newbie G35 synthetic question

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2
Location
CA
I'm pretty much new to performance cars. I have an oil question: Here's my situation. Live in Southern California, 60 to 90 degrees. Drive about 15,000 miles a year. about half freeway, half local. I want to be able to push the car abit. I have three questions 1) Do you recommend switching to synthetic oils 2) If so, at what mileage 3) If so, what brand/weight do you recommend? Thanks
 
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5,358
Location
Gone
[Welcome!] (1) Most emphatically yes! (2) 5000 miles or first factory recommended change interval (ask the dealer; if it came with synthetic as factory fill then, of course, keep on using it; otherwise at first factory change interval or 5000 miles whichever comes first (3) if you check around this site you will see that I am the SLX (aka German Castrol aka GC)-meister. If it agrees with the weight recommended in your owner's manual, SLX 0W30 (available at Autozone [although I think it has been a little tough to find in SoCal]); if 0W30 makes you nervous, I just made a trip to SoCal with temps in the desert at 100 degrees and it performed admirably in a 2.7T (twin turbo) Audi A6 at interstate speeds. If you can't find SLX, then I would use M1 0w40, again...if that agrees with your owner's manual recommendations (if it says 5w30 you can still use both recommended oils).
 
I own a 350Z same engine (more power [Smile] ) so I researched this myself. Most recommend not to go to synthetic until 10K miles (with the Nissan 3.5 V6 engine). Mobil 1 10w30 is one of the best oils for this engine per UOA, German Castrol 0w30 is also good but real hard to find. The Mobil 10w30 also meets what Nissan recommends for your temps and since you live in Calif. you can run it year round. I will still do 5K mile OCI with the Mobil 1. I did my first oil/filter change at the dealer with dino at 1200 miles, then again at 4000, and then 7000 and at 10000 I will go to Mobil 1. [ June 13, 2004, 07:46 PM: Message edited by: Pitbull ]
 
Messages
168
Location
St George, Utah
I have an 02 Maxima with the VQ35 engine and went to Mobil 1 at about 2,000 miles. At about 4,000 I changed to GC 0W30. I did a UOA at 7,600 with, at least to me, great results. Many of the VQ35 UOAs seem to show Fe in the 10 to 20 ppm range with M1 5W30. My raw Fe was 11 but the batch of GC I used starts with 9 so it was only about 2. At my short change intervals (six months-warranty) that meant 1 ppm/1k mi for iron. I'm now hooked on GC for this engine. It has never consumed any measurable amount of oil and I fill it exactly to the full mark. (4 1/2+ qts.)
 
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5,358
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Gone
Life rule # 348: even if a guy has the motor and has done the research, if another guy has the motor and recommends SLX, ya gotta go with the SLX...yeah I know...flip flop flip flop, but I gotta support my beloved green stuff...it is a enthusiastically self-imposed requirement. [Wink] [ June 13, 2004, 09:39 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 

newlifeca

Thread starter
Messages
2
Location
CA
Thanks for the info so far. I have only 800 miles. Is it good to wait to the recommended 3750 for the first change, or is earlier better? [ June 13, 2004, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: newlifeca ]
 
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5,358
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Gone
You must have been editing while I wrote. You have the advice above of an owner of your type of engine. Ask your dealer, but unless he tells you different, I'd add it when you do the 3750 change. My answer to your original email... It is Castrol synthetic motor oil produced in Germany and now imported into the US. It is a 0W30 and has an excellent reputation among some, maybe many, on this board. It was sold outside of North America under the name of Castrol SLX (we got into the mode of calling the US version German Castrol or "GC") and has now been upstaged outside the US by the Castrol RS line and a new long drain interval product called by a couple of names: Castrol DCO Topup and Castrol SLX LongTec (they are MB 229.5 rated). SLX is rated: API SL/CF; ACEA A3/B3 B4-98;VW 502.00, 505.00 and 503.01; BMW LONGLIFE-01; MB 229.1 and 229.3 and is Porsche Approved. It has gained an excellent reputation from Used Oil Analyses cited on this board and it has the side eccentricities of being green in color and smelling to some like German Gummi Bears. It is available at some Autozones around the US and at Walmart in Canada. Hope this catches you up. [ June 13, 2004, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
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9,427
Location
Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
Thread back from oblivion... Having found a decent deal on a G35, I took the fairly irrational step of trading in my 1.5 year-old Camry for one. Wow, this is a fantastic car and engine combo. It's essentially a sharp looking sedan body sitting atop a stretched 350Z platform. Even coming from a relatively powerful V-6 Camry (210hp/220ft-lb), this car's 260hp/260ft-lb, fed through the rear wheels, is downright intoxicating. I would like to know, however, how my car's VQ35 loses 27hp to the 350Z's VQ35. Earlier in the thread, Pitbull indicated that the consensus for this engine was 10k miles on dino before going syn. I've heard this before, but paid little attention, not then being a VQ owner. The O/M, incidentally, recommends a 1200 break-in driving interval, with chief limit being not to go over 4k rpm (very hard to live with, btw... [Wink] ). Pitbull, or any other VQ folks, can you tell me why so long before the change to syn? Finally (and maybe this Q should go in the filter section...), what's the deal with the stock oil filter on this car??? The thing is absolutely miniscule. It's the smallest one I've ever seen this side of a lawnmower. I doubt that the shell, if emptied out, could hold even four ounces of liquid. It reminds me more of a thimble than an oil filter. Are there any issues here, and what are the VQ people's thoughts on oversizing in a G35's tight engine room? [ August 05, 2004, 09:55 AM: Message edited by: ekpolk ]
 
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9,427
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Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
Oh yeah, one other thing. As an interesting counterpoint to the ages old "10w-40 is liquid evil" argument: the owner's manual for the 2004 Infiniti G35 recommends three oil vis grades, 5w-30, 10w-30, and yes you guessed it, 10w-40.
 
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2,569
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College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk: Oh yeah, one other thing. As an interesting counterpoint to the ages old "10w-40 is liquid evil" argument: the owner's manual for the 2004 Infiniti G35 recommends three oil vis grades, 5w-30, 10w-30, and yes you guessed it, 10w-40.
What's the OCI though?
 
Messages
9,427
Location
Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
quote:
Originally posted by Jelly:
quote:
Originally posted by ekpolk: Oh yeah, one other thing. As an interesting counterpoint to the ages old "10w-40 is liquid evil" argument: the owner's manual for the 2004 Infiniti G35 recommends three oil vis grades, 5w-30, 10w-30, and yes you guessed it, 10w-40.
What's the OCI though?

As my car only has 670 miles on it at the moment, I can't say I've torn into the maintenance schedule just yet. Interestingly, it has a "premium service" tier, which seems to correspond to most folks idea of a "severe service" schedule. The OCI for premium service is 3,750 miles. There are two other tiers, which I have not studied yet (shame on me... [Embarrassed] ). I have tentatively concluded that as soon as I can, I'll fall back on my GC or Mobil-1 strategy, do a couple 5k OCIs and then, depending upon what Terry tells me about my used oil, consider extending beyond that.
 
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413
Location
Marietta, GA
I own a 2k Maxima GLE with 58,000 miles. Pitbull is correct about waiting until 10,000 miles to go the synthetic route based on the maxima.org spreadsheet database. For the first 10k, dino (Chevron/Havoline, Castrol GTX, or Pennzoil). These engine seem to like Amsoil ASL 5w-30 if you do not mind ordering it. Otherwise, M1 10w-30 for off the shelf and maybe a quart of M1 15w-50 to thicken it and get some more ZDDP anti wear protection. As for filter, the NAPA (Wix) 1334 is a slightly oversized filter and the Amsoil SDF 20 is a good choice as well.
 
Messages
60
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
While on the topic of Nissan's VQ motors, I have a 2003 Nissan Murano as well. I am currently using Amsoil 5W-30 w/factory oil filter. Currently have 4,500 miles on the oil and plan on doing a UOA at 5,000 miles. Is it okay to use the factory oil filter for anything longer than 3,500 miles? When should I change it if it is okay to go past this?
 
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9,427
Location
Pensacola & Vero Beach FL
quote:
Originally posted by Dookie: While on the topic of Nissan's VQ motors, I have a 2003 Nissan Murano as well. I am currently using Amsoil 5W-30 w/factory oil filter. Currently have 4,500 miles on the oil and plan on doing a UOA at 5,000 miles. Is it okay to use the factory oil filter for anything longer than 3,500 miles? When should I change it if it is okay to go past this?
A number of the UOA posts I've found here on BITOG would seem to indicate so. That said, this OEM filter is just so small, I'm having a hard time getting comfortable with it. Yes, I know the engineers who designed it know what they're doing, but. . . For those of you who have not seen one, you could easily fit two VQ filters within a 12 oz soda can. The empty filter shell might hold all of 3 oz of liquid. It's that small. Anyone seen any indications of filter durability issues?
 
Messages
156
Location
Tampa, Florida
I use the M1-105 oversized filter on my 02 Maxima with no clearance issues. Don't know how much clearance there is for an oversized filter on the G35. The G35 forums can give you info on what they are using for their autos. Will be doing a UOA at 6K miles this month. Will see if the oversized filter was worth it. Pedro
 
Messages
138
Location
MD, USA
I also have a G35 (coupe) and I'm considering going to GC at around 9k miles. I live in MD, however, so it gets much colder in the winter. Would you guys still recommend GC or is it too thick for winter use?
 
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450
Location
Louisville, KY
I'm gonna put in my 2 cents as well. (Also researched and some of my own guesstimation). [Embarrassed] Currently breaking in a very new 350Z (3 days old, Enthusiast trim, 6 speed), currently at 285 miles (from 31). [Happy] I also heard from folks 8000-10000 miles before synthetic. I am trying to decide if it is real or an urban legend. [I dont know] So far I cant tell which for sure but will make a cautious compromise, as I LOVE THIS CAR!! [Cheers!] That much milage before syn seems exessive and as much hard driving as I plan I crave the superior stablity and film strenght of syns early in the engines life. [Wink] My first oil change I'll do at 1200 miles (at end of break in period, probaly to a good Dino. The dealer uses Pennzoil 5w-30 depending on the season I may stick with that or go with 10w-30 (I live in KY). Then 2500 miles later comes the factory interval oil change (3750 miles), still with a good Dino. Next one 3000 miles later also good Dino. Then I am at almost 7000 miles and likely mid summer. Then add GC or M1 0w-40. Fred.. [Smile] PS: Nissaninfiniticlub.com main page: http://nicoclub.com/zeromain
 
Messages
123
Location
Winder, GA
well... i use to be a nissan tech and i can say that Nissan has NO oil specs! if you use any dino's its your variable cam timing sprockets life. these things really need a free flowing viscosity at cool temps. in summer, feel free to use a syn 10w-40/50. I personally, would use a 0w-30 or a 0w-40 syn oil in this particular engine. The only engine that was in production unitl recently that I would recommend a dino is the KA24DE. that thing is bullet proof-PERIOD! no oi? no problem! no coolant? no problem! no maintenance? no problem!! anyways, that my opinion, take it for what its worth.
 
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8,756
Location
RI
KA24 family has a history of issues with the timing chain and tensioners. I use nothing but synth in my KA24DE. I switched to synthetic at around 500 miles; Did the same with a VG33 Xterra, a VG30 Maxima, 2 GA16 Sentras, a couple CA20s, and a bunch of other makes. Most of these also recieved their 1st mineral oil change after being driven home from the dealership(~30 miles). I never replaced an engine, never replaced a front/rear seal, never replaced a rocker cover or oil pan gasket, never had any engine failures....on these and many vehicles which accumulated usually around 200-300k miles before theft/total/tradein. I think that the whole 'must run xxK miles' for break-in is a farce!
 
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