O2 sensors Economy vs Premium brand

[supton]

Depends on the mileage, they say 50-60k but they seem to last about 100-125k. Had to do my upstream sensors on my Taurus at around 120k, threw a code.

My '99 Camry, '03 CRV and '10 Tundra all seemed to need around 160k. My departed '04 TDi needed one at 255k but that was because the turbo grenaded; apparently O2 sensors do not like oil. Am waiting for the sensors to go on our '11 Camry, 224k and counting, not sure if I want to proactively replace or just wait it out.

I think every single sensor I replaced was with a Denso. I didn't feel like messing around, and none of them were that expensive ($100 and down, if not significantly less--don't remember now).

 

[Wolf359]

My '99 Camry, '03 CRV and '10 Tundra all seemed to need around 160k. My departed '04 TDi needed one at 255k but that was because the turbo grenaded; apparently O2 sensors do not like oil. Am waiting for the sensors to go on our '11 Camry, 224k and counting, not sure if I want to proactively replace or just wait it out.

I think every single sensor I replaced was with a Denso. I didn't feel like messing around, and none of them were that expensive ($100 and down, if not significantly less--don't remember now).

I think your payback on replacing it is a few years as gas mileage goes up slightly. I think I got around 1 or almost 2 mpg more when I replaced mine. I think at the time I figured it took me a year or two to make it back in gas savings.

 

[supton]

I probably should pull the book and see what it's getting for mpg lately. We write down fillups but only sporadically check to see what it's getting.

 

[DGXR]

I don't have experience with those brands but with stuff like O2 sensors I usually stick with whatever the OEM installed at the factory. Same with MAF sensors, throttle bodies and any other emissions-related sensor. They are more expensive but they work better with the computer and generally last longer than the economy stuff. If the factory parts aren't available then I will read up on forums and make an educated guess as to what brand is the best value. And if I'm not planning to keep the car much longer then price becomes a much larger factor.

 

[qdeezie]

I am not 100% OEM on O2 sensors, but I will absolutely use a reputable brand or the aftermarket version of the brand that makes the OEM sensor. I don't have problems out of those. Brands that come to mind that I have used successfully are NTK, Bosch, Delphi and Denso. I tried Walker O2 sensors on my Ford Focus - both upstream and downstream - and the downstream would literally throw a code very time snow hit the ground. I kid you not. Every single time it would snow, the CEL would come on and it would be the downstream O2 sensor. I would always clear the code and the CEL would stay off until the next time it snowed. Then the upstream one went bad and stayed bad. I replaced both with the aftermarket brand that makes the OE part and have not thought about it since (it's been a few years).

Stay away from the cheap, economy brand O2 sensors. You'll chase your tail forever.

 

[Wolf359]

I am not 100% OEM on O2 sensors, but I will absolutely use a reputable brand or the aftermarket version of the brand that makes the OEM sensor. I don't have problems out of those. Brands that come to mind that I have used successfully are NTK, Bosch, Delphi and Denso. I tried Walker O2 sensors on my Ford Focus - both upstream and downstream - and the downstream would literally throw a code very time snow hit the ground. I kid you not. Every single time it would snow, the CEL would come on and it would be the downstream O2 sensor. I would always clear the code and the CEL would stay off until the next time it snowed. Then the upstream one went bad and stayed bad. I replaced both with the aftermarket brand that makes the OE part and have not thought about it since (it's been a few years).

Stay away from the cheap, economy brand O2 sensors. You'll chase your tail forever.

Why did you change the downstream sensors? They should last the life of the car. They only see the clean exhaust and when the upstream and downstream sensors have the same reading, it means your cats are toast which is what they're there to tell you. The upstream ones wear out from switching all the time and are exposed to the raw exhaust.

 

[qdeezie]

Why did you change the downstream sensors? They should last the life of the car. They only see the clean exhaust and when the upstream and downstream sensors have the same reading, it means your cats are toast which is what they're there to tell you. The upstream ones wear out from switching all the time and are exposed to the raw exhaust.

When I first bought the car, it was mechanically solid, but there was quite a bit of engine-related negligence (including lots of PCV and EGR negligence) by the previous owner(s). It was pretty bad. My assumption was this had likely been the case for years in judging by how everything looked.

In addition to repairing what all was neglected, I took the extra step to replace both the upstream and downstream O2s so that I wouldn't have to worry about them going bad later on. I didn't know if they were already damaged or had reduced functionality since the PCV system was blowing lots of oil before I repaired it. When I shined a light in the intake manifold to inspect it, it literally had a big puddle of oil in it before I removed it and deep cleaned it. My take was that the oil that contributed to this puddle inside the intake manifold was likely making its way through the exhaust and causing damage to the sensors.

 

[Bluestream]

I replaced both upstream O2s on my Ford explorer at 265KM. Gas mileage went up 20% highway, 10% city. Leaving them till they throw a code is a false economy

 

[Bluestream]

They may have sent you the wrong one.
It happened to my dad, he was on the phone with me about it and tried to convince him that it should fit properly.
After further investigation, he got the wrong part.
Called Amazon and ended up sending him the correct one and it worked.

It was the right one, just defective. Rockauto gave me credit

 

[Supersonic]

Walker are not generic even though they are sold as an economy line on Rock. When they first came out I read they use Denso or NTK elements and wire them in the USA. They offer OE based sensors.

More Information for WALKER PRODUCTS 25024440

www.rockauto.com

I have used these many times over the years and never had one fail or go erratic. Wire color code and length is correct and the connector is OE quality, not cheap chicom junk. I will buy a couple of them this week for a Subi without reservation.

Edit: $128 Walker and $280 OE

Thanks, just did the upstream bank 1 Toyota 3.3 with a Walker I found on eBay for $55, I figured it would be fine and has been for 2 weeks the code is gone, I gravitate for the cheaper unless it's hard to get at, this one isn't hard to get at taking the intake off up to the throttle body and having the right tools. Then I bought the cheapest set of all 4 off eBay to have extra's, although I would consider splurging for the Denso on the upstream in the future.