Octane requirement for my Volvos?

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Hi All,

I have been confused by the manuals for my Volvos and from forums I have read. Both my cars have the B230F engine but one is a 1985 244GL and the other is a 1994 945 Wagon. The 244GL states to use 87 octane and the 945 states 91. Why are they different if they are the same engine and why do other Volvo sites and forums states to use 91 octane for this engine no matter what the manual states? The price of gas is so high and I want to know if I would hurt anything by using 87 in both vehicles year around. Please let me know what you think as I want to do the right thing for my cars. Thank you.
 
I go by what the sticker on the gas door says to use. I stick with what the manufacturers recommend. If you use regular in a car that is made to run on premium it may ping and knock. Not very familiar with Volvos but the newer ones seem recommend premium. Don't higher compression engines use premium gas?

My VW manual for example says for the 2.0L to use Regular 87, and 91 Premium for maximum engine performance.
 
I would run no more than 89. Why spend the extra money on octane if it isn't needed. I have a 87 Turbo wagon. The manual says to use 91 and I run 89 most of the time in it.
No problems so far in its 348K miles of life.

Your owners manual states:
Octane Rating

Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with an octane rating, AKI of 91, or above. AKI (ANTI KNOCK INDEX) is an average of the Research Octane Number, RON, and the Motor Octane Number, MON, (RON + MON/ 2).
The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON 91).

The two words you need to pay attention to is optimum performance. Check your gas mileage with a tank or two of 91 and a tank or two of 89. If there is no difference in fuel mileage than go with the cheaper 89.
My owners manuals for my 87 745T and the 97 960 both state to use 91. I run 89 with little or no performance difference between the two octanes.
BTW both run terrible on 87.
 
first thing you need to do is understand what octane requirement is. Simply going by a manuf's recommendation isn't always in your best interest, not so much for octane requirement but there's a big information gap on the subject.
You mentioned the same engine ( i know nothing about volvos) but there's a 9 year difference- 1985 to 1994! Many things change on engines from year to year, even though they're the same engine. One of the main things to look for is the engine's compression ratio. Higher compression ratios, 10:1 or 10.5:1 and higher will usually require 91 or 93 octane fuel. But, as an fyi, compression ratio doesn't always mean higher cylinder pressures. Valve timing also plays a big part, and this will change from year to year because it plays a big part with emissions. What this means is engine running 10.5:1 compression may be able to run on 87 octane whereas another engine running 9:1 compression can requre 93 octane. compression ratio is just a quick and dirty thing to go by. Other influences causing the requirement of higher octane are turbos and superchargers, because even though the motor's CR may be low at 8:1 or 9:1 the forced induction adds boost (pressure) which raises cylinder pressures and also adds heat. Also check and see if the engine's you're comparing have turbos, if one does and one does not then that is a big influence on fuel octane requirement. And even if both motors have turbos, one might run higher boost than the other which would most likely raise octane requirements. Another thing to consider is environmental temperatures and engine operating temperatures. Newer engines, because of emissions, run higher coolant temperatures, and that may cause a need for higher octane fuel. What an owner's manual won't tell you is simply running in hot weather can either cause a need for higher octane or prevent you from using lower octane.

Knowing whether you need to run higher octane, and knowing whether you can't run lower octane, is what you need to know. If it's cool outside, you drive easy, and don't run high boost then you can get away with using lower octane fuel and probably not notice any performance loss or mileage loss. But if you run full boost with the pedal to the floor every time the light turns green, and it's 120+ outside, then there's a good chance if you run lower octane fuel you will get significant amounts of pinging/detonation which can cause damage. Some pinging once in a while, especially under hard acceleration, is normal and won't hurt anything. But the degree to which it does ping and how often and hard will be up to you to decide if it's acceptable and whether you either need higher octane or ease off the pedal. I would say if you're on flat highway road going 60-70 and step on it a little to pass someone and it pings and you can hear it, would be an indication you *need* higher octane fuel.

The topic of octane vs engine performance has to do with the ability of the engine computer to retard or back off ignition timing. More igntion timing (advance) results in higher cylinder pressures = more power = more performance and even better gas mileage. When you run lower octane fuel and there's pinging, the knock sensor detects it, and the computer compensates by retarding ignition timing to reduce cylinder pressure in the hopes of preventing the pinging or detonation. This also results in less power = less performance, and possibly less economy but these numbers might be too small to even measure depending on how you drive. This is why you hear or read, 91 or 93 recommended or for optimum performance, but okay to use 87. This is just a rule of thumb, because the computer can only compensate so much... by retarding ignition timing only so much. This is on newer cars, with OBD-II computers. Not sure if OBD-I computers had that capability. For the car years in question, I doubt a 1985 car could, a 1994 is questionable. This could be another factor where the same engine can have different fuel requirements, as there was a huge leap in computer and sensor technology on cars from 1985 to 1994.
 
Generally speaking, the newer more sophisticated engine management systems such as the Motronics used in modern Volvos are designed to allow operation on lower than specified octane fuels, but at the expense of fuel economy and power.

There are a lot of Volvo dealers around here telling folks it is OK to run 87, even in the HP turbos. And it is, and they will indeed run on it with no risk of engine problems. But the mileage drop is significant, and rises dramatically with some engines. It's so significant in most cases that as the pump price of 87 rises (and the percentage price gap between it and 93 shrinks), 93 delivers more miles per fuel dollar spent. In the post Katrina $2.50+/gal gasoline world, I run 93 in all our Volvos (not just the R), and save money by doing so. And the engines do run better and stronger on 93.

On the older bricks, I would stick more closely with the manufacturer recommendations, as the engine controls are not nearly as sophisticated in coping with octane differences. A couple of points down should be OK, but I would not go too much lower than that.

It's also cheaper in many cases to "blend" your own midgrade with regular and premium than paying the midgrade pump price.
 
Wow, what great information and thank you all for taking the time to give me such great insight. The 91 does seem to run very well in the cars but that would seem to be expected. It is not a huge problem to keep running the 91 as it does appear to give a little better performance and gas mileage. Thank you all again!
 
Performance != fuel economy (necessarily). Just because you didn't notice a change in fuel economy between 89 and 91 doesn't mean your engine wouldn't have made more power. If you don't care, fine, but that doesn't mean there's "no difference". Also, if you generally run below the optimum recommended AKI rating your engine timing will be retarded by the ECU based on input from the knock sensors. When you stop to fill up with 91 to give it a try everything won't instantly be turned up to full advance. The ECU will slowly (often over hundreds of miles) turn up the timing in an exploratory manner. If there's no knocking it will slowly continue to do so until it's reached full advance and other conditions for maximum performance.

Most manuals have a range, as has already been copied here from Volvo. If your only concern is fuel economy, try a couple of tanks of various grades within your range and see what works best for economy. If your concerned about engine power as well - make sure you test that after the engine has had time to adapt. Alternatively, you can force an ECU reset. This can commonly be done by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes or so. Of course every car is different so your mileage may vary with this technique. This ECU reset is likely to erase all "learned" data and the engine will run on factory maps and re-learn everything about the engine running condition and fuel.

It's generally pointless to run octane ratings higher than the "optimum performance" number in the manual unless you're specifically after additive packs like V-power that is only available in AKI grades above your top number. Variances will be required for high altitudes or heavily carboned engines with higher compression than the factory intended.

Quote:


I would run no more than 89. Why spend the extra money on octane if it isn't needed. I have a 87 Turbo wagon. The manual says to use 91 and I run 89 most of the time in it.
No problems so far in its 348K miles of life.

Your owners manual states:
Octane Rating

Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with an octane rating, AKI of 91, or above. AKI (ANTI KNOCK INDEX) is an average of the Research Octane Number, RON, and the Motor Octane Number, MON, (RON + MON/ 2).
The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON 91).

The two words you need to pay attention to is optimum performance. Check your gas mileage with a tank or two of 91 and a tank or two of 89. If there is no difference in fuel mileage than go with the cheaper 89.
My owners manuals for my 87 745T and the 97 960 both state to use 91. I run 89 with little or no performance difference between the two octanes.
BTW both run terrible on 87.


 
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