Novice looking for some oil help

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
189
Location
The cool green NW
"...getting ready to go to grad school." That means you are smart (I assume) unless, perhaps, we are talking about advanced study in the "fuzzy studies" realm, e.g. education, etc.

So...., do you disbelieve the Toyota automotive engineers? They arguably have/had been engineering and manufacturing the most durable and reliable vehicles generally available in the USA for some years. Doesn't that seem to indicate that they are competent to advise you regarding the lubricants that will best meet the requirements of their product?

If you really want to do it right, you should use Toyota oil and Toyota filters and the change schedule recommended in the owners manual that the Toyota company should have provided to you with the purchase of your vehicle. You should use the schedule for severe service e.g. towing, hot and dusty, frequent short trips, lots of stop-and-go etc.

If I were you, I would use Purolator filters and WalMart 15-40 HD/fleet/diesel oil; but the Toyota products are probably a slight bit better. Not enough for me to justify spending the extra bucks though. Chevron, Shell, Texaco, Mobil and many more make good products. It doesn't get cold enough in Florida to justify the expense of synthetic motor oil in my opinion. If you read closely the words on the oil company websites, you will find that they don't explicitly allege that their synthetics have cost efective advantages over conventional oils except in severe conditions of cold, heat, and loading e.g. towing.

But I wouldn't necessarily take the opinion I've expressed here, because I might be one of the numerous pseudo-scientific persons or perhaps even a "crank" that frequently toss in their $0.02 on this forum. Good luck with your new pickup.

By the way, my brother purchased a 1989 Toyota pickup new and drove it for 13 years/150,000 miles. He is what I would describe as "hard on his cars". The car sat outside all these years in Fresno, CA. He worked at a sand and gravel plant. It was, shall we say, a bit dusty around there. The sun shines brightly there virtually every day from April through October. It was 104 F the other day. The paint is still glossy and bright. I doubt he ever applied any polish/wax. It does not ratttle or squeak. It tracks true and tires wear evenly. The engine runs great except for a little preignition rattle--the source of which has so far been elusive. The Air-con cools just fine even in a dark-colored vehicle on the sunny 100F+ days. The air-con has never been serviced or needed service since new. He changes oil at home whenever he gets around to it. Hope you have similar good service from yours.

My $0.02
 
"I've ruled out synthetics as they are cost prohibitive for me, but I wouldn't mind spending an extra $.50/quart for better protection."

I it were mine and the owners manual did not dictate otherwise I would run Pennzoil 10w-30 year round. If they only specify 5w-30 I would run that in the Pennzoil brand and sleep like a baby at night. I would encourage you to use a Toyota filter is possible. I normally run oem (original equipment manufacture)filters on my vechicles. If the Toyota Filter is not readily avail, go with a Wix or a Purolator but stay away from Fram if possible. Welcome to the board. I came close to buying a truck just like that 2 months ago but my wife thought it was too small for my 6'2" frame. Can you look at my username and guess what I got instaed?
 
Look for a 5w-30 that meets Fords new for 2005 5w-30 spec WSS-M2C929-A. This seems to be the toughest 5w-30 spec out.

Here is a link which I think you might have already seen since you asked about Phillips66 products. Trop Arctic
Motorcraft oil is also Conoco/Phillips. I have seen both TA and MC at our Walmart. I don't know if either has this spec yet, but they will.
 
quote:

Originally posted by HerkyJim:
{snip}
If you really want to do it right, you should use Toyota oil and Toyota filters and the change schedule recommended in the owners manual that the Toyota company should have provided to you with the purchase of your vehicle. You should use the schedule for severe service e.g. towing, hot and dusty, frequent short trips, lots of stop-and-go etc.

If I were you, I would use Purolator filters and WalMart 15-40 HD/fleet/diesel oil; but the Toyota products are probably a slight bit better. Not enough for me to justify spending the extra bucks though. Chevron, Shell, Texaco, Mobil and many more make good products. It doesn't get cold enough in Florida to justify the expense of synthetic motor oil in my opinion. If you read closely the words on the oil company websites, you will find that they don't explicitly allege that their synthetics have cost efective advantages over conventional oils except in severe conditions of cold, heat, and loading e.g. towing.

But I wouldn't necessarily take the opinion I've expressed here, because I might be one of the numerous pseudo-scientific persons or perhaps even a "crank" that frequently toss in their $0.02 on this forum. Good luck with your new pickup.
{snip}
My $0.02


Hold on, aren't you contradicting yourself a bit here? On one hand, you're recommending the Toyota Motor oil, then later, the Walmart 15-40???

What's the basis for the recommendation and evaluation of the "Genuine Toyota Motor Oil"? As far as I know, based only on a couple of hearsay comments, this stuff is just rebottled Exxon Drive Clean. I got into this debate on another forum a couple months ago, and no one could produce any objective evidence to prove that there's anything special about GTMO. I am not suggesting it's bad stuff by any means, but I don't think there's anything from which we could conclude that it's special. I've eyeballed a bottle at the dealership, and it does not contain any representations except the usual vague crap about it being the "best choice for your Toyota" or some such similar malarky. Our VOA and UOA sections do not seem to have any GTMO results. Do you know of any?
 
This is so simple - sign up for the Pennzoil 250,000 mile, 10 year warranty - keep the truck well maintained and get on with your studies.
 
If you are keeping this ride as long as possible you can't go wrong with Mobil 1 5w30 at 6 month, 6000 mile intervals.

I would dump the factory oil at 2000 miles and run your first synthetic batch to a 4000 or 4 months, then run it the 6/6.

The Mobil with the filter will set you back $55 per year. The Castrol GTX will be $65 a year at 3 months, 3000 miles.

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 10500Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 91900 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
20 questions like that and you get 30 answers.
You really can't go too wrong following the Toyota manual. All modern oils will meet Toyotas specs but a little superstition regarding brands doesn't hurt. Toyota is about the most bulletproof vehicle being made, especially the trucks.
There is more to making a vehicle last a long time in addition to oil changes.. Best thing is to get the Service manual and spend some time under the hood and under the truck just looking around to see where every thing is. If the territory is familiar you'll be in a much better position to tell the Toyota repair guy what to look for if there is a problem and your less likely to get ripped off. Don't ever let a small problem not get fixed because it will cause something worse to happen later.
Unlike Many Domestic vehicles, genuine Toyota parts are definitely higher quality than aftermarket parts. When in doubt ,spend the extra bucks for the genuine article.(epecially if it's hard to get to.)
 
Toyota makes a good engine...I used Castrol and Delo400 every 3,000 miles OCI and went 210,000 mile until body went out. Best bet would be the Motorcraft 5w-30 as a synthetic/blend which will do very well. I am even considering using the Conoco blend as see it as a great price per ratio versus synthetic oil for someone on a budget, it would be a great alternative for a Toyota engine.
 
Regarding Mr. ekpolk's observations re my post:

"...really... do it right" is not what I do myself personally. I just do "right enough" (for me, all things considered, especially cost; since I am by nature a thrifty person, although I have been called a cheapskate on sevearl occasions. A young lady in a bar in Bangkok once even called me a "Cheap Charlie").

The basis for recommending Toyota products is the so-called "halo effect" i.e. they sell good cars; ergo, they sell good oil.

I've never seen persuasive evidence here or anywhere else that would lead me to conclude that one API SL or CH specification or whatever oil is "better" than another. What is "better" ?


Also I've never been good with acronyms...what is VOA, UOA, or GTMO? (BIG SMILE)

One man's humble opinion/$0.02
 
I recently purchased my 1st truck (2004 Toyota Tacoma V6) and for financial reasons I need it to last for a good long while (I'm a poor college student getting ready to go to grad school). I know how to perform basic car maintenance but I don't know a whole lot about the nuances of the different chemicals involved in car care. I've read every article on this board and on the cartalk boards but I still have a few questions.

My owner’s manual says my engine will hold 5.7 quarts of oil with the oil filter installed. I'm assuming this is the max-fill mark. Are you supposed to fill your engine to the max-fill mark on the dipstick, the min-fill mark, or somewhere in-between?

The owner’s manual calls for the use of 5W30 in all weather conditions. I live in central Florida where it will drop below freezing for maybe a week per year. After reading the posts on this board I get the impression that 5W30 lubricates slightly better than Wesson vegetable oil. Is this impression correct and if so what weight of oil should I use?

After reading your posts I'm inferring that dino oil is conventional oil that can be purchased anywhere. Am I right and what does dino stand for?

No one sells Phillips66 products in Florida (not even Walmart), what brand of oil should I use? I've ruled out synthetics as they are cost prohibitive for me, but I wouldn't mind spending an extra $.50/quart for better protection.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
welcome.gif


To avoid overfilling, start with five qts, run the engine a bit, turn it off and let it settle, then check and adjust accordingly. Being a bit over "full" won't hurt, but don't push that too far.

If it were my engine, and I was going to stick with the recommended 5w-30, I'd do short OCIs, or use M1. After it breaks in (somewhere past 5k or so) do a UOA to see if your choices are working out and adjust accordingly. No need, I don't think to analyze oil every time; use it to pick and confirm the success of whatever oil choice/use strategy you select.

"Dino" is short for dinosaur. It's a reference to traditional oils being ultimately derived from rotting plants dinosaur corpses. Yum, yum. This is as opposed to synthetics.

Who cares about Phillips particularly? Go over to the UOA section and peruse the results for a while. After making some comparison of reported results vs. your engine and how you expect to use it, then pick a particular oil. By the way, I had fantastic results in a V-6 Camry (similar engine) with what we're all calling "German Castrol" (the "Made in Germany" labeled version of Syntec 0w-30; search on "GC" and you'll get all you could need to know about it).
 
quote:

Originally posted by HerkyJim:



Also I've never been good with acronyms...what is VOA, UOA, or GTMO? (BIG SMILE)


Not sure what GTMO means but VOA stands for virgin oil analysis, UOA is used oil analysis.
 
Go To My Office?
Got Too Many Ostriches?
Gonna Tango in Maimi and Orlando?

Wait I got it:


Got Too Much Oil!!!
(No that can't be it. Theres no such thing as to much oil!)
 
I don't post often, but read the discussions frequently. You'll find much overanalysis and discussion of minutia.

I would be doing everything by the book. You bought a new vehicle for a reason, and I would trust the people who wrote the owners manual.If they say "use 5w30", then use it. Duh !

As one respondent stated, do the Pennzoil thing with the 250,000 mile guaranty and sleep well. Quaker State has something similar. And while Fram filters may not be your best choice, they meet warranty requirements for Toyota and all other "mainline" manufacturers.

Study hard, and enjoy your new ride.
 
quote:

Originally posted by oilguy3:
The owner’s manual calls for the use of 5W30 in all weather conditions. I live in central Florida where it will drop below freezing for maybe a week per year. After reading the posts on this board I get the impression that 5W30 lubricates slightly better than Wesson vegetable oil. Is this impression correct and if so what weight of oil should I use?



If you look at the actual specs of 5w-30 versus 10w-30, you will see really very little difference in operating viscosity and wear protection, provided you use a good 5w-30 oil. It seems to me that the advantage of a 5w-30 is in the start up as the lower viscosity oil will get to the top end and overhead cams more quickly.

I have wrestled with this issue, probably far more than is necessary, and have decided to run Kendall GT-1 full synthetic as the 5w-30 numbers look very good and at my advanced age I can probably afford it.

If you can find Kendall products where you are you might want to use their new 5w-30 synthetic blend, which I am told will not be cost prohibitive. It also meets the 5w-30 spec WSS-M2C929-A, which, as indicated in a previous post, is a tough standard. Penzoil's numbers also look very good, as do any number of the synthetics, like Mobil 1.

R/X: change your oil a lot using an API and "starburst" certified oil if required by the factory. Use a name brand or factory oil filter, and change your air filter frequently. Sleep well at night.

Best of luck.

Bob W.
 
oilguy3,

Some more advice . Never choose an oil soley on anothers results over in the UOA section . Too many variables and sometimes much needed info is left out like motor noise on start-up , topping off with a quart within the last 500 miles . Not saying on purpose , just much info left out to include idle time ect ect /

leanintoit posted some good advice , till that time comes , Motorcraft or Pennzoil is hard to beat .

I feel your pain , Phillips is hard to come by down south . Thats more for the rest of us
wink.gif


You also wrote:

After reading the posts on this board I get the impression that 5W30 lubricates slightly better than Wesson vegetable oil. Is this impression correct

Read all you can here but use hip waders
tongue.gif
Nothing as far from the truth . I would not recommend doing it time after time but a Turbocharged Subaru just went 7k miles on Pennzoil 5w-30 , the analysis looked good and it was a SM GF-4 oil w/o the label .

I think an oil like that would protect you Toyota very well if you take care in driving habits to go with it . Many Toyotas have gone far on lesser oils in the past plus you have a warranty to keep intact for a few years . Use what the maker says for now and sleep better if you have problems later . I've seen auto makers ask to use worse oils . 50wts through summer for Kia's ect


Next ?
tongue.gif


[ September 13, 2004, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
I would run Chevron Supream 10/30 do the 3000 changes with a good Pure one oil filter or a NAPA Gold filter for about 9000 miles then if you choose to go extended oil changes put in the Mobil one or German Castrol and run it 7500 miles . This seems to be the consenses of most posts. If you think the truck is doing a lot of stop and go driving use Castrol Syntec Blend also a winner for that type of driving thats what I would do.
tongue.gif
 
I would run conventional 10w-30 year round in that Toyota if it were mine and I was in Florida. Chevron Supreme or Havoline if you are on a fairly tight budget.
 
i agree with amkeer, synthetic wouldnt really break your budget. assuming youd run 3k intervals / 4x a year vs 6k intervals/ 2x a year
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom