I just got a new to me 2001 Hyundai Elentra GLS with 61000 miles.
Test drove it checked it out all looked good but when I got it home and took off the oil cap SLUDGE!
The dipstick is varnished but not bad. The sludge is about a quarter inch thick under the cap but there is a splash guard there and am hopping that the oil just does not flow there and gets hot. Do that ARX thing when I have money again. Also will get a valve cover gasket and check.
Anybody have the Hyundai 2.0L engine that does this too?
Ken
Oh Noooooooooooooooooooo!
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>Test drove it checked it out all looked good but when I got it home and took off the oil cap SLUDGE!
Are you saying the sludge formed on the way home? I would withhold payment from the appraiser.
Good one! I think he means when he "checked it out" he forgot to look under the oil cap, something *I* always do when considering a used car...
I have passed up several that looked good outside but under the oil cap inspection revealed possible poor maintenance.
Better luck next time Ken42 hope it turns out ok.
I have a 1999 Hyundai Tiburon FX 2.0L. Same engine as your car. I have over 100,000 miles and I have no sludge on my cap. I have a little varnish on my dipstick.. but i have nothign to worry about. Do two doses of Auto-RX. Do a full engine maintenance too.. don't forget the timing belt. wait wait wait... first of all.. change the Transmision Fluid and filter! Hyundai is known for bad Automatic transmission, but most Hyundai Owners don't do maintenance on there Tranies.
ANyways, enjoy, Your Hyundai. I love my car to death.
Is it really sludge? If it's a creamy, mayonaise-like light colored goo, it's not sludge - just a harmless froth of water condensate and oil vapor condensate. Sludge is BLACK.
It is sludge sorry. It does have a 3 year 36,000 mile extended warranty that they say ? covers the engine for all failures.
Ken
ken but if its sludge they wont cover it under that 3 year 36000 warrant. as its was not well maintained. yo uneed to take the car back and point out this sludge and maybe they will take the car back from you or fix the prob right then and there. but take care of it now. so there is no way they can say you done this.
Actually You just missed your warranty. Carry on Warranty is 5 years/60,000 miles.
I have a bunch of Red Line 10W/30 ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
Auto-Rx is your friend...
Ken, Sorry to hear about this. These 2.0's are not known sludge monsters, sounds like poor maintenance on the previous owners part. They are pretty good motors though and can take some abuse.
this sounds like a good test for Auto-Rx. I would do that when you get a chance and see how it does (Frank gives you a money back guarantee).
Also, I also second the tranny fluid change. If it is an auto, make sure that only SP-III fluid is used (only available from A Hyundai, Kia, or Mitsubishi dealer). There is no aftermarket equivalent and these trannies are real picky about the fluid.
If you want more info, go to www.elantraclub.com and join there. Lots of info in the Elantra there.
Yeah, don't forget the timing belt. If the belt goes, the engine is toast. Maybe they changed it for you before you got it? Man, if they have sludge like that described, when could they have been changing oil? YIKES!
Mine's been running since a 1997 rebuild, 162K, and there's barely any varnish let alone sludge. But then, I change my Mobil 1 every 3000 and change. I know, I know, too little mileage. I just can't take nasty, thick black oil milling about the engine.
Ick!
quote:Depends if the engine is an interference engine or not. If it's an interference engine, then bad things happen when pistons hit values - read $$$$. If it isn't you are correct. It doesn't have to be a high performance engine to be an interference engine either as I recall the late 80's Nissan Sentra was interference.
If the timing belt breaks the engine simply stops running.
Hyundai engines are interferance engines. Get the belt changed, and use a OEM belt, aftermarket ones just don't seem to work (they make a humming noise and break earlier).
If a chain breaks, BAD things can happen, too.
If it was my car, to de-sludge it I'd use:
1st: about 6 oz of Schaeffer Neutra on the crankcase for the last 500-600 miles before drain, then:
Lube Control in the new fill at about 2 oz/qt of oil, plus add about 2 oz every 1000 miles or so, for a full oil change interval. Drain that, & Then:
Auto-RX: follow the directions.
Sludge go bye-bye!
Wiped out most of the sludge around the oil filler hole that I could reach. This is not in the head just some kind of oil baffle or splash guard. Noticed today that oil is moving up into this area again.
Also did notice today that the transmission has alot of orange / pink sealent around the pan gasket and the bell housing. Wonder if work was done? CarFax says it was serviced at 40k but not for what. This is the 4 speed auto and I think it has lock up cause after about 2 or 3 miles it drops its rpms at 70 from 3000 to 2500 or so.
Ken
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