Oh [censored].........this is not good......

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So.....my daily driver is a 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee with the invincible 4.0L engine that i picked up a few months back when I had the engine out of my truck.

I decided to run some basic repairs (valve cover gasket and thermostat) and I got one [censored] of a shock when I took the cover off. It was gunked halfway to [censored] and by far was the worst example of gunk I have ever seen.

Thread on my usual forum has the details of what went on and how I fixed it.

http://www.ram forumz.com/showthread.php?t=215653 remove the space to go read what happened.


Anyhow this being an oil forum here are pictures of the filter I pulled off the engine before the flush and the filter used for the 1st flush, 2nd flush was similar. 3rd was as it should be and 4th is currently running in the engine.

http://imgur.com/a/twtsN

Now it is currently using a purolator classic and some no name carquest oil in 10-30, bearing in mind that the engine has 251000 miles and no leaks (I fixed em lol!) what oil should I be running as I am not going to rebuild this until a bearing fails. 10-40? Something even heavier?

Thanks again guys!
 
Yikes! I'd probably look at doing monthly oil changes on that thing to help clean it up. Dropping the oil pan at every 2 or 3 oil changes to be sure the oil pickup doesn't get clogged would probably be the right thing to do too.

Oil wise? I'd use the cheapest name brand oil spec'd to the engine and the cheapest Napa/Wix oil filter. Maybe consider an oversized if possible.

BTW, you should do a Google Images search for "engine sludge". It'll make yours not look so bad.
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HDEO= heavy duty engine oil. Usually engine oils with the diesel add pack, heavy on zinc, elevated tbn. Oils like Rotella, Delo 400, Castrol elixion.

usually 5w 40 or 15w40, a few 10w 30 oils
 
Oh, well I normally run oversize as is so I guess I have that covered already! Pan is coming off next week to replace the pump as I am now concerned for the engine's safety.
 
Originally Posted By: Striker2237
Oh, well I normally run oversize as is so I guess I have that covered already! Pan is coming off next week to replace the pump as I am now concerned for the engine's safety.


Great start. The muck in the pan will also show how bad things are.

Have you done the Google Image search yet? Some of the pics are horrifying, especially the oil pan pics!!!!

Assuming the pan/bottom end isn't too bad, very frequent oil changes will help the dilute muddy-looking sludge by mixing with it and slowly removing it with every drain. It's costly in oil and filters, but so is a complete rebuild.
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Was there any service history with that vehicle?


Nope, bought her without a test drive from my boss who got it from a customer with known issues of blown shocks, broke fuel gauge, worn bushings, leaking radiator and thermostat neck, engine oil leaks everywhere, weak battery and a failing transmission plus other really minor things. Interior was absolutely perfect though, that was the key selling point for me as I was goign to use it as a daily.

I would assume to make it to 250k that they at least had to do something right.......guess oil was not one of them....

Fixed everything now, was totally worth the price I paid (1000$) considering I knew how to fix everything.
 
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I would run the Fram Ultra XG8A even if you're doing short intervals, it has the highest contamination capacity of any passenger car oil filter on the market, so it will hold more sludge before bypassing, the capacity is 32 grams
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would run the Fram Ultra XG8A even if you're doing short intervals, it has the highest contamination capacity of any filter on the market, so it will hold more sludge before bypassing


Thank you, it will fir my spindle without needing an adapter correct?
 
The 4.0L I6 isn't invincible in those newer years. They have piston skirt issues and I believe head issues. Miller88 should be able to let you know which years you don't want. You don't want a 99&newer I believe.
 
I had a 4.0 but got rid of it when it started to have multiple oil leaks. I didn't know how to fix everything. (still don't don't know how to fix a main seal.)
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
I had a 4.0 but got rid of it when it started to have multiple oil leaks. I didn't know how to fix everything. (still don't don't know how to fix a main seal.)

Hammer, a hammer and very careful tapping.......lol!

In all seriousness you only need to drop the oil pan and remove the rearmost cap, replace the rope and then re TQ all the mains and put the pan back.


In regards to my jeep it seems you guys are heavily suggesting a 40 weight of some sort and a high capacity filter correct?
 
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Originally Posted By: Striker2237
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would run the Fram Ultra XG8A even if you're doing short intervals, it has the highest contamination capacity of any filter on the market, so it will hold more sludge before bypassing


Thank you, it will fir my spindle without needing an adapter correct?


Yes as long as you have room to accommodate the filter its the same, just longer and wider.

The PH8A is 5.14 inches by 3.8 inchs the stock ph16 size is 3.69 by 3.66

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH8A

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH16


The sizeing applies to the XG part number just the same as the PH, just using the PH for reference since its the most common filter reference number.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Striker2237
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would run the Fram Ultra XG8A even if you're doing short intervals, it has the highest contamination capacity of any filter on the market, so it will hold more sludge before bypassing


Thank you, it will fir my spindle without needing an adapter correct?


Yes as long as you have room to accommodate the filter its the same, just longer and wider.

The PH8A is 5.14 inches by 3.8 inchs the stock ph16 size is 3.69 by 3.66

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH8A

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH16


The sizeing applies to the XG part number just the same as the PH, just using the PH for reference since its the most common filter reference number.


Awesome, I heave over a foot of room as the filter mounts on the side of the engine pointing 90 degrees out lol! I most certainly can fit that!
 
Yup ford small block filters fit that just fine, use them. 1515 from napa. Run cheap filters and oil till you are satisfied the engine is clean. Cheapest you can get in spec. I personally would drop a 1/2 cup or so of Berryman b12 in it each time I swapped oil and filter which would probably be every couple weeks if it is daily driven. Especially if you have cleaned top and bottom. I would run whatever is the cheapest 10w40 I could find and do that for a couple months. After you are done cleaning use a decent diesel or otherwise /40 and enjoy the truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
The 4.0L I6 isn't invincible in those newer years. They have piston skirt issues and I believe head issues. Miller88 should be able to let you know which years you don't want. You don't want a 99&newer I believe.


A 2000 Might have the porous 0331 head, and if so then the coolant level will be reduced over time and cause sludge so that's a concern. 2000 was also the year they fixed the issue so it depends on build date.

Agree with several oil changes in rapid succession, 1 month/1000 miles and make sure it gets good and hot. Glad to hear you'll be pulling the oil pan...I'm sure while you are there you will clean the oil pick up.
 
I personally wouldn't want a cheap filter in this situation because less expensive filters have lower contamination capacity and a dirty engine will put it into bypass faster. I understand the reasoning behind it but it's not what I would do.
 
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