Hi all,
I just found out that in KSA Toyota landcruiser has no DPF and no EGR due to problems that owners reported back in both 2018 and 2019
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/egr-delete-by-the-dealership.152756/
I even checked my 2020 LC200 and found that Toyota in KSA deleted both EGR and DPF as they do not want to be responsible for future maintenance cost.
Now the question, What are the things I should be aware of due to this two issues regarding to maintenance? As you may also aware that diesel contains high sulphur.
Two things, I have put catch can and every time I changed the oil, I drain almost 200 ml out of the catch can filter. I also have purchased a diesel pre-filter with 30 micron which has little glass bottle with drain valve to remove water contamination from the tank.
NO DPF nor EGR!!!!!!
- Thread starter momo
- Start date
Originally Posted by eljefino
The sulfuric acid from the fuel will wreck your oil a little faster, but typical quality diesel oil has decent buffering. Definite candidate for used oil analysis.
The EGR delete and cats shouldn't do too much to your engine or oil.
Does KSA do a reprogram of the ECU, or is there a mod chip installed?
That is my question, and of course, now do you want to "roll coal"? Hah
no DPF and no EGR means no blocked up intake. he engine internals will stay cleaner for loger and your pocket will thank you for the reduced maintenance bill.
use A3/B4 oil
Originally Posted by Olas
no DPF and no EGR means no blocked up intake. he engine internals will stay cleaner for loger and your pocket will thank you for the reduced maintenance bill.
use A3/B4 oil
Originally Posted by ZZman
Shamelessly stolen from the ACEA sequences published on their own website;
A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van
Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
E4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant
stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V
emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals
according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for
some EGR engines and some engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may
differ between engine manufacturers so driver manuals and/or dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.
Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further
provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel
engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe
conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for
engines without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction
systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so driver manuals and/or dealers
shall be consulted if in doubt.
So whilst the E rated oils are suitable for extremely long drain intervals as used by long distance truck drivers, the likelihood is that the oil will be changed long before it needs to be so the cost becomes artifically inflated.
A/B oils typically have a lower starting TBN prediciting shorter drain intervals but SAPS and HTHS are the same across the previsouly mentioned categories.
(Im assuming OP will do short drain intervals because of the amount of sand in the air and the sulphur in the fuel)
You could look at it the same as using Redline in a Geo Metro in so much as it is definitely not a bad thing, but you could have the same protection over the same oci for cheaper.
What are the high and low temps in KSA? What viscosity is appropriate for your climate?
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/5ofKGc7.jpg)
10/15w 40 is a good viscosity for the climate - A3/B4 for shorter drains or E7 for longer drains, but the main thing is air filtration. you should fit some kind of pre-filter over the air intake to help keep sand/dust etc out of the air supply. the air filter is the most important filter in the whole engine!
Originally Posted by Olas
10/15w 40 is a good viscosity for the climate - A3/B4 for shorter drains or E7 for longer drains, but the main thing is air filtration. you should fit some kind of pre-filter over the air intake to help keep sand/dust etc out of the air supply. the air filter is the most important filter in the whole engine!
Last edited:
Getting the intake up higher and out of your dust would definitely help. As has been mentioned, the air filter is THE most important filter on an engine regardless of where you are located. The absence of EGR and DPF is a definite plus. Will make your oil a lot cleaner.
Originally Posted by ZZman
would never remove them...
Something very unique to this part of the world is just how fine the particles of sand are in the air.
As someone who spent a lot of time looking into with "pre-filters", I can honestly say your best bet is to change the air filter regularly. In my case, it's every 5,000 km/3,000 miles. Anything beyond that, and you'll notice dust has already settled into your zip tube going to the throttle body.
Often, shops here will pull the air filter out, blow it out with compressed air and put it back in; the absolute worst thing you could ever do. No matter what you do, you will never get all the dust in the filter out, you simply loosen it. Blowing compressed air into it will only create smaller pores in the filter material, which will do you no good either. So the moment that engine fires up after a fresh oil change, the first thing going into the engine is going to be all the dust in the air filter loosened up with compressed air. Filters are cheap, some barely costing $30. They're worth the investment, and the time to replace. As is engine oil.
As far as pre-filters go, going back in time, German build tanks had filters using oil, known as an oil bath filter system used for many years even going back further. Some Mercedes-Benz diesels had a similar setup in the 1970s, where there is a non-replaceable mesh filter that percolates air through oil. It was messy, but effective. Given today's EFI systems with different sensors, I was reluctant to try this out on a system equipped with a MAF sensor, as well as the lack of space under the hood for a set up like this.
Although it may be a more viable option for the OP's diesel vehicle, despite being simple, it isn't going to be straightforward and may also cost a pretty decent penny, given lack of local resources. The OP's biggest drawback is the vague terms and conditions covering new vehicle warranties in the Middle East.
Unlike the United States, dealers can refuse warranty coverage for doing oil changes outside the dealership to installing aftermarket components (including air induction kits), even going as far as messing with the suspension or brakes. Given this isn't exactly a free market, you have no other dealerships you can go to; there's only one authorized distributor for any given brand in the country - i.e. a monopoly. The local Toyota dealership here, for instance, does not service any Toyota or Lexus vehicle not imported by them. Nothing much you can do, you just move on.
Originally Posted by momo
Originally Posted by Olas
10/15w 40 is a good viscosity for the climate - A3/B4 for shorter drains or E7 for longer drains, but the main thing is air filtration. you should fit some kind of pre-filter over the air intake to help keep sand/dust etc out of the air supply. the air filter is the most important filter in the whole engine!
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