quote:
Originally posted by quick_16:
quote:
Originally posted by Motorbike:
The Fe is mostly corrosion . Recommend using the or the equivilants of the VP M2 VP or the Klotz Uplon Uplon .
If it were mine I'd be changing the oil every race weekend . It's just part of racing with a methanol fed motor . The equivalent of those two lubes will help with your corrosion problem and changing the oil more often will aid in reducing the valve train wear you have and remove contaminants .
I also would stay with the Oberg style filter you are using . Any racer using methanol will know why and I'm relatively certain thats why you chose it .
The ending viscosity is 17.3 for this oil FWIW .
Moterbike. I do not have a dilution problem so do not consider my stuff to be in the same class as most of the other methanol race engines. Good ring and valve seal and lean F/A ratio. I like the ability to inspect and clean the system one and have always used them.
Sorry you lost me on a few comments.
"The ending viscosity is 17.3 for this oil FWIW ."
????
"The Fe is mostly corrosion . Recommend using the or the equivilants of the VP M2" What's that an additive? I thought the iron was from cylinder wall ware????
I'll try again to help you for
free . speaking of , why don't you post Blackstones comments ? You paid them to analise your engine oil . It's listed as testing positive for fuel then further down it's listed as
fuel % >.05 . Ask them what the deal is . The oil thinned almost 2 cSt's down to 17.3 from new telling it's dilluted or suffered perminate vi loss from shear . Suspect a bit of both .
That said I provided clickable links for description of the VP M2 , if you were to click on it and it will tell you much . I would recommend trying this or simalar products then retest your oil . I do not recommend trying it mid interval , you'll not get exacting results . Even now since it's started the corrosion process the Fe might always be high until the engine block is freshened and vatted .
It does not matter whether or not you have methanol dillution of the oil , methanol will still corrode the cylinder walls and rings . Dillution will get the other ferrous metals internaly to include the block , cam and ect ect. If you do try it , use new engine oil , the Fe
will come down depending how well the motor block was machined , general condition ect .
Once again , you are running this oil " which would not be my personal type and choice " too long and I don't understand why unless it's a money thing seeing you have posted elswhere that you do not wish to use a synthetic due to cost reasons .
You really do need to dump your motor oil often to get rid of the contaminates since for the most part it's unfiltered as just
one of the reasons for using fresh oil in this motor .You cannot go by the visual look alone on this engine . I suspect what little ZDDP this oil uses some of it is now non functional as anti-wear after 25 passes and whatever warm-up time to heat the rods ect .
You also wrote :
Yea I'm trying to lean but finding many diverse opinions. Almost need a moving average algorithm to make heads or tails of it all.
Don't take advise from anyone who has zero experience racing with methanol fuel or for that matter any type
real racing period then would be my opinion. It's a safer route to take .
I recommend paying
Terry Dyson for his services .
Adios from me on this topic and good luck in whatever you do
[ March 12, 2004, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
