New Vehicle....Break-in Oil?
- Thread starter AdmiralYoda
- Start date
I've always been a normal OCI from 0 miles and had several vehicles purchased new for 10+ years/over 200K (one of them) with no issues, excessive oil consumption, etc. It's a leftover thing from "the old days" and no longer necessary. This makes people feel good and if that's the case, you aren't hurting anything and by all means, it's your time/money/sleeping well at night. I always want to know though...so say 1.5K...why not 1.2K? or how about 500 miles? How does one determine when "all the metal shavings" (that are in the oil filter BTW and not continuously floating around) are all gone? Folks will often say in these threads "I do XYZ special oil change regimen on all my new cars they go ABC miles!" but consider there are likely many more folks that "just do my normal OCI from day one and my cars all go the same ABC miles". It's all feel good, nothing more in 2023 to do this.
In regards to the mileage question... On a 2015 4Runner it took a change at 700 miles and another at 1,500 miles to get rid of the visible glitter in the oil. Factory filter used each change. Professional engine builders dump the first run oil fairly quickly to rid these shavings, but those are non OEM applications where they don't have to worry about environmental tax credits, and each engine will be slightly different in how much wear-in shavings are produced. OEM manuals recommend easy driving for X amount of miles for break-in and due to oil conservation initiatives/guidelines they would never recommend in this day and age that oil be dumped early. Modern engines do not use any break-in oil from the factory, it is bulk contract oil.
The "shavings" are handled by the filter. So I'm still not clear on why this is an issue to just go 5K or whatever? If the shaving are a concern, I'd change it in the first 20 miles when most of that happens.
1000 mls, then every 5000 mls
good idea
don't miss your transmission and diff
waste
.
^^^based solely on nothing but my own reading on the subject indicating that the larger "shavings" (if there even are any) are generated shortly after the engine is started and in the first miles of driving/use. After that, wear metals drop off and mostly will be v. small particles that can be picked up in a UOA.
1000 miles and its gone
If you have "shavings' In your oil left behind from the block decking flycutter and mains cap align-boring
you engine is likely already doomed, You would have to perform a disassembly and clean the block and galleries and inspect bearing shells and journals
Did you watch what has happened in the recent past with Subaru and Hyundai when these steps were not adequately performed on the automated engine line?
I have had machining residue in new ODPE aircooled engines, but these were not pressure lubed and a couple of good, hot OC dumped the sparkles.
- Ken
After the shavings run through the oil pump and then rest of the engine when the oil filter bypass opens on start up and rapid wot runs.
Break-In what?
Just like the ones that did that before the first early oil change.
I like keeping the assembly lube in during the first 5k.
Bit I can see why people would choose either way. One side wants all those shavings out, and the other wants the lube in.
I would think that if it was beneficial to change the oil at 1k, the factory would say so.
Bit I can see why people would choose either way. One side wants all those shavings out, and the other wants the lube in.
I would think that if it was beneficial to change the oil at 1k, the factory would say so.
LAST UPDATE TO THE QUESTION!!
I enjoy working on my cars and don't mind wasting a couple bucks if some good may come of it. What do you guys think of "Break-In Additives"? Red-line makes an additive that is safe to add to any oil at any time. Using half the bottle it essentially boosts the Phosphorus by 763ppm and the Zinc by 920ppm.
https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive
I wonder if draining the OEM oil and replacing the filter ASAP to get rid of any metal shavings and then adding good oil and the Redline break-in additive would be beneficial in the long run.
Like I've mentioned I typically try to get 300k miles out of my vehicles. Anything I can do from day 1 to help that is not wasteful IMO, especially because I have fun doing it.! Thanks everyone!
I enjoy working on my cars and don't mind wasting a couple bucks if some good may come of it. What do you guys think of "Break-In Additives"? Red-line makes an additive that is safe to add to any oil at any time. Using half the bottle it essentially boosts the Phosphorus by 763ppm and the Zinc by 920ppm.
https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive
I wonder if draining the OEM oil and replacing the filter ASAP to get rid of any metal shavings and then adding good oil and the Redline break-in additive would be beneficial in the long run.
Like I've mentioned I typically try to get 300k miles out of my vehicles. Anything I can do from day 1 to help that is not wasteful IMO, especially because I have fun doing it.! Thanks everyone!
"Professional Engine Builders" and that is in quotes for the exact reason everyone's Uncle thinks they are one.
They use specific break in oil for cams and the like. It's dumped early because it is not suitable to run on the street and odds are they are tuning it at the same time. Thus excess fuel in crankcase and list goes on. I would not compare that to any mundane car bought from a dealer showroom. The early change has been a feel good myth for decades. It's feel good tactic which no measurable impact on consumer vehicle life.
No...no it's not.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
some do an early change and don’t post it because
1. they don’t know what the OEM put in
2. don’t want their decisions overworked here
3. have not owned a vehicle that consumes oil
4. don’t even want 30 micron metal in circulation
It’s similar to the vehicle break-in debate - think of brakes and all - not just an engine
1. they don’t know what the OEM put in
2. don’t want their decisions overworked here
3. have not owned a vehicle that consumes oil
4. don’t even want 30 micron metal in circulation
It’s similar to the vehicle break-in debate - think of brakes and all - not just an engine
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