oil and filter for 10k oil changes 2014 focus

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Originally Posted By: Kuato
As per BITOG, you'll get plenty of suggestions. Here's mine:

It may not carry the certifications, but certainly carries the reputation, and the track record and additives to back it up: Amsoil with an Amsoil filter.


If you're concerned about warranty, then perhaps tig1's history using M1 on a 10k interval would interest you.



Here is mine as far as Amsoil, Amsoil XL, carries API starburst, rated for up 10,000 miles or as indicated by OLM, with a WIX, NAPA Gold, or FRAM Tough Guard oil filter. I'm sure the resident Amsoil dealer Pablo will help you with your needs.

Amsoil XL is a stout Grp III oil with excellent HTHS #'s, better than M1. Will be my next fill in my Santa Fe.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
I have the 2012 version and have been using the old version of Ultra. When this stock is exhausted, I may move to Mobil1 EP 0w/20. It certainly meets the Ford spec, is a long drain interval oil and, in 0w/20 at least, is 60-70% PAO, which sould result in low Noack - a good thing for a DI engine.

With all due deference to Ford's engineers, I'll confess I'm not quite convinced that the 10,000 mile OCI they recommend on everything, including DI and DI/EcoBoost engines on conventional oils will prove to be justified. If I were going to follow the IOLM, I'd do it in stages with a few UOAs on the way.


A shorter oci may help with dilution (if anyone thinks this is an issue not taken into consideration by the mfrs), but will do nothing for valve deposit issue. As for synthetics, Toyota has been using what many consider to be the best 0w20 on the mkt (TGMO) and yet they now have switched to a dual injection system (PFi and D.i named DS-4), possibly and most likely do to d.i. valve deposit issues. Also, many euro cars in the US use very stout, multi spec, low Noack oils and if you visit their forums, there's still a lot of late model valve deposit issues discussed. I currently use the best TEOST scoring EDGE w/ti but I'm not sure this will make a difference. Do good TEOST and Noack performing oils slow down deposits? Maybe. But I'm not sure anything will limit it to the levels of a PFi engine. Although I must say, it does seem to be a hit or miss thing. My neighbor owns two Kia Optima 2.4, one with 112,000 miles that shows 0 signs of deposit or any other issues while using VWB from day one in 2010. He now uses PHM in both.
 
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What do you mean by "excellent HTHS#s"?
HTHS is a measure of viscosity.
It's neither good nor bad.
If you mean higher, that's not necessarily better, since fuel economy correlates closely with HTHS, moreso than with SAE grade.
 
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