OEM or Aftermarket Clutch (2015 Tacoma)

Joined
Apr 11, 2013
Messages
1,094
Location
Colorado
I have a 2015 Tacoma, and the throwout bearing is making a chirping sound. It has been doing it for a while, and I thought it was an idler pulley or the fan belt.

But my mechanic has correctly diagnosed it as the throwout bearing.

He wants to put a Luk clutch assembly in. About 300 bucks. But I’m tempted to go with OEM, even though it’s at least twice as much.

Any strong feelings about this decision? It’s a very nice truck with 92,000 miles on it. 6 speed manual. I was quoted about $2000 for the entire job. So I guess it be about $2300 with OEM.

I’m not in any hurry to do it, but I know I will have to at some point.
 
Absolutely nothing wrong with LUK, which is OEM for many vehicles.

But it's not the quality of an Aisin clutch.

I just made this decision on a 1989 22re pickup. Aisin was way better and the pedal feel is superb. I installed myself so the price difference was like $40. If I were you I would pay the extra $300 or see if your mechanic will offer a labor warranty for a customer supplied part. The answer is usually no, but who knows.
 
Luk had a rash of problems with Mopar 4.0 I6 clutches, and I've been distrustful ever since.

Personally I'd go OEM if you consider the truck part of your "A team." If it's a weekend parts runner and you plan to sell in a few years, then save $ with aftermarket
 
At 90k miles the stock clutch is probably still in great condition. It might even last longer than an aftermarket replacement. It's an awkward age for a clutch replacement.

It's a small data set, I've had good luck with the two of Luk clutches I've installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
Luk was very high quality years ago and the go to for clutch kits. I know of a transmission shop that isn't happy with them.

My recommendation is upgraded aftermarket or OE equivalent mentioned post #2.

Centerforce also has a dual-friction, and various other options, that you could consider. I myself am no fan of stock OE clutches... too slippery/soft/insulated for the ho-hum masses of consumers.
 
I have a 2015 Tacoma, and the throwout bearing is making a chirping sound. It has been doing it for a while, and I thought it was an idler pulley or the fan belt.

But my mechanic has correctly diagnosed it as the throwout bearing.

He wants to put a Luk clutch assembly in. About 300 bucks. But I’m tempted to go with OEM, even though it’s at least twice as much.

Any strong feelings about this decision? It’s a very nice truck with 92,000 miles on it. 6 speed manual. I was quoted about $2000 for the entire job. So I guess it be about $2300 with OEM.

I’m not in any hurry to do it, but I know I will have to at some point.
I've had great luck with luk clutches. Luk is oem on many applications.
 
At 90k miles the stock clutch is probably still in great condition. It might even last longer than an aftermarket replacement. It's an awkward age for a clutch replacement.

It's a small data set, I've had good luck with the two of Luk clutches I've installed.
I was thinking that, too. I'd almost be inclined to replace the throwout bearing and leave everything else. But yeah, "Once you're in that far...."
 
LUK is a fine choice, I install a lot of these with no issues. I do not subscribe to the "OEM ONLY" mindset on most parts, especially mechanical parts. Electrical parts are often better OE though.
 
I had a pair of 02 camrys.

First came with a stiff clutch of unknown origin, replaced it with a LUK, still stiff.

Second came with a stiff clutch, replaced it with a SACHS, felt like it should have. For a 4 cylinder I shouldn't need a thigh workout!

Myself, personally, I'd go with a name brand, but it could be different for someone paying for labor.
 
Luk was very high quality years ago and the go to for clutch kits. I know of a transmission shop that isn't happy with them.

My recommendation is upgraded aftermarket or OE equivalent mentioned post #2.

Centerforce also has a dual-friction, and various other options, that you could consider. I myself am no fan of stock OE clutches... too slippery/soft/insulated for the ho-hum masses of consumers.
Just to clarify, did you mean to say that you DON'T know of a transmission shop that isn't happy with them? Thanks very much.
 
At 90k miles the stock clutch is probably still in great condition. It might even last longer than an aftermarket replacement. It's an awkward age for a clutch replacement.

It's a small data set, I've had good luck with the two of Luk clutches I've installed.
I still have the original brakes (front and rear) at 92k miles. I recently had them checked and they said they're still fine. I am very easy on vehicles. So I imagine the clutch itself is fine, too. :)
 
Quality is hit/miss with various brand these days.

When my VW is due, it will get a Sachs kit. The virus has hampered their R&D and I do hope that Sachs releases their HD clutch before my OE clutch quits. OE doesn't do even mild power upgrades without excessive slippage.

I would drive that Tacoma until it needed a tow. Until then, I call various shops, transmission and independent, and with several dealers, for a complete clutch replacement. Seems a bit steep in price but that is probably local expenses/cost of doing business.

Don't forget to provide a proper GL4 MT fluid to any indie shop. Consider changing it now with Amsoil/Redline.... if you haven't already.

Some links to research since I don't support any brands or make recommendations. Research reading provided:

 
Don't forget to provide a proper GL4 MT fluid to any indie shop. Consider changing it now with Amsoil/Redline.... if you haven't already.
I appreciate the info. I’ll have a look at those.

I swapped the factory oil with Redline at about 10,000 miles. The last two fills have been with Amsoil GL 4 and it seems as smooth as the Redline.

The owners manual doesn’t even call for the driveline fluids to be changed. But I do it anyway.

My truck has been all over the Western Hemisphere. Alaska/Arctic Circle is next.
IMG_0361.jpeg
 
I just purchased a clutch/flywheel for my earlier '90 Toy- nobody had a reasonabl eprice or even stock for the Aisin unit I wanted and ended up getting a Sach's kit which was a reboxed Valeo. IF the oem gives great service- find out their supplier and put another in.
 
Just to clarify, did you mean to say that you DON'T know of a transmission shop that isn't happy with them? Thanks very much.
I am not Greasymechtech but it seems clear to me he stated it correctly. He knows a tranny shop that is not happy with LUK now. He also states LUK was good years ago, which implies they are not that good now.
 
Keep in mind “branded” clutches from LuK(Schaeffler/Conti) or Sachs(ZF) won’t use their own cover plate and friction plate for some applications - they’ll get it from PHC Valeo in Korea or a Chinese supplier. Fine if it’s a HyunKia or Nissan.

Exedy or Daikin is a fine choice for Toyotas, if you can’t pay OE scratch.
 
Back
Top