"Nooks and Crannies" thin oil guys...

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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
This is going to be a very long thread...


Oh no, it's not. . .
Be nice with your almighty powers!
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OK, I will -- for now -- but unless someone can come up with something remotely relevant and other-than-nonsensical, it will be time for:
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In my case, it doesn't serve much purpose for me to ponder too long the virtues of thick vs. thin. If I want to give Chrysler (or whatever it becomes) no reason to void the lifetime warranty on my new Jeep, I'll be using 5W20, like it says in the manual, the service manual, and on the oil filler cap. Unless I change my mind.
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
This is going to be a very long thread...


Oh no, it's not. . .
Be nice with your almighty powers!
LOL.gif



OK, I will -- for now -- but unless someone can come up with something remotely relevant and other-than-nonsensical, it will be time for:
TL-APPLIED.jpg



crackmeup2.gif
You even have a picture... That's priceless!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
VVT (specifically Honda's implementation) has been around a LOT longer than 0w20 has.......


Does it matter now which came first, the chicken or the egg? Today, we have chickens and eggs. The Toyota VVT-i system is hydraulically actuated, and it's hydraulic fluid is hot motor oil, at the pressure and flow delivered to the rest of the engine from the oil pump. Two potential problems here. One, if you allow the oil to get dirty, well you can imagine. Two, it's designed upon an assumption that the hydraulic fluid used will be what the engineers expected it to be.

Would you feel comfortable boarding an airliner if you found out that the crew had decided that they knew better than Boeing's engineers what hyd fluid to use, and had replaced the factory fluid with one of their choosing?????????
 
Originally Posted By: MarkC
In my case, it doesn't serve much purpose for me to ponder too long the virtues of thick vs. thin. If I want to give Chrysler (or whatever it becomes) no reason to void the lifetime warranty on my new Jeep, I'll be using 5W20, like it says in the manual, the service manual, and on the oil filler cap. Unless I change my mind.


Chrysler has no problem recommending 5w30 for identical Jeep/Dodge engines sold in Europe.... http://www.telusplanet.net/~homac/CaliberCompassPatriot5w-30TSB.pdf
 
And I must ask, So what? The NA recomendation is 5w20. I don't live in Europe or Australia. I live in North America and 5w20 and 0w20 are proven here.
 
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
And I must ask, So what? The NA recomendation is 5w20. I don't live in Europe or Australia. I live in North America and 5w20 and 0w20 are proven here.
Them's fightin' words...
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(j/k)

I agree, there is nothing wrong with 5w20 and it probablly does get into all the "Nooks & Crannies".
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I own my two POV's outright. I use 5w20 but do have 5w30 in the strategic reserve(NAPA SyN sale got me). In reality I think all ILSAC rated oils are pretty close. But I think that 5w20 is pretty stout, stable oil. As long as oil is changed reasonably and the other maintenance items are not ignored the engine is of little worry in automotive longevity.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Can one of you enlighten me as to what these nooks and crannies inside an engine are? I see post after post referring to these things and I guess I'm not educated enough to know what they are. They must be very small, because only a 0w-20 can even reach them even though many bearing clearances are .002 or less. In fact I've never seen them in a teardown. Where should I start looking?



I can also claim that after working on engines for most of my life, I have yet to find those nooks and crannies. I need someone more educated and experienced than I to give me a lesson or two
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But seriously, I know that many people have been using thin oils with no problems to date. That is fine, but that is also not the argument here. The problem that I believe BuickGN is trying to pick at here is that some people have the belief that their engine can ONLY take thin oils. This is fundamentally wrong, and being an engineer, I simply don't understand that. A 0W20 is extremely thick at -40C. If an engine could only work correctly with a 9 cSt oil, then until that oil gets to 100C, the engine simply wouldn't work if that were true.

Also, the weights of oils at 100C are within a small spread (8-15 cSt) for 20, 30, and 40 weights. However, the weights of cold oils to hot oils are contained within a MUCH larger spread (55-120 cSt). At operating temps, you will not convince me (or any knowledgeable and experienced individual) that a hydraulically actuated solenoid will work with a 9 cSt fluid, but not with an 11 cSt fluid. The difference is so small, that you would be hard pressed to measure it let alone feel it in your engine.

Flowrates... JAG posted an article comparing 20, 30, and 40 weights for power and various other things. The article was not specifically discussing flowrates perse, but did measure them at an RPM near redline. This means that the oil pump would have been in full bypass, and theoretically, a thinner oil would yield more flow due to the bypass condition. And yes, there was a difference... It was in the range of decimal places! So yes, there is a small difference in flowrate - not much though. And of course, there is virtually NO difference in flowrate when the pump relief valve is not in bypass (such as low rpm cruising).

We have seen time and time again that engines recommending 20 weights here, take 30 and 40 weights elsewhere. YES - the 20 weights work fine! No argument there! But the 30's and 40's also work well - and one cannot argue that either, or we'd see engine failures of all kinds in Europe, the middle east, and Australia - which we don't.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Be more specific. Is that technically a nook or a cranny?

It's somewhere in between a nook and cranny... a nanny.
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk

Would you feel comfortable boarding an airliner if you found out that the crew had decided that they knew better than Boeing's engineers what hyd fluid to use, and had replaced the factory fluid with one of their choosing?????????


No more than I would having heart surgery performed by an eye doctor. Which is why i'm a big fan of using mfg approved oils.
At least as far as BMWs go.
 
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Originally Posted By: ekpolk

Would you feel comfortable boarding an airliner if you found out that the crew had decided that they knew better than Boeing's engineers what hyd fluid to use, and had replaced the factory fluid with one of their choosing?????????



Short answer: No!

But with all due respect, aerospace engineers do not recommend a different lubricant for the same aircraft that flies over different parts of the world. I mean, I understand the comparison you're trying to make here, but in reality, a car can have more than one approved grade of oil (sometimes many) given its geographical location. So which engineer is right? The one that spec'd it for a 20 weight in N.A., for a 30 weight in Europe, or for a 40 weight in Australia and the middle east???
 
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I liked those english muffins a lot.


(in the BITOG tradition - but it is my opinion
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)

Marketing hype! They get you to pay more for air space.
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I actually prefer the food service grade EM's.
 
Quote:
The problem that I believe BuickGN is trying to pick at here is that some people have the belief that their engine can ONLY take thin oils. This is fundamentally wrong, and being an engineer, I simply don't understand that. A 0W20 is extremely thick at -40C. If an engine could only work correctly with a 9 cSt oil, then until that oil gets to 100C, the engine simply wouldn't work if that were true.


Yeah....

-40F-100F ..all oils have to transition through being too thick. It's hard for most to see it. Thinner oils oil shorten the time to where they are the most alike when compared to heavier oils.

Quote:
Also, the weights of oils at 100C are within a small spread (8-15 cSt) for 20, 30, and 40 weights. However, the weights of cold oils to hot oils are contained within a MUCH larger spread (55-120 cSt). At operating temps, you will not convince me (or any knowledgeable and experienced individual) that a hydraulically actuated solenoid will work with a 9 cSt fluid, but not with an 11 cSt fluid. The difference is so small, that you would be hard pressed to measure it let alone feel it in your engine.


While I have some romance going on with thin oils right now (0w-10), I challenge every post that claims problems with VVT. I assert that if there are problems with VVT due to viscosity, the same issues will be present with the spec'd oils somewhere between the TEXAS BIG HEAT and the frozen tundraesque starting temps of our fine Canadian neighbors. I also counter that any such issues must be "time of operation" dependent when heavier oils are used. That is, a 5w-40 must only cause issues, if any at all, for a certain amount of operational time, and that the condition must, at some point, disappear.
 
This is an unfortunate discussion. On one hand, I see the point BGN is making -- there aren't any magical, secret nooks or crannies in an engine. On the other hand, there are some incredibly tight, small clearances in a modern engine. You might very well call the space in a main bearing a "nook" or "cranny". Same for such places as a very, very tight oil passage. The simple fact that is as you get down to the very small passages, the thicker the oil, the harder it will be for it to penetrate in.

Very rarely do I see the "assumption" that 80% or more of wear happens on startup challenged. Yet in a discussion like this, this "axiom" seems to vanish into thin air.

Wear happens on startup because thick cold oil has trouble penetrating into the spaces where it's supposed to do its job. Within the bounds of reason, the thinner the oil you use, the easier it will be for it to get where it's needed quickly.
 
Ekpolk,

There have been people here who have had better UOA's with the 20wt oils too. Both with Fuel Dilution because they are getting a better ring seal (Chrysler engines), and are getting lower metals in their UOA's because of the oil penetrating into the bearings etc. on cold start up.

Good information!
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Originally Posted By: ekpolk


Wear happens on startup because thick cold oil has trouble penetrating into the spaces where it's supposed to do its job. Within the bounds of reason, the thinner the oil you use, the easier it will be for it to get where it's needed quickly.


But do we know that as a fact? Look at one of the tightest clearances in the engine, the cam bearings. In my car it's in the neighborhood of .001" yet I've never had a problem with these particular bearings wearing.

I stand by my own observations that as long as the oil is the correct viscosity for the temperature, it gets to all parts nearly instantly.
 
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