Oil burning journey 2006 CR-V with 176k mi

Marcozi said:
Research Dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). Basically you add some to the oil and let the engine idel for 30-60 minutes. Then change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter. Run the engine again for 16 minutes. Change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter, again. Repeat until the oil comes out of the engine relatively clean. Drain the engine and refill wit the appropriate oil and a new filter.

DMSO, when heated, becomes a very strong cleaner. The process above the DMSO dissolves the varnish and other contaminants. It also frees up gunked up oil control rings.
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I appreciate the info and may consider it at some future point.

I will continue with my plan unaltered and report results.
 
goingplacesanddoingstuff said:
Yeah, but then again replacing a cat is cheaper/less work than digging into the engine.

I love these old CR-Vs. They need to bring back a more utilitarian no-nonsense little SUV like this.
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Could not agree more. The earlier CR-V's were great and provided reliable, comfortable service for many miles and years.

On your issue with oil burning, my thoughts are as follows (you may not like them):

1. That car should not be burning that amount of oil at that mileage.
2. A good number of folks say that the car is older and you should just learn to live with it, and add that quart every 900 miles, because "oil is cheap." I don't think of this as the "BITOG Way," and would only accept it, if I could know that the engine is worn and burns oil as a result. Either way, burning or consuming oil never improves without some kind of intervention. You indicate that you are looking at this as an "experiment," and in that vein would suggest that the question is "why."
3. In my experience, these honda 4 cylinder engines in the pre DI era, do best on factory recommended oils, which in this case is 5W20, full synthetic. Your father was using QS conventional for 110,000 miles. I don't think that helped matters, but admit that it is hard to see how it could have resulted in deposits -- and yet, you say that there is significant varnish inside the valve cover. If it's the case, the simplest solution, and your best case is to work on cleaning that engine. (If the piston rings are worn, or there are leaks, exhaust blockages, the only solution is to drive, add oil, until you give up, or go for major mechanical repair). I would note that you have moved to different oil "weights," which I don't believe makes sense to address this question. I think that the engine has gotten dirty, at least partially as a result of conventional oil usage, and if you can fix that, the oil consumption disappears.
4. I would want to get this engine clean. I would do Seafoam ahead of your next two oil changes. I would use Synthetic 0W20, or 5W20 henceforth, in GTX (or other syn Castrol), Maxlife, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, straight Mobil Syn or even QS flavors.
5. This presupposes that the engine is working well in otherwise.

Best wishes on this one. These cars want to run forever.
 
Marcozi said:
Research Dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). Basically you add some to the oil and let the engine idel for 30-60 minutes. Then change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter. Run the engine again for 16 minutes. Change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter, again. Repeat until the oil comes out of the engine relatively clean. Drain the engine and refill wit the appropriate oil and a new filter.

DMSO, when heated, becomes a very strong cleaner. The process above the DMSO dissolves the varnish and other contaminants. It also frees up gunked up oil control rings.
Click to expand...
20W50 oil???? What are you talking about?
 
Cujet said:
A great many Honda engines used low tension rings and even small levels of wear resulted in oil consumption. I wish you well in your quest to improve things, but I suspect the rings will need to be replaced if you want to eliminate the problem. The only way to prevent those rings from failing early was to use, well, that's a subject for another day.
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Low tension rings are a problem, but this vehicle predates them, so it's not part of this story.
 
TomYoung said:
Could not agree more. The earlier CR-V's were great and provided reliable, comfortable service for many miles and years.

3. In my experience, these honda 4 cylinder engines in the pre DI era, do best on factory recommended oils, which in this case is 5W20, full synthetic. Your father was using QS conventional for 110,000 miles. I don't think that helped matters, but admit that it is hard to see how it could have resulted in deposits -- and yet, you say that there is significant varnish inside the valve cover. If it's the case, the simplest solution, and your best case is to work on cleaning that engine. (If the piston rings are worn, or there are leaks, exhaust blockages, the only solution is to drive, add oil, until you give up, or go for major mechanical repair). I would note that you have moved to different oil "weights," which I don't believe makes sense to address this question. I think that the engine has gotten dirty, at least partially as a result of conventional oil usage, and if you can fix that, the oil consumption disappears.

Best wishes on this one. These cars want to run forever.
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Seriously doubt gasoline Hondas pre 2010 have x-20 oils recommended from factory outside NA/US.
Im getting recommended 5w40 from most sites with various Honda k24 cars.
 
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Just for the record, I’m not looking for advice. This thread is to log progress with the plan I have in place. My goal is primarily to see if HPL works, secondarily to “fix” the car. Thanks all!
 
goingplacesanddoingstuff said:
Just for the record, I’m not looking for advice. This thread is to log progress with the plan I have in place. My goal is primarily to see if HPL works, secondarily to “fix” the car. Thanks all!
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Cleaning can help, but I would still run 0/5W-40 (euro spec in my case) oil long term in anything that still consumes abnormal amount of oil.
Valvoline HM 150k seems to have high noack.
 
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Kalle.J said:
Cleaning can help, but I would still run 0/5W-40 (euro spec in my case) oil long term in anything that still consumes abnormal amount of oil.
Valvoline HM 150k seems to have high noack.
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As stated earlier, I already have the oil so will be sticking to the existing testing plan. I may make further changes after I execute the plan.
 
Kalle.J said:
Seriously doubt gasoline Hondas pre 2010 have x-20 oils recommended from factory outside NA/US.
Im getting recommended 5w40 from most sites with various Honda k24 cars.
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Most sites, or Honda? Either way, whatever practice is in those countries is not relevant.
 
TomYoung said:
Most sites, or Honda? Either way, whatever practice is in those countries is not relevant.
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Honda. Ofcourse not, we didn't have ULSG way before U.S :ROFLMAO: 🤡

Skärmklipp.PNG


Skärmklipp.PNG
 
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Kalle.J said:
Honda. Ofcourse not, we didn't have ULSG way before U.S :ROFLMAO: 🤡

View attachment 176512

View attachment 176513
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The cars are not identical market to market. This car sold nearly four times as many units in this year in the United States as compared to all of Europe. In my own driveway, and repeated thousands of times are K series cars that go well past 200K (miles) on 0 W20 oil. Some of the best tech out there is in these oils. I understand that there are plenty of folk who tout the unproven conspiracy theory that 20 weight oils are specified to meet CAFE standards, AND that the cars suffer as a result. You'll see folks talking about HTHS and film thickness. You'll never see an example of a car that has failed because of using OEM oil neither stateside, nor in the land of ABBA. The issue here is that this question of oil burning is being inappropriately forced into a thick or thin paradigm.
 
Kalle.J said:
How bout the Japanese book for Honda Accord 2005 (TSX?) with k24 that specifies to not use 0W20 API in any of the 2.4L.
Guessing that is not relevant either, since American Honda Motor co. definitely knows best and were not at all affected by CAFE :poop::geek:

Only reason I see this as not relevant is that the engine is already f**ked, potentially by following cafe recommendations.
But please enlighten me how oil recommendations outside of Am. Honda motor co. (from f**king California) are irrelevant.
I mean its not like the K24a1 was US specific.

Page 432
https://www.bruksanvisni.ng/honda/accord-2005/bruksanvisning?p=432
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I think it is inherently unreasonable to follow service recommendations for cars purchased in other countries, based on some ideas that you have. With regard to the original poster's situation, you have not read the thread carefully. For the past 100K miles, the car was using conventional oil, contrary to OEM recommendations in both the U.S. and Scandinavia.
 
Kalle.J said:
You forced it. The Honda CRV came with the same ****ing k24a1 worldwide.
Only Honda U.S specced 0W20 you have no ****ing clue what OEM oil is.
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Aside from your unnecessary use of bad language, the '12 Accord K24 I passed along to my older son five years ago has been on 0W-20 and IOLM drains for its entire life and is now at 150K.
Guess how much oil it uses?
How 'bout none.
Heard it started up today and it was as smooth and quiet as when I brought it home from Honda East in November 2012.
 
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