks and in ThermKing & Carrier reefer units alone the savings in oil & filter use and disposal issues have been truly amazing
Let alone the labour costs on OCs and valve train adjustments and the high temperature durability enhancements on road train diffs & gearboxes etc. - and oil seal life and etc
Regards
Doug may I ask how many semi's you have?...s
Hi,
Sprintman - I had up to 12 heavy trucks and have been gradually decreasing the fleet size as at 64 I prepare to retire -well hopefully!
I worked as follows;
Finemores - Fleet Manager Engineer etc ( 120 trucks )
Frigmobile - GM Transport & Fleet Engineer, Manager ( Swire Group-Cathey Pacific )( 150 trucks )
Heggies - Fleet Manager ( they also had a small brick fleet in Queanbeyan )( 120 odd trucks )
I commenced my own Risk Management, QA & Truck Industry Consultancy in 1988 and acquired the trucks progressively after then. Being in your own business for 15 years is a long time!
My trucks haul for Scott's Refrigerated Freightways ( and others ) who are now users of Delvac 1 after me trialing extended drain intervals with mine
Regards
Finemores at Wagga?
Hi,
Sprintman - yep in Wagga! Before and during receivership in late 1970's.
Frigmibile in Sw1re House ( was Spring St nr Australia Sq ) and, Heggies in Wollongong
Hey why Sprintman?
I was a cyclist - a velodrome 200m sprinter and 1km rider
Were you ??
Regards
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