Newbie - suggestions for 5.3 vortec

[nanney]

Great site with lots of good info.

Just purchased a new 03 Tahoe (yes an 03). Just dumped the factory fill 5W30 at 831 miles. Would have left it in longer but the truck had a Feb 03 build date and I was a little worried about condensation.

Replaced the factory fill with Mobil Drive Clean 10W30. Two reasons. I live in mostly warm North Carolina and this is what the dealership puts in for oil changes. Their GM oil is Mobil 10W30 and it will probably go back there for regular changes.

Would like to go for a heavier oil as temps rarely if ever drop below 20F. Only problem is the owners manual recommends 5W30 and says nothing above 10W30 and nothing without the starburst symbol or you void the warranty.

I'm guessing a 5W40 or 15W40 would be the next progressively "heavier" weight multigrades. Correct???...

I'm guessing I'll have to use 10W30 until the warranty runs out. Any ideas?

 

[haley10]

I'd do a couple more 4K changes with the dealer's oil to wear it in.

Then I'd run Mobil 1 10W-30 and use the GM oil life monitor if you like. You can pick it up at Wal-Mart and still let the dealer change it and keep warranty, no problem.

I doubt you would ever need to, but if you do some extremely heavy towing, etc. and or have some consumption problems, you could switch to the 5W-40 SUV/Truck formula from Mobil, once the warranty is out.

 

[Chris B.]

Nice truck! I have an 03 5.3 Silverado and the way I broke mine in was I changed out the factorie oil at 500 miles again at 1,500 and at 3,000 I started on synthetic. My engine burns no oil and is quiet and smooth. Good luck and enjoy it!

 

[TooSlick]

I'd run the Royal Purple 10w-30, which is an API licensed formulation. RP provides excellent results in these GM Vortec engines and will give you less valvetrain wear than the other COTS synthetics I've seen. A number of NAPA stores now carry it or can order it for about $6.00/qt ....

I'd reset the oil monitor when it goes off and use a fixed, 7500 mile, oil/filter change interval. The AC Delco filters are fine ....

 

[PRRPILL]

I run the 10W-30 in our 2003 Suburban with the same motor. We put it in at 49 miles and the odo reads 17,000 now. We changed the factory fill, and again at 3,000 miles. Again at 12,000 miles. Due again at 20,000 miles. We use no oil, and the metals settled out at 2000 miles. Of course I live in Warm Louisiana. So I do not need the 5W-30. I run the K&N filter on the recommendation of the BITOG members. I also use a Magnetic Wrap on my filter to remove some of the fines. Works well.

 

[buster]

Amsoil 10w-30 gets my vote. Amsoil seems to do well in GM engines.

 

[TallPaul]

I believe you made a wise decision to go with a 10w30 and it is probably safest to stay within the mnfr recommendations. You probably have a real oil pressure gauge in your truck. If the pressure is good I would just stick with the 10w30.

 

[nanney]

Thanks for the info. By the way, what is a COTS synthetic?

 

[blsnelling]

I think, COTS = Commercial On The Shelf

 

[nanney]

Yep, Commercial off the shelf. TooSlick sent me a pm with the answer. I was thinking Can on the shelf, though I barely remember cans of oil. I'm guessing 20 or more years cans have been gone now.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

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Originally posted by TooSlick:
I'd run the Royal Purple 10w-30, which is an API licensed formulation. RP provides excellent results in these GM Vortec engines and will give you less valvetrain wear than the other COTS synthetics I've seen.

---

Have you seen valvetrain wear (or wear, noise, CSK, etc. for that matter) in GM Vortec engines running M1 15w-50?

Let's just say I'm very impressed...

M1 15w-50 is my favorite PCEO COTS oil, and the only one I will use.

Simple:
Maximum (well, great additive package and "thicker" viscosity...not overly "watered-down" by U.S. emissions-mileage regulations) engine protection = Maximum engine life.

Flows very well in cold temps. as well(I'd easily use it year-round in a KY-type climate)...a great deal better than the "15w" would make you think.

Fellow BITOG member Heyjay used M1 15w-50 in his 5.3 and reported GREAT results.

It's my belief that the only reason more people don't use it is because they are initially put off by the viscosity printed on the label ...put it in your small-block though and you might just be very surprised!

[ April 15, 2004, 02:10 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

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Originally posted by Jelly:
M1 15w-50 is my favorite PCEO COTS oil, and the only one I will use.

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Wow! Impressive oil. HTHS of 5.11. Viscosity of 17.4 makes it near the lower end of the SAE 50 range, or like a tad thicker than a heavy 40 wt. Pour point of -45C. I wonder what the MRV is? That was not listed on the Mobil site. This looks like year-round oil. So how cold can we run this stuff, 0F?

Since I came onto BITOG I weaned myself off of Rislone Engine Treatment, am doing UOAs, and am extending my OCIs. Next you guys are probably going to convince me on synthetic, then I'll have to get a bypass filter to do that justice. Oh boy, where will it end?

 

[Jelly]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul:
[QUOTE So how cold can we run this stuff, 0F?

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This past winter, we had one 0F day here in KY, and I was running Pennz. Long-Life 15w-40 in my 4.3L C1500 Chevy.

While it turned over very slowly, I had ABSOLUTELY no start-up noise, indicating that even if no fluid-film was present in the top-end during startup (had been sitting all night long...started up in the morning), the moly and heavy barrier additive package of the HDEO provided a lubricating film until a fluid film could be established. Most manuals, whether gas cars or diesel semis, rate 15w-40's down to 10-15F though for continual operation.

I'd have no problems whatsoever running M1 15w-50 to AT LEAST 0F.