Originally Posted By: Shannow
+1 to use what you've got, but I'd use cheap ATF.
Has to let the air through the oil bath first up, lower viscosity, and pour point help that. Has to drain back through the mesh, density of oils varies less than with viscosity.
I've been trying to figure out if air actually passes through the oil or just flows over top of it and any dirt just sticks to it. So I guess the photo answers my question.
I've been trying to find an alternative to those overpriced paper elements used on lawnmowers today. Like an oil bath. I know that sounds like stepping backwards but think it might be a cheaper alternative to those expensive paper elements.
Used to lawnmowers had a foam filter you washed out then soaked in oil. They were effective but I guess most people didn't like getting their hands dirty so they started using paper filters which cost more than an air filter for a car. As if changing the oil in your lawnmower is not dirty enough.
I have allot of dead spots in my yard and can kick up quite a dust bowel especially when mulching leaves. This is what the filter looked like on an old Snapper lawnmower I used to own. I'm surprised the engine still ran.
This last summer we had a drought and would continuously blind over filters but never seemed to cause any problems with the engine. This was after 3 hours of mowing.
So I found this foam filter that replaces the original filter perfectly. It cost about the same as the replacement paper element. I had used a mixture of ATF and kerosene but someone on here suggested an oil made especially for foam filters so I ordered some. I've not used it yet but will come spring.
