Oil Advice for a New Member

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Ello Everyone, I've done a fair amount of reading on the boards and my head is spinning at this point. I was hoping that someone could recommend an oil to me: Model: 2011 Dodge Charger SE Engine: 3.6 VVT Miles Driven: 60 miles per day (30 miles per trip) City/Highway Ratio: 10%/90% Recommended Oil: 5W-30 ISLAC GF-4 conventional Recommended OCI: 8000 miles (yeah right!) Current OCI: 3000 Desired OCI: 7500 Current Mileage: 21,300 Climate:Oklahoma (teens in the winter - 115+ in the summer) The car is warmed up for at least 2-3 minutes until the water temp gauge moves at which point I'll drive it slowly for the next 5-10 minutes until it's fully warm. The car sees occasional WOT runs on highway onramps but is driven rather sedately otherwise. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Hazmat11

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Sorry, I should have mentioned that I'm definitely interested in running a full synthetic.
 
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Buy whichever has a good sale/rebate and run it 7500 miles and sleep well at night. Save $ on oil to pay for costly gas! Seriously don't overthink oil as many do when they come here and many more that stay here.
 
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I would go with major brand synthetic, whatever has the best price or rebate when you're ready to buy. QS UD is often the cheapest at Walmart and often has $10 or even $20 rebates. I've used it many times. Just hit up all the brands websites, and the auto stores to see what offers you can get. Mobil 1 has $10 off at the moment. This way of choosing, you'll cycle through all the brands. It's kinda fun to see if you can spot the difference in your butt dino.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
stop idling it 2-3 minutes. your doing more harm than just starting it and driving off plus your wasting gas.
Correct. It dilutes the oil and actually shortens its life. I think any name-brand synthetic 5w30 would work well. Grab whichever one is on sale at the time of your next change.
 
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Prior to purchasing my Challenger I had a Dodge Magnum with the same engine as yours. I had excellent results with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and a Napa Gold filter. With your car still under warranty I suggest Sopus products (Mobil 1 no longer caries the Chrysler Spec, oil is the same but just a $$ thing with Chrysler)
 
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Since recommended oil is conventional 5W-30 with 8k OCI, then any synthetic 5W30 will do OCI 10k miles easy with you long daily trips. Warm up for 5-10 seconds then drive easy for 5-10 minutes. Normally I back out of the garage within 2-3 seconds after I start the engine and keep RPM below 2-2.5k the first 4-5 minutes, then increase RPM to about 2.5-3.0k the next 4-5 minutes, then drive normal.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
stop idling it 2-3 minutes. your doing more harm than just starting it and driving off plus your wasting gas.
Agreed. With the longer trips the OP is making, there's no need, and any oil, dino or synthetic, would be ok for 7,500 miles.
 
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I bet you intend to keep your new car for a longgggg time and that's why you are interested in running synthetic. Good move. For 3000 mi oci Valvoline conventional For 7500 mi oci your fav brand synthetic
 
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With M1 I have done 10K OCIs for decades. Now, with your warranty considerations you may want to follow that.
 
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Originally Posted By: cmorr
Prior to purchasing my Challenger I had a Dodge Magnum with the same engine as yours. I had excellent results with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and a Napa Gold filter. With your car still under warranty I suggest Sopus products (Mobil 1 no longer caries the Chrysler Spec, oil is the same but just a $$ thing with Chrysler)
Here is the warranty spec requirements for Chrysler according to Mobil tech. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil_1_and_Chrysler_MS-6395.aspx
 
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Not to be a SOPUS Fanboy, but i agree to stick with their stuff under warranty. if dodge calls for a 5w30 conventional to 8k mi, that's what i'd do. for a couple changes @ least. use the Oil Life Monitor feature, run it down to less than 10%. Do a UOA when you change it. Regular old Pennzoil(PYB), and Regular old QuakerState(QSAD) are Great oils for the Money. Both made By SOPUS(Shell Oil Products US)and I think Chrysler switched their FF/Recommendations over to Sopus Products after the FIAT buy out. In fact aren't the SRT models Coming w/ PP/PU? From the Factory? (Same as Fiat owned Ferrari)
 
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HAZMAT - how big is that sump in the v6? If thats a chain motor I wouldnt go over 6-7K with a group III ILSAC <span style="font-weight: bold">fauxsyn</span> especially with E10/15 in the winter.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
HAZMAT - how big is that sump in the v6? If thats a chain motor I wouldnt go over 6-7K with a group III ILSAC fauxsyn especially with E10/15 in the winter.
I know i'm not the one you asked, but from what i've found, it calls for 5.9qt Capacity w/ Filter.
 

Hazmat11

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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
HAZMAT - how big is that sump in the v6? If thats a chain motor I wouldnt go over 6-7K with a group III ILSAC fauxsyn especially with E10/15 in the winter.
ARCO, It's a six quart sump (the Hemis are 7 quart). If it makes a difference, I don't use E10/E15. I prefer to use non-ethanol Phillips 66 87 octane for better upper cylinder lubricity. I've noticed that at high RPM's I don't get the winter fuel wheeze that E10/E15 will often create.
 

Hazmat11

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Thanks to everyone for their replies and helpful advice. I'll probably end up going with PP at a 7500 mile OCI and a Mopar filter. It's what the stealership sells as their synthetic and since the car is still under warranty for quite some time I'll likely stick with it.
 
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just FYI, and someone PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong here, that Mopar Filter is basically a re-badged Purolator Classic. save your self a few $$ with the Purolator Classic, or upgrade to a PureOne, or the New Purolator Sythetic, depending on what the Mopar Filter Runs you..
 
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