Nissan Maxima 2005, Mobil1 0W40, 7500 OCI

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 7, 2005
Messages
335
Location
Maryland
Hi guys!
Just got a report from Blackstone. One more confirmation that VQ35 hates M1 EP oils, see lead improvements.
Honestly speaking, I am not impressed. UOA is sutable, but no more. Now I put Castrol Titanium 5W30 in my car, will see if it is better.

Let me know what do you think.
M1-0W40.gif
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
seems to like the 40 wt better than the 30's---next OA is going to be interesting, as Castrol is one of the lighter 30's



The Castrol Edge w/FST is not as thin as their previous 5w30. It is in the middle like most PCMO 5w30's so we will see.
 
Try the new SN EP. The SM wasn't that impressive. Don't know how the SN will hold up yet.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Try the new SN EP. The SM wasn't that impressive. Don't know how the SN will hold up yet.

No offense, buster, but, literally speaking, I would not like to fall into same pit twice. Actually, I am not sure that will use Mobil1 in this car any more. IMO, it is worth to get a chance to Castrol and Pennzoil.
 
What exactly are you trying to accomplish "comparing" these UOA's?

The only one that stands out is the 10w30 one because of the lead. And that could just be a particle streak.........
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What exactly are you trying to accomplish "comparing" these UOA's?

Same thing what other people do:
1. Find out if this or that oil works better than another;
2. Find out how long this or that oil can be used.

Or you want to say that any noticeable numbers are just "particle streak"? In this case what all UOA for?
 
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What exactly are you trying to accomplish "comparing" these UOA's?

Same thing what other people do:
1. Find out if this or that oil works better than another;
2. Find out how long this or that oil can be used.

Or you want to say that any noticeable numbers are just "particle streak"? In this case what all UOA for?


1. GM and Nissan engines are noted for showing higher metal numbers despite the fact that has nothing to do with actual engine longivity.

2. The M1 0-40 you used still has the capaticy to protect your engine for several thousand miles more than you ran.

3. For the average engine UOAs (the type you had performed) have some value to detect outside contanination like coolant, or excessive fuel, or dirt getting into the oil. That's about it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tig1
1. GM and Nissan engines are noted for showing higher metal numbers despite the fact that has nothing to do with actual engine longivity.

"Higher" has too wide meaning. Comparing to Honda Civic - I agree, wearing numbers higher, and this is normal. But when I see 4 times higher numbers with using oil comparing to another one, this oil is definitely worse than competitor.

Originally Posted By: tig1
2. The M1 0-40 you used still has the capaticy to protect your engine for several thousand miles more than you ran.

I can say same thing about ANY oil on a shelf. But this is not what I was looking for.

Originally Posted By: tig1
3. For the average engine UOAs (the type you had performed) have some value to detect outside contanination like coolant, or excessive fuel, or dirt getting into the oil. That's about it.

Are you insisting that TBN is worthless and wearing numbers are useless too? Or do I understood your "That's about it" incorrectly?
 
This set of data is puzzling on several levels. I won't get into that but I notice that silicon is high on all of the UOAs. The latest VOA of M1 0W-40 has only 7 PPM silicon. I'd look over the intake system and make sure there are no leaks and that a quality air filter that is well sealed is used.
 
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: tig1
1. GM and Nissan engines are noted for showing higher metal numbers despite the fact that has nothing to do with actual engine longivity.

"Higher" has too wide meaning. Comparing to Honda Civic - I agree, wearing numbers higher, and this is normal. But when I see 4 times higher numbers with using oil comparing to another one, this oil is definitely worse than competitor.

Originally Posted By: tig1
2. The M1 0-40 you used still has the capaticy to protect your engine for several thousand miles more than you ran.

I can say same thing about ANY oil on a shelf. But this is not what I was looking for.

Originally Posted By: tig1
3. For the average engine UOAs (the type you had performed) have some value to detect outside contanination like coolant, or excessive fuel, or dirt getting into the oil. That's about it.

Are you insisting that TBN is worthless and wearing numbers are useless too? Or do I understood your "That's about it" incorrectly?


No. The statement that the M1 0-40 has the capacity to protect you engine for several thousand more miles covered the TBN thing. You see we don't care what oil you use, but it does help to understand what simple UOAs you are paying for really tell about an oil.
 
Oddly enough, these comments about how UOAs are generally worthless, only seem to show up in any thread that could potentially depict M1 in a bad light. Just making an observation
whistle.gif
 
Nick R said:
Oddly enough, these comments about how UOAs are generally worthless, only seem to show up in any thread that could potentially depict M1 in a bad light. Just making an observation
whistle.gif
[/quot

Wortless? Wrong word. For the average engine, outside contamination is the worst thing that can happen to an engine regardless of what oil you use. UOAs are very valuable to detect that. As we know a few PPM differance in metals in OCIs is meaningless.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What exactly are you trying to accomplish "comparing" these UOA's?

Same thing what other people do:
1. Find out if this or that oil works better than another;
2. Find out how long this or that oil can be used.

Or you want to say that any noticeable numbers are just "particle streak"? In this case what all UOA for?


Well, they aren't what you are trying to use them for.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary

UOAs are a great tool in the Management of any machinery that uses liquid lubricants. Unfortunately, their real value is often misunderstood by those who contribute to BITOG.

Firstly, it is important to realize that you get what you pay for. The most common forms of UOA are limited in their scope. It is a case of if you pay more you get more. So my comments here relate primarily to the “simple” UOAs – the cornerstone of those appearing on BITOG

Secondly, it is easy to assume that by carrying out a UOA you will be able to determine how quickly the engine is wearing out. As well, if you change lubricant Brands you will be able to compare the wear metal uptake results and then make a balanced best lubricant choice to make your engine last longer.

Sadly that logic is seriously flawed.

Single pass (random) UOAs will provide some information regarding wear metals but unless you have a history of your engine’s performance up to around 1 million miles the results are simply that – UOA results! As an example a limit of 150ppm of Iron is a reality – after say 100k it means the lubricant should be changed and all is well. But what is the situation if you have 150ppm of Iron at 5k? Where would you look what would or could you do? So UOAs are really a diagnostic tool – one of many!

The other parts of the UOA Report will be much more valuable to you – it will tell you about the CONDITION of the lubricant and its suitability for further use. This will enable you to get the maximum safe use from the lubricant saving a valuable resource in the process.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oddly enough, these comments about how UOAs are generally worthless, only seem to show up in any thread that could potentially depict M1 in a bad light. Just making an observation
whistle.gif



I post them in any thread I see the tool being misused Nick. And I don't believe anybody has stated they are useless. They are a VERY useful tool when used as intended. It is when people try to draw conclusions based on data that is NOT intended to be construed to form said conclusions that we start down the path that this thread has headed.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
This set of data is puzzling on several levels. I won't get into that but I notice that silicon is high on all of the UOAs. The latest VOA of M1 0W-40 has only 7 PPM silicon. I'd look over the intake system and make sure there are no leaks and that a quality air filter that is well sealed is used.


Yup, high silicon, then elevated lead, then low silicon and low lead would indeed point to exactly what you are saying here.

But I mean the "proper" conclusion to draw here is that the oils are all junk and he needs to run VALAMSPENZLINE instead and then his engine will magically grown NEW metal, "wear" metals will drop to zero and he'll gain 400HP. A much more logical conclusion than something silly like his engine is ingesting dirt and it has caused a particle streak. How stupid of us......
 
I used my Maxima for hobby oil sampling because the VQ35DE is hard on oil. I got subpar from most M1's & good with M1 0W40. I got better results with plain old Castrol GTX 10W30 & 5W30. Dollar for dollar the Castrol GTX beat out most of the synthetics with the Castrol synthetics being marginally better. When my M1 0W40 stash is exhausted I am sticking to what is best for my money...GTX.
 
Originally Posted By: Radman
I got better results with plain old Castrol GTX 10W30 & 5W30. Dollar for dollar the Castrol GTX beat out most of the synthetics with the Castrol synthetics being marginally better. When my M1 0W40 stash is exhausted I am sticking to what is best for my money...GTX.

I agree, that using GTX could get better results, no doubts. But speaking about value of GTX, I definitely have them ;-)
Look, I have never seen 5 quarts of GTX + filter cheaper than $18. Mobil1 + filter costs me $28 (both were on sale in Advance Auto Parts). I would not use GTX for more that 5k miles. As you can see on this UOA, Mobil1 can easily go 9500 miles. So you need to double your expenses, right? You will spend $36 vs $28. It does not make any sense for me.
As I told above, I will not use M1 any more. Now I have Edge with Titanium that I bought for $33. I am not sure that it's UOAs will be worse than GTX. May be it is time to drop dinos?
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Have you considered Rotella T-Syn?

Yes, I did. Probably it is a good choice for a summer...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top