Nissan says 2000 mile oil changes

Wow. So, you have resorted to name-calling? Such a professional.

First, I don't care how many companies you've worked for and how long. But since you brought it up, the fact that you have worked for so MANY and NO LONGER do tells me everything I need to know about your "knowledge." It is old-school thinking that needs to die. And you're wrong, euro manufacturers are not the only ones keeping 10,000 mile OCI's. Ford and Nissan off the top of my head based on the owners manuals as well as Toyota.

Go away now.
I am currently working at BMW, so you’re wrong. You are hard headed. All technicians know exactly what I’m saying with the severe service and they too don’t extend oil changes. 5,000 max. Also it says do not follow the oil life monitor in the manual. Also Toyota is a fixed system it isn’t even an oil life system it’s set to trigger at 10,000 miles same as VW. You are not in the business and see nothing we see. We see all these engines here at BMW of people that follow the 15,000 mile intervals. It’s not too smart. Stop being so god **** hardheaded and listen to people that actually work in the dealerships. We share knowledge to protect the consumers of what not to do. Not all techs are trying to **** people. Go to YouTube and watch technician channels, they say the same thing I’m saying, it’s not just a coincidence, stop thinking you know everything about services.
 
Way back in 1994, my Integra manual said to use 7,500 mile OCI's, except for severe conditions then do 3,750. They defined "severe" conditions as many short trips (<5 miles, or <10 miles below freezing), driving on rough or muddy roads, dusty conditions, extensive idling or low speed driving like deliveries, or towing. I fall into none of those categories. So my old 6K mile or 6 month OCI worked just fine. I only drive it 3K a year now so I just do annual OCI's.
 
Way back in 1994, my Integra manual said to use 7,500 mile OCI's, except for severe conditions then do 3,750. They defined "severe" conditions as many short trips (
Today’s battle is direct injection and direct injected turbo engines actually dilutes the oil with fuel. It’s the nature of these engines. So the protection falls off once fuel is introduced in to the crankcase. When you start extending these oil changes, you just keep filling it up with fuel to the point all protection is gone and you have a worn out engine.
 
Wow. So, you have resorted to name-calling? Such a professional.

First, I don't care how many companies you've worked for and how long. But since you brought it up, the fact that you have worked for so MANY of them tells me everything I need to know about your "knowledge." I wonder why so many...fired maybe for being an incompetent and/or rude? Left maybe because they all couldn't grasp your "knowledge" level? Either way, your thinking is old-school thinking that needs to die. And you're wrong, euro manufacturers are not the only ones keeping 10,000 mile OCI's. Ford and Nissan off the top of my head based on the owners manuals as well as Toyota.

Go away now.
Also to add I’m 39 years old, so I’m not old school thinking. It’s called seeing and knowing how engines work.
 
Today’s battle is direct injection and direct injected turbo engines actually dilutes the oil with fuel. It’s the nature of these engines. So the protection falls off once fuel is introduced in to the crankcase. When you start extending these oil changes, you just keep filling it up with fuel to the point all protection is gone and you have a worn out engine.
yeah, my wife's CX5 is the first and only GDI engine I've experienced. I had a UOA where they said I could try pushing the OCI to 10K miles, but I have no interest in that. I usually change it anywhere between 6K to 8K miles, using Mazda OEM high-moly 0w-20 oil.
 
yeah, my wife's CX5 is the first and only GDI engine I've experienced. I had a UOA where they said I could try pushing the OCI to 10K miles, but I have no interest in that. I usually change it anywhere between 6K to 8K miles, using Mazda OEM high-moly 0w-20 oil.
Those lab results don’t tell the full story of oil. That’s smart to not go to 10,000. The skyactiv engines are great, but do suffer from fuel dilution like the others. We recommended 5,000 mile intervals on them too.
 
Those lab results don’t tell the full story of oil. That’s smart to not go to 10,000. The skyactiv engines are great, but do suffer from fuel dilution like the others. We recommended 5,000 mile intervals on them too.
So I've had 6 UOA's done on that car, for the last 6 oil changes. Fuel dilution has always shown less than 0.5, and flashpoint always 395 to 405, with OCI's between 6,200 and 8K miles. There was one time I went 8,600 miles, and the flashpoint was down to 375 on that one sample.

It's coming up on 4K miles now since the last change, which the report found possible coolant contamination. I'm planning on having another lab check it, or possibly even both Blackstone and another lab, just to verify that there is actually an issue.
 
Zzz
So I've had 6 UOA's done on that car, for the last 6 oil changes. Fuel dilution has always shown less than 0.5, and flashpoint always 395 to 405, with OCI's between 6,200 and 8K miles. There was one time I went 8,600 miles, and the flashpoint was down to 375 on that one sample.

It's coming up on 4K miles now since the last change, which the report found possible coolant contamination. I'm planning on having another lab check it, or possibly even both Blackstone and another lab, just to verify that there is actually an issue.
don’t trust blackstone, several members on here say they don’t do a true fuel dilution test it’s only a measure of flashpoint. The potassium they are seeing from ‘coolant’ is in some oils.
 
Today’s battle is direct injection and direct injected turbo engines actually dilutes the oil with fuel. It’s the nature of these engines. So the protection falls off once fuel is introduced in to the crankcase. When you start extending these oil changes, you just keep filling it up with fuel to the point all protection is gone and you have a worn out engine.
Also, today’s engines have longer, more complex chain drives and DI - be it diesel or gas is naturally “dirty” - more soot load in the oil.

It’s worse in some engines for fuel dilution, like the Honda 1.5T for example.
 
Nothing wrong with Fahrvergugen working for different dealerships. Techs have to go where the money is. Most techs I know will leave a dealership if work slows down, and move to a faster paced and busier dealership where they can make money. Techs are straight commission.

Cars like the GT-R and Corvette are not your basic drive only to church on Sunday cars. They take a different kind've maintenance than a conservative and practical family hauler. I'd never go 10K on an oil change in something that high end. Like I said in my earlier post, those kid've cars are a different animal altogether. (y)
 
Starting to feel good about siphoning out oil every 4-5k. Really windy out here in Midwest, but a awesome tailwind rewarded me with almost 42mpg. Pays me back for the money I lost at casino south of Wichita.
 

Attachments

  • 20221103_163806.jpg
    20221103_163806.jpg
    156.7 KB · Views: 9
Nothing wrong with Fahrvergugen working for different dealerships. Techs have to go where the money is. Most techs I know will leave a dealership if work slows down, and move to a faster paced and busier dealership where they can make money. Techs are straight commission.

Cars like the GT-R and Corvette are not your basic drive only to church on Sunday cars. They take a different kind've maintenance than a conservative and practical family hauler. I'd never go 10K on an oil change in something that high end. Like I said in my earlier post, those kid've cars are a different animal altogether. (y)
I don’t like being stuck to one particular manufacturer. Learn everything about all manufacturers.
 


With GDI. Probably he’s right. Oil and a filter is dirt cheap. If you can’t afford 30-40 bucks for a cheap oil and a filter. You probably shouldn’t be driving an automobile I much rather have an oil change done on my car, more frequently than have oil and gas mixed together and not have a viscosity
 
I bought a Nissan Versa Note. Great engine but junk transmission. Didn't know it when I bought it the transmission was so awful. The engine was great though and I am sure would have lasted 300,000 miles. I changed the oil every 3000 miles with 5w30. Transmission went out at 120,000 miles. My wife insisted on not replacing it and I did agree with her. We went and bought a 2023 RAV4 non hybrid. Toyota says change oil at 10,000 miles. NO SIR! I will be changing sooner. Even a youtube mechanic who works is a Toyota Mechanic says he would NEVER leave oil in his personal Toyota for 10,000 miles. I have been doing it at 5,000 miles and watching the two videos makes me think I may be doing it sooner. I am hoping this will be the last car my wife and I buy. I am 73 and I see no reason this car can't last me long enough to reach that goal. If changing it every 3000 miles helps then I will be doing it. Oh, I still do my own oil changes.
 
Last edited:
Someone dragged back an oldie thread here, but 2000mi OCIs isn't a bad idea for Nissan's VQ35DD if you read up enough on them. Over at a Pathfinder board I frequent, there are a few threads with countless posters who've trashed their VQ35DD by going 5-7K miles between OCIs with the recommended 0w20. The engines were found choked with sludge. Some in as little as 40K miles.

Nissan has always made great engines IMO. This particular one has problems.
 
Also, today’s engines have longer, more complex chain drives and DI - be it diesel or gas is naturally “dirty” - more soot load in the oil.

It’s worse in some engines for fuel dilution, like the Honda 1.5T for example.
Absolutely correct, the Honda Certified Master Technician that services our CRV and Civic, both w/1.5t engines has had several discussions with me on this subject. Honda's MM is an algorithm, tells you nothing about actual oil condition. The CRV just turned 10k after 4 years, is almost exclusively short trips, gets changed twice a year with Mobil1 5W-30 EP and the Civic, which gets about 10-12k/yr gets Mobil1 0w20 EP between 3-4k intervals. I also do the CVT spill and fill every 30k. I'm well aware that a LOT of 1 5t crv's follow the MM, do 7.5k or more OCI's and somehow keep spinning along but I'd rather err on the side of being pro-active. We never do warm-up more than 2-3 minutes, just drive gently for a few miles. For whatever reason, the 1.5t is a very cool running engine and the CRV seems to be harder on oil, especially with dilution than any of my Civics, but the Civic gets a lot more highway miles. I generally never push any lubricant to it's limits.
 
Back
Top