OCI’s for GDI

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The factory specified 7,500 mile OCI sounds about perfect for my GDI Sonata

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If you are happy with the old-school add-pack for your GDI, go for it.
SN Plus will change it though. You may need to shop for another brand to find an add-pack like that. It's increasingly harder to find, since Dexos/SN Plus has moved in. Your post analysis will be two years old soon.
 
Originally Posted by blupupher

With mostly short trips, lots of idling, and occasional highway, it is more severe service than routine, so I feel 5000 miles with syn should be fine.

If I had any TGDI, I would stick with severe service schedule.


So, what is special about your 3.3L V6 that you can ignore Hyundai's 3750 OCI for severe service?
 
Originally Posted by Brigadier
So, what is special about your 3.3L V6 that you can ignore Hyundai's 3750 OCI for severe service?

Not speaking for him/her but I suspect that Hyundai's interval is based on conventional or maybe semi-synthetic so a longer interval should definitely be safe on full synthetic.
 
Originally Posted by Brigadier
Originally Posted by blupupher

With mostly short trips, lots of idling, and occasional highway, it is more severe service than routine, so I feel 5000 miles with syn should be fine.

If I had any TGDI, I would stick with severe service schedule.


So, what is special about your 3.3L V6 that you can ignore Hyundai's 3750 OCI for severe service?

Nothing, except I am not always driving in the severe service during a single OCI.

According to the 11 items in my owners manual that constitute severe service (and yes, I know you do not have to meet all 11, just 1 can put you into it):

  • A - Repeatedly driving short distance of less than 5 miles (8 km) in normal temperature or less than 10 miles (16 km) in freezing temperature
  • B - Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
  • C- Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
  • D- Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
  • E - Driving in sandy areas
  • F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)
  • G- Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
  • H- Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack
  • I - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towing
  • J - Driving over 106 mph (170 km/h)
  • K - Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions

I only occasionally meet 4 of them (A, B, F and K).
Wife picks up and drops off kids from school, 2 miles each way, 5 days a week.
It is short distance, but there are longer drives more often than not aside from those. This is only during the school year. And never below freezing. So depending on the week, it may or may not meet A.
Some idling at pickup, but not extensive. Again, only during the school year, so another depends on the week if it meets B.
Heavy traffic over 90°F, in summer time it may happens, but only 2-3 times a month, if that. Again, kind of meets F depending on the month.
Frequent stop and go, that is the same as heavy traffic, not very often. So nearly meets K.

So I have some elements of severe, but not consistently enough for me to consider a 3750 OCI, but a little more than I would be comfortable doing a 7500 mile OCI with a GDI engine.
Plus, since I am using a 10w-30 or 5w-40 synthetic, I figure 5000 miles is a safe number.

Like I said, I may do a UOA at some point to verify this, but I am comfortable even without it. The UOA may show I am fine doing 7500 miles, maybe need to do 3750 miles.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by Brigadier
So, what is special about your 3.3L V6 that you can ignore Hyundai's 3750 OCI for severe service?

Not speaking for him/her but I suspect that Hyundai's interval is based on conventional or maybe semi-synthetic so a longer interval should definitely be safe on full synthetic.


Their owner's manual doesn't specify conventional or synthetic.
 
Originally Posted by blupupher
Originally Posted by Brigadier
Originally Posted by blupupher

With mostly short trips, lots of idling, and occasional highway, it is more severe service than routine, so I feel 5000 miles with syn should be fine.

If I had any TGDI, I would stick with severe service schedule.


So, what is special about your 3.3L V6 that you can ignore Hyundai's 3750 OCI for severe service?

Nothing, except I am not always driving in the severe service during a single OCI.

According to the 11 items in my owners manual that constitute severe service (and yes, I know you do not have to meet all 11, just 1 can put you into it):

  • A - Repeatedly driving short distance of less than 5 miles (8 km) in normal temperature or less than 10 miles (16 km) in freezing temperature
  • B - Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances
  • C- Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads
  • D- Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
  • E - Driving in sandy areas
  • F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C)
  • G- Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road
  • H- Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack
  • I - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towing
  • J - Driving over 106 mph (170 km/h)
  • K - Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions

I only occasionally meet 4 of them (A, B, F and K).
Wife picks up and drops off kids from school, 2 miles each way, 5 days a week.
It is short distance, but there are longer drives more often than not aside from those. This is only during the school year. And never below freezing. So depending on the week, it may or may not meet A.
Some idling at pickup, but not extensive. Again, only during the school year, so another depends on the week if it meets B.
Heavy traffic over 90°F, in summer time it may happens, but only 2-3 times a month, if that. Again, kind of meets F depending on the month.
Frequent stop and go, that is the same as heavy traffic, not very often. So nearly meets K.

So I have some elements of severe, but not consistently enough for me to consider a 3750 OCI, but a little more than I would be comfortable doing a 7500 mile OCI with a GDI engine.
Plus, since I am using a 10w-30 or 5w-40 synthetic, I figure 5000 miles is a safe number.

Like I said, I may do a UOA at some point to verify this, but I am comfortable even without it. The UOA may show I am fine doing 7500 miles, maybe need to do 3750 miles.



What is your average speed over an OCI?
 
Originally Posted by Railrust
I don't go over 5,000 miles on my direct injected engines anymore. I did that once with my Lexus LS460...was doing 7,500 mile oil changes...things just got weird. I'd start using oil right at the 5,000 mile mark, don't know if it sheared, or was diluted or what. But right after 5,000 miles, all the way to 7,500 miles it'd consume oil. Before 5,000 miles? Not a drop. Weird. Thing was doing great all the way up until 150,000 miles, then the rings were shot. Started drinking oil...1 quart every 1,000 miles. Traded it in at 187,000 miles. Don't know if the "extended drains" were the cause or not, but I think it was with that direct injection.

Now I have a 2018 5.3 Chevy Silverado with direct injection. Some days the oil smells like fuel, some days it doesn't. It does use a little oil in between 5,000 mile oil changes, maybe 3/4 a quart. I installed a catch can and check the oil level frequently.

The question I'm toying with now is...do I go out and buy 0w20 Super Tech because of the low mileage intervals or spend a little more for Pennzoil Platinum? I have 25,000 miles on the truck and so far I've been using the Pennzoil, not sure if I'm going to keep doing that - the Super Tech looks like it has a pretty good additive package and the Dexos license.

*I would be inclined to use a 5W30 syntetic D1 Gen 2 if your Silverado allows . If not , stay with the 0W20 and follow the severe schedule for oil changes using one of these synthetic D1 Gen 2 oils : Supertech Synthetic , Quaker State Ultimate Durability , Valvoline Advance Synthetic , Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum . The Quaker State WM every day price where I live is $19 for 5 qrts. The Pennzoil , Mobil 1 and Valvoline I only consider using on roll back pricing ... My Hyundai GDI 2.4L engine oil in suburban driving is pretty well trashed at the severe schedule mark (3,750 miles) ... Oil is black and stinks of fuel - I don't think long drain synthetic oils used in my former PFI engines ever smelled this bad at 7,500+ mile OCI's (lol) !! ... Of course , I could do a UOA and maybe push the oil to 5,000 miles or so on this GDI engine but I figure why bother ? I'll just set my oil minder for 4,000 miles and stock up on my prefered grade of 5W30 synthetic oils when on sale at WM rotating between known good brands I listed .
 
Originally Posted by Brigadier

What is your average speed over an OCI?


Only driven the vehicle for a little over 2000 miles since I got it, but average speed is 21.4 mph in those miles (I reset trip b when we bought it).
Past 300 miles it is 16.1 mpg.

I remember reading about somebody using average speed for figuring out an OCI.
 
Owner of 2017 Sonata 2.4L GDI ; over the course of 3,000 miles my suburban average miles per hour : 25MPH ... I too only meet a few of the severe category check list from time to time - but at such a low average MPH (25) I am leaning towards severe service category . *Another less often looked at OCI category is the number of hours on the oil ? I subscribe to no more than 150 hours on a OCI .
 
After an oil analysis (Motorcraft 5w30 semi/syn) through Amsoil/OilAnalyzers I went with 7500 miles on my 2.7 Ecoboost F150. In the 2.7's case, I believe if you run a decent 5w30 and simply go by the oil life monitor, you'll be fine.
 
In the case of of my 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 running Mobil 1 5W-30, UOAs consistently indicated that a 7,500 mile OCI was very conservative.
 
For our 2017 2.3 EB Explorer the iOLM always indicates to a 10,000 mi OCI no matter the season or driving circumstances. Being old and leery I did 3 UOA's. The first was a run of 7,000 mi with Mobil 1 5W-30 in the summer. While the viscosity sheared to near the minimum of a 30 weight oil the were metals in the oil were good. The second was using Motorcraft 5W-30 for 4,275, while the wear metals in the oil wear ok the viscosity had sheared well into a 20 weight oil in much shorter mileage. This was run during late summer to early December. The last UOA was run from early December to late May for 6,200 mi with lots of remote freezing starts, again used Mobil1 5W-30. The wear metals were fine and the shearing of the oil was less than the Motorcraft 5W-30, but into an upper 20 weight. I want to add that all the oils had plenty of TBN left. With our Turbo GDI engine Explorer I feel ok going ~7,500 miles in the non winter months and ~6,000+/- miles in the winter months using Mobil 1 5W-30.

Whimsey
 
I'm at 51,000 on my 2016 F150 2.7 ecoboost. So far I've done 11 oil changes, dumped factory fill at around 2K, again at 5K and every 5K after that. IOLM counts down like a clock and would recommend a 10K OCI if I followed it. I'm really pleased with the truck and totally surprised about the 2.7 moving a full size truck like it does.

No UOA's yet because I just keep forgetting or in a big hurry to get it done. 5w-30 Magnatec goes in most the time and a couple changes with 10w-30. I'm hoping for a long history with this truck so for me it is worth the added expense. My normal oil/filter change is $35 now.
 
Originally Posted by Tdog02
I'm at 51,000 on my 2016 F150 2.7 ecoboost. So far I've done 11 oil changes, dumped factory fill at around 2K, again at 5K and every 5K after that.


At 2K on the Hyundai odometer, my dipstick is still showing almost clear. I'm not changing it until it turns dark amber / nearly black. I suspect darkness will arrive at 4+K. Only other gauge to change prematurely is if I whiff a good dose of fuel on the dipstick, and/or the dipstick level rises.
 
Last edited:
T-GDI? 5k max. Our Mini is on a 3,333 mile schedule. IVD is directly correlated the amount of debris/soot in oil (as is timing chain wear). T-GDIs probably wear oil at a 3:1 ratio compared to a N/A port injected engine.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by Railrust
I don't go over 5,000 miles on my direct injected engines anymore. I did that once with my Lexus LS460...was doing 7,500 mile oil changes...things just got weird. I'd start using oil right at the 5,000 mile mark, don't know if it sheared, or was diluted or what. But right after 5,000 miles, all the way to 7,500 miles it'd consume oil. Before 5,000 miles? Not a drop. Weird. Thing was doing great all the way up until 150,000 miles, then the rings were shot. Started drinking oil...1 quart every 1,000 miles. Traded it in at 187,000 miles. Don't know if the "extended drains" were the cause or not, but I think it was with that direct injection.

Now I have a 2018 5.3 Chevy Silverado with direct injection. Some days the oil smells like fuel, some days it doesn't. It does use a little oil in between 5,000 mile oil changes, maybe 3/4 a quart. I installed a catch can and check the oil level frequently.

The question I'm toying with now is...do I go out and buy 0w20 Super Tech because of the low mileage intervals or spend a little more for Pennzoil Platinum? I have 25,000 miles on the truck and so far I've been using the Pennzoil, not sure if I'm going to keep doing that - the Super Tech looks like it has a pretty good additive package and the Dexos license.

*I would be inclined to use a 5W30 syntetic D1 Gen 2 if your Silverado allows . If not , stay with the 0W20 and follow the severe schedule for oil changes using one of these synthetic D1 Gen 2 oils : Supertech Synthetic , Quaker State Ultimate Durability , Valvoline Advance Synthetic , Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum . The Quaker State WM every day price where I live is $19 for 5 qrts. The Pennzoil , Mobil 1 and Valvoline I only consider using on roll back pricing ... My Hyundai GDI 2.4L engine oil in suburban driving is pretty well trashed at the severe schedule mark (3,750 miles) ... Oil is black and stinks of fuel - I don't think long drain synthetic oils used in my former PFI engines ever smelled this bad at 7,500+ mile OCI's (lol) !! ... Of course , I could do a UOA and maybe push the oil to 5,000 miles or so on this GDI engine but I figure why bother ? I'll just set my oil minder for 4,000 miles and stock up on my prefered grade of 5W30 synthetic oils when on sale at WM rotating between known good brands I listed .


I don't think it allows the 5w30 but maybe I'll give it a try when it's out of warranty for a summer run. I always notice the Quaker State Ultimate at Walmart, I'll have to try one of these times.

Just looking at the Hyundai severe use criteria, it looks like I'm meeting several of those points...I'm driving in cold weather, and although I'm don't do a lot of short trips I am driving at a constant speed on the highway for 60 miles a day and my engine speed stays pretty constant at one speed (because I use cruise control). And I live in New Hampshire, so I'm always climbing hills on steep inclines with the thing. Meanwhile in my wife's non direct inject car, the oil looks great after five thousand miles with a similar commute...so I run hers a bit longer. If I tried that on my truck I'd be dumping an additional 2 quarts into it and the oil would look terrible when I drain it. And her car (older Honda CRV) has 130,000 miles on it, while my truck has 25,000
 
I just checked the oil on my girlfriend's GDI Sonata. It has gone 1200 miles in 3 months. The oil is black. It does mostly short trips in cold weather. It doesn't smell as badly of fuel as last time I checked it. Oil level appears to be above full though so it has likely got some fuel in it.
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I just checked the oil on my girlfriend's GDI Sonata. It has gone 1200 miles in 3 months. The oil is black. It does mostly short trips in cold weather. It doesn't smell as badly of fuel as last time I checked it. Oil level appears to be above full though so it has likely got some fuel in it.

I would change it and keep changing it every 2K, until it remains clear at 1200 miles.
 
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