Oil Addative or Oil Change

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 26, 2005
Messages
313
Location
Lugoff, SC
I tried searching, but your search returns off the wall results for threads that I know exist around here, so I apologize for asking a question that has probably been heard a million times.

My 1993 850 with 260K miles on it has leaky valve stem seals (common on whiteblocks). I'm losing about a quart every 1000 miles. It is currently due for a service and I was thinking about giving the Synthetic Oil Stabilizer from Lucas Oils a try; but that seems to be a HUGE no-no on this forum.

My other idea was to switch from Mobil1 0w40 to Mobil1 high mileage 10w40. I don't like that because it seems a bit thick when cold, but if it helps, I am definitely open to the option.

What do you suggest? Also, I would prefer to stick with Mobil1 as a brand, no other oils please.
 
The engine is very very clean and doesn't leak a drop of oil from any of the seals. I thought ARX only cleaned an engine?

I had to remove the oil pan due to the threads falling out (the car was taken to a jiffy quick lube place while I was in another state, Mobil1 was still used (taken into the store in bags) but the redneck mechanic torqued the plug so hard without an aluminum crush washer that it pulled the thread out of the pan, yes I was [censored]) and all of the seals were still very soft (unusual for this engine, of course, proper service on a Volvo is unusual).

I don't know why the valve stem seals would be any worse off, but since it is not leaking and they are common, that is the only thing I can attribute the oil loss to.

I also don't have time to have the head reconditioned at the moment, but that will be coming later.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
M1 high mileage or any other high mileage oil would be a good choice, at least for the summer months.


What should I do in the winter?

Before I knew the glory of the 0w40 and the benefits of 0w- oils, this engine was run on 10w30 M1 for the first 200K miles of its life, year round at that. I am thinking that is where the valve stem wear came from, lack of lubrication to twenty valve steam seals in the mornings.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
I wonder if ARX would be helpful in re-conditioning those seals?


ARX doesn't claim to re-condition seals.


Notes on Auto-Rx® and rotating seals

Auto-Rx® will clean rotating seals, removing the sludge and varnish that prevent rotating seals from working properly. Auto-Rx® cannot repair damaged rotating seals, such as those which have been torn or ripped. During the Clean Phase, rotating seal leaks may worsen. However, sealing ability should be restored during the Rinse Phase. In some cases, full recovery of rotating seals may not be achieved until several miles following completion of the last Rinse Phase.


ARX Seal Note


What kind of material are valve stem seals made from?
 
It's a bit pedantic but reconditioning infers some type of change to the seal material, usually softening. I think it's an important distinction. Notice they only mention cleaning and the after effects, carefully not mentioning the words reconditioning or hardened seals.

I do think ARX would be worth a try.

Valve stem seals are made from Viton, nothing used in oil or oil additives is going to touch it without destroying the seal's integrity.
 
Originally Posted By: KLowD9x
I tried searching, but your search returns off the wall results for threads that I know exist around here, so I apologize for asking a question that has probably been heard a million times.

My 1993 850 with 260K miles on it has leaky valve stem seals (common on whiteblocks). I'm losing about a quart every 1000 miles. It is currently due for a service and I was thinking about giving the Synthetic Oil Stabilizer from Lucas Oils a try; but that seems to be a HUGE no-no on this forum.

My other idea was to switch from Mobil1 0w40 to Mobil1 high mileage 10w40. I don't like that because it seems a bit thick when cold, but if it helps, I am definitely open to the option.

What do you suggest? Also, I would prefer to stick with Mobil1 as a brand, no other oils please.


You are going to need to replace your valve stem seals, it sounds like you are burning oil and your seals are almost disintegrated, do you have any puffs of smoke when you start the car or smell oil burning.
 
Valve stem seals are cheap. If the engine doesn't leak and runs well, why not just change them. Seems to make more sense than spending twice that on an additive.

Buy a valve spring compressor. It's cheap and you'll always have it. You don't even need air to hold the valves up; just get some nylon rope and fill the cylinder. Rotate the engine until the piston pushes the rope against the valve and change the seal.

My $.02.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Valve stem seals are cheap. If the engine doesn't leak and runs well, why not just change them. Seems to make more sense than spending twice that on an additive.

Buy a valve spring compressor. It's cheap and you'll always have it. You don't even need air to hold the valves up; just get some nylon rope and fill the cylinder. Rotate the engine until the piston pushes the rope against the valve and change the seal.

My $.02.



Exactly, umbrella seals aren't too much money, all you need is spring compressor, a compressor, and the proper size adapter to screw it into the spark plug hole. Or do it as mentioned above, I've never done it that way but have been told it works. Odds are those valve seals are rock hard, and some might have broken off and aren't even there anymore.
 
I don't know... With that much oil consumption I would say the seals need replacement and no amount of ARX, thick oil and/or off the shelf additives will fix it.

The thicker oil will slow it down, but I think the seals need replacement.

12.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top