of What's your opinion on Castrol Synthetic Blend?

Messages
97
Location
Pa. America
I am thinking of putting this oil in my Toyota Tundra , it will be its first oil change, i expext to do about 7000 miles per year , no towing or hard work , just some vacations , road trip hunting , fishing etc. 5.7 liter motor , 4x4 , Auto trans. I am also considering the Valvoline 10-30 synthetic. Whats your opinion? Thanks Tundraz
 
Messages
2,689
Location
South Carolina
I would skip the blend as this is barely a synthetic blend as most are. Just enough group III base stock to call it a syn blend. Mostly a marketing ploy, IMO. A good conventional oil or find some full synthetic on sale would be the way I would go. Heck, you probably will not go past 5000 miles with the oil since it is under warranty anyways. OTOH, the I like and use the high mileage "synthetic blends" in older cars, and they make a world of difference in slowing consumption and leaks.
 

Bill in Utah

Staff member
Messages
12,849
Location
UT
Good oil. Is this a NEW truck? If so, pay attention to the warranty book as if you are in US, it requires you to change the oil every 6 months or 5,000 miles whichever comes first. Once you pass the 5 year - 60,000 miles then do what you please. But Toyota is strict (as most MFG are) about keeping records and sticking with the OEM OCI. And they could care less what type of oil you use for the OCI as long as it meets what they are asking for in the manual. I drive a Tundra at work and we get them serviced with iffy lube around 7k and they are doing fine. Also if you have the 4.7l make sure of the timing belt @ 90k. It is REAL important. Take care, Bill PS:
 

Tundraz

Thread starter
Messages
97
Location
Pa. America
Thank for taking the time to reply, Yes it is a New Truck only 4,063 miles so far. I put in the Castrol and right away i noticed that the engine sound a lot sweeter . Yah i will change the oil at 4-5000 so i wont violate the waranty requirements. I know that Toyota is fastidious about timely oil chsnges. Mine is a 5.7 so i think its a timing chain not a belt. Tundraz
 
Messages
674
Location
Nebraska
Its a good oil. IMO I am a believer in if you are going to do a syn blend then just go all the way and run synthetic. I would run a blend how ever, if I got a great sale and picked it up for less than dino.
 

Tundraz

Thread starter
Messages
97
Location
Pa. America
heavy hitter, the syn blend were 12 dollars at Wallyworld same as dyno, for the 5 quart jug, the lest expensive full syn were the Valvoline at $18.00. I Run Castrol 10w30 dyno in my Wife's Rav4 since day one, great oil really has good viscosity over the life of the oil. I am Running M1 in my Mazda3s since day one , it too is a great oil but i noticed it gets very black very soon and very thin as opposed to the Castrol dyno in my wife's RAV 4. Thanks Tundraz
 
Messages
649
Location
Maryland
I have about 3 5 quart jugs of this sitting at home waiting for my truck. I bought it from Wally's months ago when it was on sale... just because. I am going to use it when my GTX is all gone in about 7 months. I have a large stash.
 
Messages
313
Location
Lugoff, SC
We pump semi-syn castrol at work in all of the Volvos. If you change it around 5000 miles, it's good stuff. Of course, we kill oil since almost every one of our engines are turbocharged. My only beef, it's 30% synthetic for 50% synthetic price.
 
Messages
528
Location
Jupiter, florida
Just speaking out loud here.. Why use Castrol when there are so many, IMHO, better oils at the same or cheaper price.. Mobil 1, Pennzsoil, and Valvoline come to mind..
 
Messages
313
Location
Lugoff, SC
 Originally Posted By: peterdes
Just speaking out loud here.. Why use Castrol when there are so many, IMHO, better oils at the same or cheaper price.. Mobil 1, Pennzsoil, and Valvoline come to mind..
Because I am not the one that buys the oil at this dealership.
 
Messages
313
Location
Lugoff, SC
 Originally Posted By: Tundraz
I thought that castrol were up there with Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoloine etc? I thought that Castrol were good stuff! Tundraz
I never said it was bad, I just don't like the ratio semi-synthetics are blended at. IMHO, Mobil1 would be at the top of those manufacturers listed. I'm sure others will disagree with me, but from personal experience, it's a [censored] good oil.
 
Messages
13,196
Location
Maricopa Arizona
 Originally Posted By: peterdes
Just speaking out loud here.. Why use Castrol when there are so many, IMHO, better oils at the same or cheaper price.. Mobil 1, Pennzsoil, and Valvoline come to mind..
What do you mean "better"?
 
Messages
3,561
Location
Central Iowa
"Better" is a relative concept. Doesn't mean doodley squat without UOA's to substantiate. It would seem that some engines prefer certain oils much in the same way that guns like certain brands of ammo. I was running Amsoil AME 15w40 (a group IV full synthetic) in my Cummins. The wear numbers were not what I felt they should be. I switched to Schaeffer 7000 15w40 (a group III blend) and the UOA numbers were much better. I have also been able to increase the OCI with Schaeffer over that of the Amsoil AME. Been running a bypass filter all the time on both oils. Now, looking at all the publication data, it would seem the reverse situation would be what to expect. The publication data would suggest that the Amsoil is superior. May be in the right engine. But not it mine. The best way to find the "right" oil is to check a few brands/varieties and do UOA's on them and find which one gives the best results and then stick with it, going with the best bang for the buck as well.
 
Messages
43,737
Location
Ontario, Canada
 Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
"Better" is a relative concept. Doesn't mean doodley squat without UOA's to substantiate. It would seem that some engines prefer certain oils much in the same way that guns like certain brands of ammo. I was running Amsoil AME 15w40 (a group IV full synthetic) in my Cummins. The wear numbers were not what I felt they should be. I switched to Schaeffer 7000 15w40 (a group III blend) and the UOA numbers were much better. I have also been able to increase the OCI with Schaeffer over that of the Amsoil AME. Been running a bypass filter all the time on both oils. The publication data would suggest that the Amsoil is superior. May be in the right engine. But not it mine. The best way to find the "right" oil is to check a few brands/varieties and do UOA's on them and find which one gives the best results and then stick with it, going with the best bang for the buck as well.
UOA's don't really substantiate anything........
 
Messages
3,561
Location
Central Iowa
Ok..... whatever. Sure better judge of what is going on inside the engine with an oil than scuttlebutt and biased opinions. I go thru more oil in a year than most here and my business depends on a good cost/performance ratio. I have to know if an oil is holding up and doing its job. I will rely on UOA's far more than personal opinion. When you start dropping over 140,000 miles a year on engines or running ag equipment in a farming operation and your hide is on the line, then your comments might be informative.
 
Messages
43,737
Location
Ontario, Canada
 Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Ok..... whatever. Sure better judge of what is going on inside the engine with an oil than scuttlebutt and biased opinions. I go thru more oil in a year than most here and my business depends on a good cost/performance ratio. I have to know if an oil is holding up and doing its job. I will rely on UOA's far more than personal opinion. When you start dropping over 140,000 miles a year on engines or running ag equipment in a farming operation and your hide is on the line, then your comments might be informative.
I'm not talking about me. But thanks for going off on the offensive. I was talking about Doug Hillary's article on the subject...... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?...month&Itemid=78 He is an expert on the subject. That is not an opinion, that is a FACT.
 
Messages
3,730
Location
SE PA
I just read that. Comforting to know that my own recommendations of using mfg rec'd oil is validated. "So the advice I give to all BITOG readers is to use a lubricant of the correct viscosity that is specified by the Manufacturer and Listed by them as Approved – especially when under any form of Warranty" Don't see any reason to change once I'm out of warranty.
 
Last edited:
Messages
3,561
Location
Central Iowa
I am always suspect on the recommended brand idea. Always wonder if there isn't some sort of 'scratch my back and I'll scratch yours' going on. I prefer specifications like Cummins CES 20081, MB 229.5, VW 505.01, etc. That way, as long as the oil meets the engine manufacturers spec code, it really doesn't matter what brand. That way, an owner can choose which brand at the best cost/performance ratio. Even the Government recognizes this regarding legislation covering the OEM's and endusers. I realize that when an owner is only using a case a year, that cost is not the primary focus, and that some have a paranoia gland that works overtime (maybe due to past illicit drug use) that causes them to not veer one bit from every last detail of OEM name brand recommendations. But, we all have had some experience with getting a product that actually was of better quality than what OEM part or recommendation was. I have been involved with a lot of OEM suppliers over the years and it usually comes down to who can provide the "minimum" standard at the lowest cost to the OEM. Not who makes the superior product. For instance, a OEM may factory fill with Mobil 1 and recommend it, but since Mobil pricing is downright criminal to the end user compared to other brands of equal quality, they can underbid the cost to the factory to get their product in the engine and get their name in the owner's manual. Whereas, with a spec code standard, anyone who produces lube products can make and provide the end user with a oil that meets the spec and therefore give the user a choice in brand and promote competition to reduce cost to the user. I will alway follow the recommended spec code, but not necessarily the brand recommendation. That is where I then rely on UOA's to determine the best performance and value. I run a trucking business in an economic environment that is somewhat challenging. OEM recommendations are only starting points. I have to factor in cost/performance ratios. The OEM's aren't interested in whether my business survives, only if theirs does. To that end, they will make recommendations that they benefit from, not necessarily the end user. Doug Hillary does make some valid comments in his article, but the scope of his arguments are limited at best.
 
Top