I have a dodge caravan, 1999 with 56000 miles on it. Bought it used. The car drinks oil- I go through a quart about every 300-500 miles and thats being generous. No leaks anywhere! No smoke anywhere! However this past week when my wife turned the car over, it made a horrible noise like something was stuck and freed up. For two weeks it didnt suck any oil at all. Turned the car over again a few days ago, smelt oil burning and then shut it off. Turned it back on, no oil smell and its back to drinking oil. I have no idea what could be causing this. Any ideas? and any ideas on how to fix it? What to look for? Again, I dont smell any oil burning anywhere.
Oh where could my oil be going?
- Thread starter noahsfortune
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You should start by changing the PCV valve. This is the cheapest and easiest to replace part so the most obvious place to start. If that doesnt help watch for smoke during start up after the van has been sitting overnight. BTW, what weight oil is in the crankcase right now?
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Beyond that (oils/weights) ..which engine ..how long do you run OCIs ..typical driving habits??
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without knowing what engine and conditions.. did it just start using? oil brand/wt? if yout not competent at diagnosing find a good independant or trusted mechanic and have them diagnose the issue. you may have ring issues,valve guides/seals or hopefully something simple. it may cost you a few hours of labor (~$70/hr) but it may tell you what your up against or have to work with. allpar.com also has some pretty good chrysler info on various models, engines and common repair issues.
If the engine is not leaking oil at some point;
Change PCV valve and do AutoRX treatment.
Anything after that going to need a tech.
Change PCV valve and do AutoRX treatment.
Anything after that going to need a tech.
Yes, and use the OEM PCV valve -- not an aftermarket one.
Do you have the mechanical skills to take your valve cover off? Do you have a digital camera?
If so, lets take a look at your head. I don't even want to say the words, but you could have a problem.
If you can't take your valve cover off and you don't have a digital camera, then take off the oil fill cap off, stick your finger in and rub all around the top of the valve cover as far as you can reach and see if your finger comes out with only liquid oil on it.
If so, lets take a look at your head. I don't even want to say the words, but you could have a problem.
If you can't take your valve cover off and you don't have a digital camera, then take off the oil fill cap off, stick your finger in and rub all around the top of the valve cover as far as you can reach and see if your finger comes out with only liquid oil on it.
Man, I don't trust anyone who makes hard diagnostics over the internet without even seeing the car. Are you trying to scare the owner to death?
It does sound like a serious problem, but lets not take ol yeller out back just yet.
I think what he is asking is what in the engine could get 'unstuck' and stop his consumption, then suddenly 2 weeks later get 'stuck' again and start consuming again....
Well, it could be a sludge problem. I never heard back about removing the valve cover or even feeling around for sludge.
If it were my car, I'd take off the valve cover and look for signs on sludge. If the oil isn't burning out the tail pipe, and it's not leaking on the ground, then it could be collecting in the engine.
If you want to try a bottle fix, get a bottle of seafoam, a bunch of cheap oil, and a three oil filters. Well, maybe 4 oil filters for your final fill.
I'd change the oil and add a 1/3 of the bottle of seafoam and go out for a gental drive for about half an hour. Then go home and drain and fill and repeat the treatment two more times.
Can you do a compression test? I would monitor compression after each treatment and see if you are getting improvements or not.
It's really hard to figure out what is going on with your car over the internet, but it sounds like a sludge problem to me.
If it were my car, I'd take off the valve cover and look for signs on sludge. If the oil isn't burning out the tail pipe, and it's not leaking on the ground, then it could be collecting in the engine.
If you want to try a bottle fix, get a bottle of seafoam, a bunch of cheap oil, and a three oil filters. Well, maybe 4 oil filters for your final fill.
I'd change the oil and add a 1/3 of the bottle of seafoam and go out for a gental drive for about half an hour. Then go home and drain and fill and repeat the treatment two more times.
Can you do a compression test? I would monitor compression after each treatment and see if you are getting improvements or not.
It's really hard to figure out what is going on with your car over the internet, but it sounds like a sludge problem to me.
I didnt take the valve cover off however I did feel around and didnt find much. No sludge. I will take off the cover this weekend. Can you tell me what the seafoam is and where I can get it? How about the auto rx, can I get that at autozone?
Forget the Seafoam. It is a solvent and could suddenly dislodge some gunk and stop up the oil pump.
Change the PCV first with a Mopar brand valve. If that doesn't help, then try AutoRx. You have to mail order it. They are a site sponsor.
Change the PCV first with a Mopar brand valve. If that doesn't help, then try AutoRx. You have to mail order it. They are a site sponsor.
Could very well be a valve seal problem. On my old chevy 383 (stroked 350).. the stupid machine shop did not install valve seals on the exhaust valves.. said they don't on race engines. I never said it was a "race" engine.
Anyway, long story short, I installed new valve seals on the exhaust side and my consumption went from 1 qt per 300 miles to around 1 qt. per 1500.
Anyway, long story short, I installed new valve seals on the exhaust side and my consumption went from 1 qt per 300 miles to around 1 qt. per 1500.
Didn't you notice a dirty stinky exhaust with this problem tho?
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