Seems to be a lot of talk about this oil, thought I'd share my results:
5 track days, ~500 street miles.
5 track days, ~500 street miles.
Oil Analysis w/ Rotella synthetic
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Yeah it's stock. I think the gas is just because I was having trouble starting it (choke on, blipping throttle etc..) when I took the sample.
Is this a SV650? If so what year?
It's a '99 model. I posted it on SVrider too.
NOsquid, I've got a Blackstone on my '02 SV650 using the same oil (1500 mile interval) and mine shows no moly or magnesium, and very little boron. I was wondering if you are using some additive, or if there was some fresh assembly lube in your sample or something?
I show almost the exact same fuel numbers that you do, for what it's worth.
I show almost the exact same fuel numbers that you do, for what it's worth.
I found it interesting that the Iron in your sample was 12 because in my Suzuki DL650 it was also 12.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=52;t=000061
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=52;t=000061
Sorry I haven't been back to answer. I've never put any additive in it, it's been mine for the past 8k miles and several oil changes. I'm pretty sure I've used only Rotella, dino and synthetic since I've had it.
Interesting about the fuel dilution...I also have an SV650 a 2000. When riding behind it on one of my other bikes it smells very rich during decel. I had richened it up since that era SVs came lean and had part throttle surge in the mid range. Bike runs great and would never have known if I hadn't ridden behind it! After checking everything I put it back to stock and still have the smell. Never have run an oil analysis on it and probably won't since I may be selling it soon.
Not sure about your strom but some carbs have a de-accel enrichment device to prevent backfire.
Kawasaki did just the opposite, put reed valves on the exhaust ports to pull in filtered air to lean it out for better EPA emissions scores. Many owners take these off/disable them, especially if they put on aftermarket pipes (and how many people DON'T change the pipes...a vast minority), because, like you mentioned, lean exhausts pop on deceleration. Although stock pipes muffle the pop well, it is very noticeable with aftermarket pipes.
Interesting differences in approaching the problem....
Interesting differences in approaching the problem....
i have a 93 vs1400 intruder with cobra pipes, and some people have told me to take that exhast thing out of mine, but i dont think i want it to pop....whats the benifit of taking that off??
You are correct, you do not want it to pop. If your's doesn't pop now, leave it alone. If it does, try disabling it first to see if it improves. Then, if you like the way it performs, you can permanently remove it, if you don't like it, you can just re-enable it. I'm not familiar with your system to make specific recommendations. This big Kawasaki engine is the first I've worked on since tinkering with some BMW motorcycles and Harleys. Too much variability for me to make blanket recommendations.
It's also thought that the head pipes will run a little cooler with the air inj disabled. Guys will pull it for concern of the chrome bluing on their pipes. Not sure it's really that valid of concern, the bluing probably is more due to the engine running slightly leaner with the less restrictive aftermarket pipe. I pull the system just because it's one less thing in the way during valve adjustment, have no problem with it otherwise, it doesn't rob the engine of any power.
The deaccel enrichement device I mentioned previously was mostly used on big singles.
If your sv is bone stock and you don't want to mess with the carb jetting simply set you idle a little higher and it will help your cold starts. You may have to set it back down some when it's good and hot but enventually you can find and good middle compromise and just leave it.
The deaccel enrichement device I mentioned previously was mostly used on big singles.
If your sv is bone stock and you don't want to mess with the carb jetting simply set you idle a little higher and it will help your cold starts. You may have to set it back down some when it's good and hot but enventually you can find and good middle compromise and just leave it.
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