Oci suggestions for SR20DE motor with Castrol GTX

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
8
Location
Houston, Texas
When I first got my Infiniti G20t at 191k I changed the oil out at 192k with Castrol GTX hm and a Bosch filter back in April. Fast Forward to August at 196k I did the 2nd change. After the change I went to the local auto part store to recycle my oil. What I noticed was the oil was a light brown color not the usual black that I see sometimes. Was wondering if a 4k interval was ok or should I follow the manual and go for 7.5k interval?
 
Don't know why but I am very ocd about odd numbers lol. I'll give this change to 5k and see what it looks like when I pour it out. Thanks for the quick response by the way.
 
Originally Posted By: BerryChoppy
Don't know why but I am very ocd about odd numbers lol. I'll give this change to 5k and see what it looks like when I pour it out. Thanks for the quick response by the way.


You can not tell anything about the condition of motor oil from how it "pours out". Color means nothing, an oil can turn jet black within a short time but still be serviceable for 10,000 miles.

If you really want to know the condition of the oil, get a used oil analysis.

One of the only visual indicators of a too long run on the oil would be if it thickens excessively or you see chunks; color is meaningless.

I would go 5k on the oil myself, especially since you have a Bosch filter, which are known to rip the media during some intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: BerryChoppy
Don't know why but I am very ocd about odd numbers lol. I'll give this change to 5k and see what it looks like when I pour it out. Thanks for the quick response by the way.


You can not tell anything about the condition of motor oil from how it "pours out". Color means nothing, an oil can turn jet black within a short time but still be serviceable for 10,000 miles.

If you really want to know the condition of the oil, get a used oil analysis.

One of the only visual indicators of a too long run on the oil would be if it thickens excessively or you see chunks; color is meaningless.

I would go 5k on the oil myself, especially since you have a Bosch filter, which are known to rip the media during some intervals.



I don't normally agree with Memphis however he's absolutely correct here.

Colour is meaningless. If you can feel grit in the oil,or do the droplet test on a business card.
If the oil drop leaves soot behind,it may be overloaded,or the filter may be overwhelmed.
 
5k conventional and 7.5k full synthetic I feel safe with theses numbers. Altho the conventional is on the higher end and synthetic is on the lower.

Keep in mind I'm talking about quality oils.

I wouldn't trust a no name off brand oil as much.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis


I would go 5k on the oil myself, especially since you have a Bosch filter, which are known to rip the media during some intervals.

What do you mean by rip the media? Like the filter will break apart?
 
Last edited:
Personally, since there is no warranty, I would get Mobil 1 5w30 EP and a decent filter and run it 10k miles. SR's have smallish sumps but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

I ran the same combo in my turbo SR20det's (G20 with an Avinierswap and a 240SX with blacktop s13 sr20det) This was at nearly stock boost levels with a turbo timer on after a hard run.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BerryChoppy
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis


I would go 5k on the oil myself, especially since you have a Bosch filter, which are known to rip the media during some intervals.

What do you mean by rip the media? Like the filter will break apart?


There have been many reports of seperation in the media where it meets the end disc.

Check out this thread.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3360952/List_of_Purolator_failures
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: BerryChoppy
Don't know why but I am very ocd about odd numbers lol. I'll give this change to 5k and see what it looks like when I pour it out. Thanks for the quick response by the way.


You can not tell anything about the condition of motor oil from how it "pours out". Color means nothing, an oil can turn jet black within a short time but still be serviceable for 10,000 miles.

If you really want to know the condition of the oil, get a used oil analysis.

One of the only visual indicators of a too long run on the oil would be if it thickens excessively or you see chunks; color is meaningless.

I would go 5k on the oil myself, especially since you have a Bosch filter, which are known to rip the media during some intervals.



I don't normally agree with Memphis however he's absolutely correct here.

Colour is meaningless. If you can feel grit in the oil,or do the droplet test on a business card.
If the oil drop leaves soot behind,it may be overloaded,or the filter may be overwhelmed.



What don't we agree on?
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Personally, since there is no warranty, I would get Mobil 1 5w30 EP and a decent filter and run it 10k miles. SR's have smallish sumps but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

I ran the same combo in my turbo SR20det's (G20 with an Avinierswap and a 240SX with blacktop s13 sr20det) This was at nearly stock boost levels with a turbo timer on after a hard run.

Personally on my budget (as stated on my first post to this site) Mobile 1 is out of my range but one day when I get enough money I will get M1 but for now I am happy with Castrol GTX hm as that is what I have ran in my Camry before and was happy with the way it worked. What other filter brand recommendation would you give?
 
I would recommend Fram filters. Fram Tough Guard for up to 10,000 miles or Fram Ultra for up to 15,000 miles.

Fram Ultra's are some of the best built filters and also highest efficiency you can get. They are over 99% efficient at particles 20 microns and greater and 80% efficient with particles 5 microns and greater; nearly impossible to find a better filter, even if you wanted to spend more.

Tough guards are good too, they are 99% @ 20 microns, but the Ultras are better. The Ultra is the ONLY dual layer synthetic media filter on the market right now. I run my ultra for 15,000 miles no matter what even if i change my oil every 5-6k.
 
The manual was written in [year of your car], 10-20 years ago. 7500 miles on 1991-2002 oil (API SG-SL), even the most recent 2002 spec SL is FAR inferior to even the cheapest SN dino you can find today.

The Castrol GTX should easily handle 7500 miles. Any synthetic could probably handle 10k, and Castrol Edge EP and M1 EP could very well do the 15k they claim. Extended filters like the M1 filter and Fram Ultra also claim 15k ability, and Wix XP and Bosch Distance Plus should also be able to handle 15k.

The regular Wix filter (Napa Gold) and Purolator Synthetic should be able to handle 10k. The Purolator Synthetic has a nice textured grip for easy installation and removal (their mid-tier PureOne has it too, and a bright golden yellow color, but some people have reported quality issues, but people have run them to 10k with no problem).

Does the engine look clean under the oil cap?

For an oil filter, get the Napa Platinum. It will be on sale starting on Monday and for the whole month of September for $7.49 or so. Napa Platinum is Wix XP and deigned for extended drains.

Fram Ultra is the only Fram I'd buy (the lower tier Frams are cheaply made with cardboard); there is a $2 rebate if you buy it by Sunday (must be purchased on or before 8/31). The only car I'd buy a Tough Guard for is the Focus Zetec because filters for those cars can be hard to come by.

Avoid the K&N filter, because they cheapened it and outsourced to Mexico, and the quality is FAR below what it used to be, without passing the savings on to the customer.
 
Originally Posted By: BerryChoppy
Originally Posted By: jayg
Personally, since there is no warranty, I would get Mobil 1 5w30 EP and a decent filter and run it 10k miles. SR's have smallish sumps but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

I ran the same combo in my turbo SR20det's (G20 with an Avinierswap and a 240SX with blacktop s13 sr20det) This was at nearly stock boost levels with a turbo timer on after a hard run.

Personally on my budget (as stated on my first post to this site) Mobile 1 is out of my range but one day when I get enough money I will get M1 but for now I am happy with Castrol GTX hm as that is what I have ran in my Camry before and was happy with the way it worked. What other filter brand recommendation would you give?


Does the Nissan filter have combination cellulose and synthetic microfiber filtering media?
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn

Does the engine look clean under the oil cap?

When I open the oil cap I do not see any visible sludge. Wish there was a NAPA closer to my home the closest one to me is out in Pasadena TX since the Pearland location shut down. Might have to get some Wix filters on rockauto when they get cheap.
 
I've run GTX for multiple drains over several years in a few cars. Often the drain would come out looking "new". In two cars, these were low mileage engines, so did think much about it. I wasn't pushing the oci by any means. Anyway, when I changed the legacy to PP/PU, the drain was very dark for the same interval.

I think GTX is a very good oil for lubrication and "smoothness". However, the detergent/dispersant package may not be top notch. Many valve train picks show varnish when GTX has been used extensively. Does this matter? Maybe is some engines with narrow passages or ring issues? Personally, I've moved on. Still run castrol products, see sig, but haven't used GTX lately. Maybe SN formulation is better? SM was the last I used, and it may have been SL in the legacy (2006?).

If money is tight, go right to Supertech dino, or Mobil Super 5k. Plenty of good uoa's around for those oils to reference.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
The manual was written in [year of your car], 10-20 years ago. 7500 miles on 1991-2002 oil (API SG-SL), even the most recent 2002 spec SL is FAR inferior to even the cheapest SN dino you can find today.

The Castrol GTX should easily handle 7500 miles. Any synthetic could probably handle 10k, and Castrol Edge EP and M1 EP could very well do the 15k they claim. Extended filters like the M1 filter and Fram Ultra also claim 15k ability, and Wix XP and Bosch Distance Plus should also be able to handle 15k.

The regular Wix filter (Napa Gold) and Purolator Synthetic should be able to handle 10k. The Purolator Synthetic has a nice textured grip for easy installation and removal (their mid-tier PureOne has it too, and a bright golden yellow color, but some people have reported quality issues, but people have run them to 10k with no problem).

Does the engine look clean under the oil cap?

For an oil filter, get the Napa Platinum. It will be on sale starting on Monday and for the whole month of September for $7.49 or so. Napa Platinum is Wix XP and deigned for extended drains.

Fram Ultra is the only Fram I'd buy (the lower tier Frams are cheaply made with cardboard); there is a $2 rebate if you buy it by Sunday (must be purchased on or before 8/31). The only car I'd buy a Tough Guard for is the Focus Zetec because filters for those cars can be hard to come by.

Avoid the K&N filter, because they cheapened it and outsourced to Mexico, and the quality is FAR below what it used to be, without passing the savings on to the customer.


I'm not sure why you have such difficulty finding a filter for your Zetec. They sell the FL400s nearly everywhere.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top