Odds of turning 42 year old bolts/nuts......

[SuperEd73]

Hello BITOG,

I'm planning on doing a bit of suspension work on my old '68 Polara. My sway bar bushings are shot. I can see all the hardware I would need to remove to get the old bushings out but I'm concerned about turning nuts & bolts that haven't moved most likely since the car was built. I currently have PB Blaster and WD-40 at home.

I'm also noticing what sounds like an exaust flange leak on the same car. I haven't determined if the exaust is leaking from the manifold gasket yet or the flange at the end of the manifold. Most likely the manifold to cylinder nuts haven't moved in 42 years either. Dual exaust system was installed probably about 15 years ago so it's been a while since the flange bolts have moved as well.

Any tips/tricks?

Thanks!

 

[pidster]

Soak, soak soak and using an impact wrench rather than sheer torque will break less of them.

Have new bolts, drill bits & tap&die set on hand cause youll prob break some.

 

[bruno]

The exhaust bolts will be a PITA but the others will respond well to a good soaking in the snake oil of your choice .

 

[Johnny]

I don't think the WD-40 will do you much good but the PB Blaster might. Spray it on, let it soak, spray some more. I would probably plan on spraying and soaking for a few days before I tried to break something loose.

 

[MrBeachcomber]

After working on restoring old 1963-1967 String Rays and other vintage Corvettes, I can only echo what everyone else has said. Just based upon my personal experience, I recommend:

1. PB Blaster and plenty of soak time.

2. air impact wrenches

3. acetylene torch for heating up exhaust system bolts to cherry red and then quenching with 20-30 weight oil. (Messy, but effective!)

Good luck!

 

[mechtech2]

PB is good.
For sway bar end links, don't bother - just cut them . Fast.

 

[_Wes_]

PB Blaster & Leverage... You'll get it loose or break something while trying

 

[demarpaint]

Kroil or PB Blaster would be my choice. Tap them to set up some vibration then as others said soak, soak, and soak again. An impact gun with a good socket should get it off. Did I say soak, soak, soak..... Soak over night or longer if possible.

 

[Kaboomba]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
PB is good.
For sway bar end links, don't bother - just cut them . Fast.


+1

On mine I used my Sawzall with a 12" bi-metal blade. ONE MINUTE link removal!

 

[Kaboomba]

Also, if you can, after you apply the PB and wait, whack the offending bolt heads as hard as you can with a ball peen hammer, without it bouncing back and hitting you in the 'ead (OW).

K

 

[pidster]

Originally Posted By: Kaboomba
Also, if you can, after you apply the PB and wait, whack the offending bolt heads as hard as you can with a ball peen hammer, without it bouncing back and hitting you in the 'ead (OW).

K


Very true, some good hard wacks will create microscopic cracks in all that rust + rock things a little, allowing your PB blaster or penetrating oil of choice to get in even deeper. Like I said though, expect to have to drill, retap & new bolt at least one or two. I've snapped countless on my 15YO car nevermind 42 lol.

I also find that the "Structural" or "load bearing" bolts if that makes sense, like ones holding strut to steering knuckle, brake calipers on etc. Are almost always salvageable while the smaller less critical bolts are of lesser quality & snap easier.

 

[johnd]

Quote:
acetylene torch for heating up exhaust system bolts to cherry red


I wouldn't even think of trying to get out an exaust flange bolt without heating it-they are sure to break otherwise. I take them out while they are still red hot. They squeak but they come out.

 

[Papa Bear]

I worked at Chrysler in '68 and it amazes me that the nuts and bolts held together for 42 yrs.....

 

[labman]

Originally Posted By: johnd
Quote:
acetylene torch for heating up exhaust system bolts to cherry red


I wouldn't even think of trying to get out an exaust flange bolt without heating it-they are sure to break otherwise. I take them out while they are still red hot. They squeak but they come out.


It is much easier to dig out the torch before you break things off.

 

[Trvlr500]

I've got a '73 Cadillac and with all the work I've done on it over the years (I've owned it for 15) I have never run into a bolt that didn't come right out. Even suspension pieces.

I don't know what kind of metal they used on them but I've always found that REALLY strange. Exhaust bolts are an entirely different story but i never had to mess with those. When the engine was rebuilt they took care of that.

I just rebuilt all the supspension front and rear and while the front was done about 10 years ago the rear had never been touched. Everything just came right out but I did soak with PB for a few days before I went to work on it.

You may be surprised on your's. Soak everything for a few days and you may find it easier than you expect. Take a wire brush to everything to get the surface rust off of the threads etc. so the PB can work it's way in. Tapping on them as was already mentioned is also a good idea.

 

[SuperEd73]

Many thanks for all the replies!!

I think I might leave the exaust leak to an exaust shop to figure out. I really don't have access to a high heat torch and for that matter I don't think I have strong enough tools to handle those bolts. I do have plenty of PB blaster though so I'll definitely start cleaning/treating the sway bar bolts well ahead of time. PB Blaster did work well when I needed to remove the nuts from the studs that hold the front seat in place when I changed the carpeting.

Ed B.

 

[gtx510]

if your endlinks are really crusty you just replace them with the bushings
http://www.suspension.com/s.b.bushings.htm urethane bushings

got a 1/2" breaker bar for the exhaust?

 

[cjcride]

Is the 15W40 a bit thick for the Polara?