Odyssey oil burner...what oil?

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Jun 2, 2007
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Seattle, Washington
I tried a bunch of oils, maxlife 5w-20 and 5w-30, pup 5w-20/30, quaker state 5w-30. The first two (valvoline/pup) slowed it a little with the 5w-30. Current fill is a 50/50 blend of redline 0w-20 and 10w-30, 2k into the oil change with only a 1/4 quart to top off (using redline 5w-30). Slowed consumption by 3/4 of a quart over the 2k. Looks like the high ester content in the redline is helping clean things up but too expensive to do another round so probably go back to something cheaper next change. Next thing is get vcmmuzzler.

Bought the vcmtuner, installed it yesterday, wow should have purchased one a long time ago. No more delay under hard acceleration when ECO was engaged. Full power all the time. It'll be interesting to see if the oil turns darker as it has time to clean 3 cylinders it usually has shut off.
 

TeamZero

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Bought the vcmtuner, installed it yesterday, wow should have purchased one a long time ago. No more delay under hard acceleration when ECO was engaged. Full power all the time. It'll be interesting to see if the oil turns darker as it has time to clean 3 cylinders it usually has shut off.
Nice keep us up to date!
 
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If you wanna spend like $150 to get oil, you could try that Valvoline Premium Blue Restore stuff from a Cummins service center, if you think it's the rings that are stuck. But I wouldn't rule out leaky valve stem seals, If you can leave the van sit for a few days without out driving it then turn it over and have someone watch if any smoke comes out of the tail pipe, if it does then the valve stem seals are probably worn and a heavier HM might help reduce consumption some but there's no repair other than replacing the valve stem seals.
 
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I'm not 100% certain but IIRC Trav did a nice writeup on fixing those engines. It might pay to search the archives, or shoot him a PM.
 
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This thread may have some info that you find helpful.
 
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Is Trav still around? He always recommended to ignore Honda's 0w-20 reccomendation and use at lease a VW504/507 5W-30 or M1 0W-40.

I'm using M1 Truck & SUV going forward as I scored a good stash from TSC a while back. I haven't muzzled yet, but will be soon as I'm not feeling that lucky. At 89k miles, I don't want to press my luck.

2013 was supposedly the last MY that had the VCM issues, but I doubt that.
 
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Bought the vcmtuner, installed it yesterday, wow should have purchased one a long time ago. No more delay under hard acceleration when ECO was engaged. Full power all the time. It'll be interesting to see if the oil turns darker as it has time to clean 3 cylinders it usually has shut off.
500 miles into the vcmtuner II, working good, no hiccups. No oil usage, and as expected the oil turned darker than the fit at 1000 miles on the new oil. Other observations, no lifter tick or any other noises coming from the v6 which is nice. Vtec kicks in normally with a nice smooth transition. Also noticed the gas smell when I check the oil is almost nonexistent. Overall the 130$ spent seems to be paying off as the gas mile hasn't decreased, and has only yielded positive results thus far. When it hits 1500 miles I'll know better if oil consumption has diminished.
 

UncleDave

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I have driven quite a few Hondas with the VCM technology and it has worked seamlessly. Never even heard of issues until I just did a google search.

Early gen had some issues, and allowed 6-4-3 operation.

Current gen has had intentional work done on the engagement system and friction reduction, as well as now only allowing 6 or 3 and having a dual frequency motor mount to coomodate. Its no more obtrusive than shifting to a tall gear quickly in a manual box, or dealing with a fried skip shift box.

To my mind the results are nothing short of phenomenal, and well with whatever minor NVH it may contribute and for that mater road surfaces make a FAR bigger different than current VCM.

The fact that I can get 30 MPG in a 4 door AWD mid sized pickup at 70 MPH that can tow 5K pounds or carry 1500LB is amazing to me as is the 213 cubic inch engine that blazes out just shy of 300/300 and go 10K between oil changes.

Compared to what I grew up with this thing is incredible in scope.
 
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May 11, 2013
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Early gen had some issues, and allowed 6-4-3 operation.

Current gen has had intentional work done on the engagement system and friction reduction, as well as now only allowing 6 or 3 and having a dual frequency motor mount to coomodate. Its no more obtrusive than shifting to a tall gear quickly in a manual box, or dealing with a fried skip shift box.

To my mind the results are nothing short of phenomenal, and well with whatever minor NVH it may contribute and for that mater road surfaces make a FAR bigger different than current VCM.

The fact that I can get 30 MPG in a 4 door AWD mid sized pickup at 70 MPH that can tow 5K pounds or carry 1500LB is amazing to me as is the 213 cubic inch engine that blazes out just shy of 300/300 and go 10K between oil changes.

Compared to what I grew up with this thing is incredible in scope.
I will tell you Dave if I did not already have my bare bones 05 GMC Sierra I would be looking hard at getting the Ridgeline. As it is I'm considering to add a midsize SUV to my driveway when I retire. The Subaru Outback, Honda Passport are worth looking at. The Honda having a powerful V6 I figure is more reliable than the other SUV's that are getting power with turbochargers. Just my thoughts......
 
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I don’t know if I’d run 5W-30 if it calls for 0W-20. Maybe a 0W-30.

The 5W spec is at -30C
The 0W spec is at -35C

Unless you're getting down anywhere near that, it's highly unlikely you'd notice a difference between 0w30 and 5w30.

Here in Texas we get normal engine lifetimes running 5w20 in vehicles that were spec'd for 0w20.

I run 10w30 in my vehicle that is spec'd for 5w20, runs awesome.

OP: I have seen Trav recommend M1 ESP for these engines, just FYI.
 
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Friend just bought a 2011 odyssey(190K klms) with 3.5v6 that is a bit of an oil burner, 4L in 5k klms. 0/20 is what's called for, has anyone bumped up to 5/30 and seen a drop in oil consumption? I know thats no fix for stuck rings( i assume....pcv is good and clean), just wondered if anyone has been down this road.
Have a 2002 Odyssey. I don’t know how equivalent they are, but when I switched to the 5-30, oil consumption immediately stopped. I have about three years and 50,000 miles on the 5-30 with no issues
 
Joined
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Seattle, Washington
Bought the vcmtuner, installed it yesterday, wow should have purchased one a long time ago. No more delay under hard acceleration when ECO was engaged. Full power all the time. It'll be interesting to see if the oil turns darker as it has time to clean 3 cylinders it usually has shut off.
Just updating. 8000 miles - 2 oil changes. Total 1 quart burned and very little gas smell in the extracted oil. Thanks everyone for turning me onto the vcmtuner.
 
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First thing I did after buying our ‘19 was to buy a VCM device. And supposedly VCM-3 is a lot better than the first 2 iterations but still, not going to bother taking a chance.
 
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Jury is out for me on the tuner still...I'm more concerned with fuel dilution with the DI being it is a short tripper and I'm in a very cold climate. I can smell fuel in the oil during the winter, I'm giving M1 0W-40 a spin to see how it does on about a 9 month/4,000 OCI. One thing I noticed immediately after the change was that VTEC activation seemed less harsh, and as many find the engine has quieted down some. Not like that matters though as all you hear is the injectors anyways!
 
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Jury is out for me on the tuner still...I'm more concerned with fuel dilution with the DI being it is a short tripper and I'm in a very cold climate. I can smell fuel in the oil during the winter, I'm giving M1 0W-40 a spin to see how it does on about a 9 month/4,000 OCI. One thing I noticed immediately after the change was that VTEC activation seemed less harsh, and as many find the engine has quieted down some. Not like that matters though as all you hear is the injectors anyways!
With it being a direct injection motor M1 0W-40 may not be the best thing to use long term given the 1.36% sulfated ash, if you want a heavier oil I'd give and ACEA C3 oil Castrol Edge LL or Pennzoil Euro L a try, they're a heavy 30 with a high HTHS150 (>3.5) , they also carry stringent manufacturer approvals like VW 504/507 and MB229.51, Porsche C30 and BMW LL-04 in PPEL's case. You could also use Mobil1 ESP but it tends to run like $10/qt, or Castrol Edge C3 but it's typically $40/jug.
 
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With it being a direct injection motor M1 0W-40 may not be the best thing to use long term given the 1.36% sulfated ash, if you want a heavier oil I'd give and ACEA C3 oil Castrol Edge LL or Pennzoil Euro L a try, they're a heavy 30 with a high HTHS150 (>3.5) , they also carry stringent manufacturer approvals like VW 504/507 and MB229.51, Porsche C30 and BMW LL-04 in PPEL's case. You could also use Mobil1 ESP but it tends to run like $10/qt, or Castrol Edge C3 but it's typically $40/jug.
Yeah I have considered that but haven't been able to find any actual evidence that running high saps is detrimental to the valves. From what I can see it seems that DI engines prone to carbon are going to get carbon, and a faulty PCV valve is more of a concern than oil with high ash. But, I'd love to be shown positively that I should avoid it in my application. Practically, I run it in my non-DI VQ and all my OPE so it's easy to throw the MDX into the mix.
 
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