Not Bypass, But Dual filter Remote Kit

Messages
8
Location
Mid-Missouri, USA
I have a question regarding the use of a Trans-Dapt Part#1222, dual-filter. I have the mount in front of the grill, and the hoses are routed through the front of the air intake with some drop going back towards the oil filter base. I am wondering if I should install a check valve going from the out of the spin-on adapter, or install my Ford racing adpter, that mounts my oil filter directly vertical, so as prevent sepage back into the oil pan. I haven't noticed a "drop" in starting oil pressure, but would there exist one with the current setup I have? I have also looked at moroso and canton check valves that can be used in my curent setup. If pics will help, let me know and I will post them. thank you again for looking! I have a 1992 f-150, I-6, 4.9L
 
Messages
348
Location
West Coast Florida
If I may ask....why are you adding the dual remote filter setup? My 93 I-6 has over 185K with cheapest filters and cheapo oil, doesn't use a drop and so far looks great, I will do a UOA next oil change to see what is going on. Just curious
 
Messages
18,449
Location
East of IGO
The 300 c.i. engines are one of the best engines ever made. Mine passed Calif smog with flying colors at 312,000 miles when it was sold.
 

timbersteel

Thread starter
Messages
8
Location
Mid-Missouri, USA
Well, a couple of years ago, I noticed the oil pan leaking, pin holes around the plug and the front, so I changed the pan. I noticed that inside of the pan, there were "welps" inside of the pan,and that at some point someone had removed the pan from the evident aftermarket gasket. My guess is that some "owner" had gotten this engine terribly hot at one or more times. My main bearing is also going as well. Everytime I start the motor I can hear it clacking near the rear of the oil pan. Also, I see the copper in the oil each time I do an oil change. Though, with the dual remote filter, I didn't notice the copper in the oil change. I need to drop the oil pan again sometime, when I'm not busy, it's not hot outside, and try to relpace and check the main bearings if possible.
 
Messages
39,806
Location
Pottstown, PA
If the setup isn't mounted too high, you should not have to install check valves. I had to on my jeep. They would drain forward and backward. If you're not hearing start up rattle, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

timbersteel

Thread starter
Messages
8
Location
Mid-Missouri, USA
Gary, by the way, what check valves did you use on your jeep? I mentioned earlier in this post about Moroso and Canton. The Canton check valve looked of a better grade than the Moroso, but I really haven't messed to much with check valves in the past. I will try to get pics of the setup sometime and Post. Thanks again.
 
Messages
39,806
Location
Pottstown, PA
It appears to be the temp/pressure ratings. They're both 316 stainless. One has a stainless ball check with Viton seat, the other appears to use a Teflon ball using the valve body as the seat.
 
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